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Old 07-14-2007, 11:32 PM   #3826
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That's a pretty easy question...I don't know. Haha. It's definitely better than having a screw come out, but perhaps a little permanent for some applications if the owner takes good care of the car.

Heat will help break down thread lock adhesive and make it easier to get the screw out. Try using a hot heat gun or hair drier, or touch the head of the screw with a soldering iron, to get the screw hot.
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Old 07-14-2007, 11:56 PM   #3827
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hello Aaron,

I just purchased a Losi 8 Truggy RTR (first rc car in over 10 years) and was wondering if you had any tune pipe upgrade recomendations. Also if there's any weakpoints in the RTR version that you think I should change.. thanks in advance

btw great thread
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Old 07-15-2007, 12:57 AM   #3828
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Try the Jammin' JP-1. Good power, and very durable. That's what I've run on those engines and it works great.

Your truck should hold up very well. Of course, if you do manage to damage something and there is a pro-kit part available for it, you can upgrade, but the truck is pretty solid out of the box.
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Old 07-15-2007, 07:51 AM   #3829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron View Post
That's a pretty easy question...I don't know. Haha. It's definitely better than having a screw come out, but perhaps a little permanent for some applications if the owner takes good care of the car.

Heat will help break down thread lock adhesive and make it easier to get the screw out. Try using a hot heat gun or hair drier, or touch the head of the screw with a soldering iron, to get the screw hot.
Yeah, I've used a heat gun, cigarette lighter, etc. (everything short of a cutting torch) and some of the screws that I've gotten a little too much on had to be slotted with a Dremel after stripping out the head.

Anyway, I was just curious if you new why they would do that...no big deal. I just don't see anything on the car that wouldn't hold with blue loctite. I've definitely learned my lessons about red and will only use it on 1/2"+ hardened bolts in the future where I can use a breaking bar
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Old 07-15-2007, 12:01 PM   #3830
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Haha. The red stuff is pretty tough. I'm sorry to hear that you've had a hard time with it, but I hope everything works out.
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:42 AM   #3831
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I've just read on LosiBk2.com that Team Losi are not sending a team to the worlds.


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Old 07-16-2007, 02:25 PM   #3832
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...

Last edited by g26er; 05-10-2010 at 05:05 PM.
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Old 07-16-2007, 02:57 PM   #3833
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Since I am new to nitro offroad my 8 rtr has already took a lot of abuse although it is only at its 3rd gallon. So I am wondering how to determine when it is the right time to get a new chassis and etc... and what are the necessary parts on the 8ight to look for wear and tear? I know parts in the drivetrain has to be replace often but again how to determine the right time?

Also, I am planning to wash the dirt off with water. Aside from the electronics and engine, what else should not be contacted by water?

Thank You
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Old 07-16-2007, 03:47 PM   #3834
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g26er - I don't know what pistons and oil come in the RTR. If you want to try the race roller setup, it's probably a good idea to just rebuild everything anyway. I'm pretty sure you gotta change the diff oil and other things as well.

I think that's how the swaybar sets work, it should be the same.

kmaheartless - The chassis will last quite a while. When the rear of the chassis is worn so thin that you could shave with the edge, that's when you should replace it...haha.

Actually, it might be a good idea to do it sooner than that, or you will wear out the pivot blocks too.

When the driveshaft joints get sloppy and the pins are worn out, it's a good idea to replace them. You can replace just the pins and get some more life out of the shafts.

I'm not a fan of cleaning these cars with water. If you're pulling the car apart into pieces, you can rinse stuff off in the sink but make sure you're not getting hinge pins, bearings, etc. wet and then not drying them off completely! For at-the-track cleaning, I suggest using WD-40 and an old toothbrush.
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Old 07-16-2007, 09:31 PM   #3835
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Thanks for the advice Mr. Waldron I qualified to a b-main at rc pro series race for the first time. Normally I'd have to try to get out of the d or c main. So I'm improving just 2-3 seconds off pace of faster drivers where i was about 10-15 seconds off pace before. Car flamed out on start of b-main so I'll have to use glo-plugs a limited amount of time then trash them like I learned to do with clutch bearings. Then the tires are next. Thanks again for the advice!
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:23 PM   #3836
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Not a problem, glad to hear that you're improving!
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:31 PM   #3837
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ahaha
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Old 07-16-2007, 11:32 PM   #3838
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Man, I must be getting old. I didn't even catch the "Mr.".

drrm...cut that out. NO "Mr. Waldron"!
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Old 07-17-2007, 08:51 AM   #3839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron View Post
Man, I must be getting old. I didn't even catch the "Mr.".

drrm...cut that out. NO "Mr. Waldron"!
HA!!!
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Old 07-17-2007, 09:43 AM   #3840
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I got called "Mr. " enough at FHR the other night to last me for a long time...haha.
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