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Old 05-19-2007, 06:05 AM   #3556
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You are in the ballpark but the rear is too soft. Try 35wt with the 55 piston in the rear. Your rear end is bouncing because the shocks are blowing straight through the travel. You could also try 27.5 wt with 56 pistons. Smaller piston holes give more high speed compression damping. It will feel similar on the bench but the car will be stiffer at speed.
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:45 AM   #3557
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Default Swaybars

Hey Aaron,Would you please striaghten all my guys out on the Swaybar issue......While out at the track yesterday a group of racers were looking over my Truggy.........A fellow racer grabed my swaybar an pronounced...."That thing is way too loose".......Another said it should be very tight!!!

Would you please set us striaght.........
I will print your reply and arm myself with it at the track.....
I have allways run mine in the middle...ie not to tight not to Loose.

Thank's
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Old 05-21-2007, 11:45 AM   #3558
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..Mr. Waldron... Should I run BowTies, Lugnutz and gladiators on my track.... lmao
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Old 05-21-2007, 02:33 PM   #3559
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Default need help w/ xxx-t hubs

Mr. Waldron,

I have a xxx-t rtr that needs a new hub carrier. I recently got both the 1 degree and 2 degree hubs, but can't tell them apart, and they got mixed together. My LHS said buy them both, one will work, but I cannot tell what the original was, nor which new one I should use [assuming I could tell the difference, and I can't] . Can you help?

What measurement is this measuring? Tow in, out, camber, something else?
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Old 05-21-2007, 02:42 PM   #3560
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I am not Aaron but I can help with this one. The measurement is toe in. A trick to finding out which is 0,1,or 2 is to put a long hinge pin or shock shaft through the hole. This long stright pin installed will help you identify if there is a toe in angle cut into the hub. This is the trick I know. Aaron may have others.
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Old 05-21-2007, 03:25 PM   #3561
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Casper, do you mean place the pin thru the 2 mounting holes, and then look at the outside face of the opening for the bearing to see if it is canted more towards the front of the vehicle? Is this something that is pretty apparent, or do I need to use some form of angle gauge? I assume the stock part then is probably 0 degree?

Thanks for the help!
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Old 05-21-2007, 03:31 PM   #3562
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No put a pin through the hinge pin hole so it stick out both ends. The Toe in is in the hinge pin hole. With the long pin sticking out you can see these small angles better. You should be able to compare (eyeball compare) the hinge pin angle looking to down on the hub and be able to tell if there is toe in on the hub.
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:18 PM   #3563
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Gotcha, now I see! I didn't even think of that. Thanks for the tip, it should be pretty easy to tell them apart now.

Cheers!
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:26 AM   #3564
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pink_sleeve - I haven't heard of any change, but it's possible. Does the material itself look like the other graphite parts, with more gray instead of a blacker plastic?

jbrow - Cut out the left half of the front windshield, both side windows, and much of the back, where the engine is. The faster the air can get out from inside the body, the better the truck will jump. If you don't cut out the passenger side window, the truck can jump off to one side.

losi8lunie - Just as Davidka said, running the rear end too soft will make the car kick as the chassis slaps and kicks the car over forward. While you were correct in trying silver springs with the lighter dampening, your track is likely too high speed for that setup to work.

Green springs with 55's and 30 wt. is not far off. I often run 32.5 with the same setup. If you find your car to still kick, try 56's with 27.5. Using smaller pistons with lighter oil is increasing 'pack', which is the shock's initial resistance to quick compressions.

Factory Seal - The swaybars on my cars always have a little bit of wiggle room. Cranking on the screws to hold them tightly would serve only to bind them up and stop the car from working correctly.

BSchorr - UGH. Haha.

swannco - Casper is right. Are they the Losi hubs or another company? There should be some molded identifying mark on the hub itself. For example, the Losi ones should have dots, 1 for 1 deg, 2 for 2 deg.
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Old 05-22-2007, 11:53 AM   #3565
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to get the 95mm or 96mm in the front of the 8ight the droop screws are all the way backed out . what would more downtravel in the front do? more steering high speed correct .
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Old 05-22-2007, 01:17 PM   #3566
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Yup!
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Old 05-22-2007, 02:15 PM   #3567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Yup!
so to correctly achieve more downtravel you would have to file down the chassis were the droop screws touch and run the rear shock bodies on the front correct . because if you just tried unscrewing the shock ends that would let the piston go up far enough to damage the bladders correct or no .
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:36 PM   #3568
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Well, you could unthread the bottom of the shock to get more downtravel and then use an external limiter to retain the correct amount of uptravel. Using a rear shock body on the front wouldn't be the correct way to go. Even then, you'd have to worry about the steering linkage working correctly and maximum downtravel, and the front dogbones coming out of the outdrives.

I don't think you will ever need more front downtravel than what the car has.
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:41 PM   #3569
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If the arms are hitting the chassis then making any mods to the shock will do nothing for downtravel. You have to mod the chassis or the arm first until the shock strokes out and the arm will not touch the chassis.
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Old 05-22-2007, 03:44 PM   #3570
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