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Old 04-27-2007, 02:37 AM   #3436
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I'm gone for a couple days and this thread blows up!

khanzie - I understand. My limited experience with the EZ-Start has been pretty good, but I can see the igniter system being a hassle. Getting an external glow igniter shouldn't be difficult, your local hobby store should have several on hand and can recommend one for you. I use a Dynamite one, works great.

party_wagon - All basic principles of physics still apply, haha.

Softer plastic is more forgiving, especially in the chassis but for all components. I haven't heard of specifically using a different shock tower, but stranger things have worked.

Adding a washer under the rear pivot block will alter anti-squat. In theory, adding anti-squat will stop the rear end up loading, essentially keeping more weight on the front of the truck and increasing on-power steering. However, this function of anti-squat will increase forward bite, which is the enemy of on-power steering, haha. It's something to mess with.

The block itself has 2 degrees of anti-squat built in. You can add shims under the rear of the block to decrease anti-squat.

I haven't heard anything about an EA3 chassis for the truck. I don't really do much electric racing or testing.

The CR steering rack alters the ackerman progression of the front wheels throughout the steering travel. I have heard of racers using the rack on their trucks with success; the rack itself should add steering (I believe especially on-power, but I could be wrong) which is why the rack was such an improvement to the 2wd buggy XXX. However, it may not always be the way to go, at least not without other changes to the truck to make it easier to drive. Trucks don't usually suffer from understeer as badly as buggies do, in part because of those big ol' front tires!

Hope that answers your questions. If not, let me know.

Horatio - 600 feet?! We're talking two football fields here. Some of the bigger tracks I've seen are a pretty good test of eyesight and you're never even close to 600 ft. away from the car from any point on the drivers' stand.

padailey - Weight will always make the truck easier to drive. More weight means a slower reacting truck, which translates into being easy to drive. Lighter, faster-reacting cars are not always better. There's no way your eyes/hands could keep up with what these cars are truly capable of.

If you're sold on trying to keep things lighter, soften up the truck to offset the lighter weight (the setups you're finding on Losi's website are based on a truck at normal weight). Try lighter shock oil and softer springs, especially in the rear. Start with small changes until you find something you're comfortable with.

drrm1223 - I used to run the Kyosho clutch on my old car, and the stock Jammin' clutch. On the Jammin' clutch I used three of the blue aluminum shoes with 1.1 springs, and on the Kyosho clutch, 2 carbon shoes and one aluminum shoe. I think it was...1.0 spring on the aluminum shoe and a 1.1 on the carbon? Don't remember exactly.

If your clutch is getting really hot and turning colors, it's slipping. While a little bit of slip is normal, it shouldn't be THAT bad. Make sure you're not spraying WD-40 or any cleaners on your clutch. Scuff up the inside of the clutch bell with some sandpaper to get rid of any residue. Check your shoes every once in a while to make sure they're not too worn, and remove any burrs (where the shoes mushroom over) from the corners of the shoes. And make sure the shoes rotate on the flywheel pins easily when the springs aren't attached.

If your clutch bearings have a lot of oil in them, they may leak out and cause the clutch to slip. Blast the bearings out really well and use a small amount of lube to make sure they're not bone dry.
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:25 AM   #3437
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I was also curious if you could inform me of what parts will make a losi truck bullet proof. I rarely break as it is, but I am going to be running 20 & 30 minute mains w/ a lipo brushless truck on a track that is often times blown out so things will happen. Is there anything other then running alum pivot blocks, rear alum axle carriers and mugen rod ends in the rear? What arms seem to be the most durable? Has anyone done experimenting with a more nitroish setup on an electric since there are much more powerful power plants available today then there were when these trucks were first released. I guess tried using some of the easy to change geometries that will actualy realy benefit an over powered truck.
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:24 PM   #3438
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The kit is pretty tough as it is. You could add aluminum to your heart's content but if you hit something hard enough, your truck is going to bend or break, period.

You may want to look into Lunsford's HD turnbuckles, and Losi's gray ballcups. Other than that, you shouldn't need much else. The front pivot block won't really break, most people run an aluminum one because of the extra weight. You could replace the front-rear pivot plate (confusing, I know) with an aluminum one. The rear hubs won't really break, so you could get away with holding off on those until you do damage one.

Electric motors have had more power for these applications than nitro motors and always will, so that's not the issue. The weight distribution, weight transfer, center of gravity, and roll centers of a nitro truck (like the AD2) are significantly different than an electric truck (like the MF2) so it's not as simple as copying a setup back and forth and having it work. The established MF2 setups you will find on the internet should be a good starting point for your truck regardless of power system.
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:39 PM   #3439
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It just makes me wonder because you often times see nitro trucks run Just as fast as electric trucks if not faster on the track. A slightly heavier truck with less power turning more laps, yeah I'm sure driving has something to do with it, but perhaps the platform has something to offer as well.
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Old 04-27-2007, 02:54 PM   #3440
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These cars are a lot more capable of physical performance than human hand-eye coordination is, haha. Tuning these cars for performance usually comes to the limit of what the driver is able to control and maintain a level of consistency, especially in off-road.

On a track that negates the advantages of an electric motor or a gas truck's usually soft suspension (to navigate bumps) modified electric truck and gas truck should be relatively close on lap times (when driven to their limits, of course).
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:28 PM   #3441
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If you take a track like HRH where it is smooth and high bite. The electric trucks typically maintain a couple .1's faster then gas trucks. The bottom end is stronger on a electric motor which is where I feel the advantage is.
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:40 PM   #3442
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Agreed, it definitely depends on the track. Although the gas truck and electric truck times are usually awful close at Hot Rod.
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:58 PM   #3443
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Hey Aaron,

What are the thin white o-rings that come in LOSA9103 (clutch nut +hardware) for my 8ight. Im fairly sure my kit didnt come with these parts.

Thanks!
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Old 04-27-2007, 05:05 PM   #3444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
These cars are a lot more capable of physical performance than human hand-eye coordination is, haha. Tuning these cars for performance usually comes to the limit of what the driver is able to control and maintain a level of consistency, especially in off-road.
This is very true. I don't know how many times I've said it and heard others (factory drivers even) say that the car is better than they are. I've been in that situation a number of times in touring car and off road. Last Sunday was a perfect example. The car was pretty good for that rough of a track and I choked big time!
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Old 04-27-2007, 05:25 PM   #3445
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beavis - The o-ring serves to shim the bearing away from the flywheel. It lets the bearing float a bit more than a regular shim. I've been running it this way lately, works really good.

Jon - I say that exact quote pretty much every weekend, haha. Doesn't matter which track, which car, which race.
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Old 04-27-2007, 06:20 PM   #3446
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Hey Aaron, you gonna do the Saturday Series?
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Old 04-27-2007, 06:56 PM   #3447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Agreed, it definitely depends on the track. Although the gas truck and electric truck times are usually awful close at Hot Rod.

I said .1 sec diff!
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:29 PM   #3448
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Hahaha. You're right, I suppose that's close enough.

My gas truck times are pretty much always faster than my electric times...HAHA.

Don - Of course! We're gonna spend the night in Hemet to cut an hour off our drive in the morning. Be there bright and early :-)
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:44 PM   #3449
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When are you going to come to N.C. w/ Adam and race The Farm 2?
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:07 AM   #3450
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Mr. Waldron have you ever ran a carb without an insert or would you recommend it? Also going either up or down in size on inserts how much do you change the high speed needle. I changed from a 8mm to a 9mm and had to richen the needle almost 1 full turn I was wondering if this was about right?
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