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Old 04-03-2007, 01:03 PM   #3361
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WHITESTER: Its a widely used practice for breaking in engines. The first person I ever heard of it referenced by was Rody Roem of RB. However, he might have gotten it from someone else before him...

Here is what he recommends for break in:

Quote:
Before you start to Break-in an engine on the bench, I suggest you cover the cooling-head with something, so the engine heats-up properly FOR ONE TANK at idle (without the cover the engine will stay too cold).

Then start the engine and let it run rich at full throttle with or without the cover (depending on temp):
2-tanks at about 80°C.
Then 2 more tanks at 90°C.
Then 1 more tank at 100°C.

After this your engine is almost run-in, however you need to finish the rest of the Break-in in the car for about 2 more tanks tuning your needles for max power and you are then ready to go.

With the engine at full-throttle, you are sure that the idle needle is not in front of the spray bar, so you are running the engine really on the setting of the main-needle and you’re also sure the engine will run rich. Also more fuel/air will go through the engine at full throttle so there’s better lubrication.
DON’T FORGET TO COOL-OFF YOUR ENGINE COMPLETELY AFTER EVERY TANK.
Rody Roem
RB Concept Engines
and here is what Andrea Rossi from Sirio says for break in:

Quote:
1.- One (1) tank in the bench at WOT with very rich setting of HSN, avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK
3.- For 20% Nitro, use .20 head shim and N° 7 Glow plug.

After that, the engine will give more power every new tank.

Which means that Breaking-In Sirios, should be done with more or less 300 to 500cc of fuel.
Andrea Rossi
Star Motor Corp.
And this is what Josh Cyrul says from Kyosho:

Quote:
In the area of engine break-in, there are several different procedures that have been used over the years. Different manufactures, top drivers, and hobby store experts all vary in their opinion as to which is best. Over the past 10+ years of nitro racing I have found this procedure to give me good results in both areas of on-track performance as well as reliability.
Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.
Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.
The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.
This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!
Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul


So as you can see, Aaron's method is just a different version of these priciple ideas. If you want more technical info on WHY this method is preferred by some, I can post that too...
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Old 04-03-2007, 11:06 PM   #3362
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aaron.. is it true.. placing more shim can make the engine more relax and smooth.. also the engine can last longer since not very much stress on conrod, crankshaft, piston pin, bearing.. is it..
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Old 04-05-2007, 02:10 PM   #3363
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Buurrppp!
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Old 04-06-2007, 04:38 AM   #3364
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killer89

Thanks for all that info. I appreciate your effort.
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Old 04-07-2007, 07:14 AM   #3365
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Aaron,I was just wondering how the RACIN is going ?
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Old 04-08-2007, 02:38 AM   #3366
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Mr Waldron what type of clutch shoes do you use ? aluminum or composite ? Any benefits between the two. Also do you run a .28 on your truggy?

Last edited by drrm123; 04-08-2007 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 04-09-2007, 04:58 PM   #3367
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I'm really sorry everyone. I was on vacation for the last week and unable to get to a computer (not that I wanted to get on a computer, haha).

WHITESTER - I think the main idea behind running the engine very rich, is to allow the parts to cycle through and break in together, with lots of lubrication.

There are plenty of theories about breaking in engines. Many racers and engine tuners (companies included) have developed habits that work well, to each his own. There's not really a "wrong" way to do it.

M2 Driver - I use an Airtronics 94360 for steering, and either a 94737 (discontinued) or 94452 for throttle. I'm not sponsored by Airtronics, I've just got in the habit of using their equipment. There are plenty of servos out there that are up to the task.

Losi makes a starter box that's perfect for the XXX-NT trucks, even comes pre-aligned for the NT chassis.

arghh - A higher head clearance can help smooth out bottom end and increase top end, you are correct. I cannot vouch for an increase in engine life though, especially as the engine could potentially reach higher RPM.

Factory Seal - This year has gone really well. I was in the A-main in buggy at the nitro challenge (B in gas truck), then bumped into the A in gas truck at Silver State and made the B in buggy, as well as my first race in truggy. I just finished 4th at the RCX Supercross a couple weeks ago in gas truck. Next week is the U.S. Gas Champs at Sun Valley Speedway and I'm really excited.

drrm - I've been running the stock shoes in both my 8IGHT buggy and 8IGHT-T. The way I've always understood clutch engagement, is that the carbon shoes do the gripping, while the aluminum shoes clean the carbon build-up from the bell. This is how it was explained to me a couple years ago, by a very well-known world champion (and not a teammate!).

Just like engine break-in (haha), there are plenty of different theories regarding clutch setup. What may work for some, may not for others.

I run a .21 in my truggy, the Trinity Platinum Adam Drake Modified .21. It's got plenty of pull to get the big truck moving, and gets better gas mileage than a .28.
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:09 PM   #3368
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im looking for a big block for my terra crusher. it weighs 13 pounds so it needs a lot of power to get it moving fast and hard. i was thinking the LRP spec.3 .28 truggy engine. is this any good?

and i want to put a single servo onto my revo to save space. the ones on it now have 80 oz-in of torque, so i was thinking any high torque servo with atleast 200oz of torque would do good. what are some recomendations for very high torque servos?
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Old 04-09-2007, 05:42 PM   #3369
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Like my last post said, I use Airtronics stuff. I run the 359 in my 8IGHT and 8IGHT-T and it works great. Hitec has some very torquey servos, one I think rated at 333 oz.-in. so that might be something you want to look at (I think it's the 5995?).

I don't have any experience with the LRP engines. Trinity's Platinum .28 runs very well. As well, the Novarossi 528X and the O.S. VG .30 should get your big truck moving in a hurry!
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:03 PM   #3370
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thanks. id really like to spend as little as possible on a new engine and the lrp is at a great price. ive heard its a lot like the novarossi engines
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:19 PM   #3371
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Streetracer, the LRP .28 version 3 engines are great. Good luck finding one. Another made by SH worth looking at is the Sh .28 P6 Prospec. The 528 XR will get anything moving fast-too fast for most guys frankly.


For a Revo steering servo the Ace Digital #DS1015 with 200oz. inches/.10 with 6 volts is all you'll ever need. Other servos that claim the same specs (Airtronics) are nowhere near as strong.
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:21 PM   #3372
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Also consider the Losi Mach 427 engine. My experiences with those engines have always been impressive, with great power and very reliable!
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:39 PM   #3373
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hey there streetracer i know of two local racers that have the lrp .28 and they both scream i have some pretty badass engines myself , am very knowledgable about big block engines, a great tuner and am a local fast guy . very impressive for the price , just watch the bearings on em (not high quality like a novarossi )
later , Monty
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Old 04-09-2007, 07:02 PM   #3374
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yeah ive heard nothing but good things about the lrp engines and i can replace the bearings with nicer ones right off if i need too. thanks guys.
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Old 04-09-2007, 07:11 PM   #3375
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Aaron sound's to me your having FUN........That's what it's all about!

I would wish you good luck at the Gas Champs......At your level im sure there's not much luck involved........

So i will leave you with this..........

Take it to them at the Gas Champ's........Just relax and open up that Box of Skillz you are toten around!! LOL!!

Later.
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