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Old 03-08-2007, 09:29 PM   #3226
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Truhe ran a .21 in his truck; Travis was running a Novarossi .28.

The extra grunt of a .28 won't necessarily help you get around the track any faster than you would with a good .21, and you'll get much better fuel mileage with the smaller motor.

I have my truck and hope to put some time on it this weekend, I can't wait!
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Old 03-08-2007, 09:49 PM   #3227
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You going to Revelation Saturday? I promise I won't puss out this week.
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Old 03-09-2007, 12:54 AM   #3228
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Haha, I'm not sure. I gotta work on shaking my cars down for Vegas and I'm not sure I want to do that at Revelation...haha.

Don't be surprised if I'm not there.
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Old 03-09-2007, 06:03 PM   #3229
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Hey Aaron im in the Atlanta area so forgive me if this may be a crazy question but... WHERE IS KINWALD Is he running the 8IGHT? Is he using Platnium engines???? Does anyone have any pics or vids?? Has the Dirtinator been put to rest?????
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Old 03-10-2007, 01:45 AM   #3230
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Bill - Brian's still around, but I don't know how much he is racing anymore. He's no longer with Losi (and I don't know what other sponsors he has anymore, Trinity, Novak, etc.) but he signed with X-Factory to promote their cars.

I'm not sure what his plans are, but I wish him all the best. He's a great guy and had one of the most amazing careers in R/C history.
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Old 03-10-2007, 08:56 PM   #3231
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well that explains why there was no XXXBK3....
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Old 03-10-2007, 09:36 PM   #3232
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I took apart my Co27 for cleaning today and saw that it has a slighty loose wind. It still runs but I suspect that it causes some performance loss. Can I glue it back down or is the motor shot?
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Old 03-10-2007, 11:11 PM   #3233
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I suppose you could try to glue it back down, it's not like you're going to make it any worse! Is the solder joint still tight? I can't imagine the wire just loosened up like that?
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Old 03-11-2007, 03:24 AM   #3234
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What are you asking this Gasshole about electric motors for? J/K Aaron. I'm one of those gasssholes now too.

Shifting a wind isn't all that uncommon. Especially in modified on road. But it can happen on any motor. You can probably run it still. (I wouldn't glue it down. That could throw it way off balance.) But it's not going to be at it's best. Don't be surprised if it ends up throwing that wind soon.

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Old 03-11-2007, 07:52 AM   #3235
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Thanks guys. It's disappointing that the wires came loose like this on a motor that's only about 4 weekends old. I took it apart to skim the com for the first time and saw the problem. I've never had a stock motor come apart like this before.
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Old 03-11-2007, 09:41 AM   #3236
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Stock motors don't have that happen too much with the relatively low RPM. You should see some of the failures we've had with 7 ad 8 turns in a TC.
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Old 03-11-2007, 11:24 PM   #3237
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Is the Dynamite Platinum .053 and JP2 the same kind of pipe ? just whondering, it looks like the finnish on the JP2 is better than on the Dynamite.

And what % fuel and plugs is recomended for the Sportwerks .26v2?
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Old 03-12-2007, 06:51 AM   #3238
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Swede -
The 053 and the JP-2 are completely different pipes. The cones are shaped differently and will provide differing characteristics. The 053 will be smoother and have max power in your mid to upper throttle and the JP-2 will have a little more on the top end. The JP-2 can be had in a hard anodize finish. It cost about $30 more but is still a good pipe. Unless the track is completly huge I would go with a JP-3 instead. I would run a JP-2 on a very large track.

Run good 30% in the motor with a MC-9 (cold) or a MC-8 (medium) plug. Big motors like colder plugs that will stay lit.

Hope this helps.
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Old 03-12-2007, 07:27 AM   #3239
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getting onto the pipe subject, id like to put a new pipe onto my revo. i currently have a RD Logics hollow racing pipe but would like something else. something a little quieter maybe. what is one of the best pipes that is tuned for more initial torque. my revo has enough speed already, and id really like to get some more torque out of it too. what is a good pipe to add torque and keep the top speed?
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Old 03-12-2007, 11:29 AM   #3240
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Post It has now reached a point where.....

other people in my local club are starting to think I'm making all this up.

It certainly seems like customer service isn't something they seem to care about, really what else can I think at this stage considering that my email has been read but not replied to.

For the heck of it here is what I sent (edited to fix a typo I just noticed):

Thank you for replying.

Rather than go into a long winded story I'll just list what was wrong/missing
from my kits as I progressed through the construction.....

Step A-04

The shock tower holes and the holes molded in the front bulk head do not line
up. I have checked both bulkheads in the two kits and they are the same. As
the bulkhead faces you the right hand side with the shock tower holes is thicker
than the left thereby putting them out of alignment as they are not on the same
plane.

Once I filed the surface to the same thickness the tower holes still did not
line up properly due to one of the holes in the carbon fibre being out of
alignment. I got it to fit by squeezing the shock tower ends together but as I
was putting in the screws this resulted in so much extra effort being required
my 1/16th allen wrench tip snapped.


Step A-06

Only half the amount of 'foam things' required were provided so I had to raid
the second kit (which is of course now short of foam things).

Step C-02

1 x A9941 axel spacer missing from the kit I decided to build so again I had to
raid the other kit (so that again is now short the same part).

Step D-01

No clear diff grease included in either kit (I did have some stealth diff lube
handy but that's not the point I'm sure you can see).

The carbide diff balls were bad from the start, after trying several times to
get a smooth diff action I came to the conclusion it was one or more of the diff
balls. As I could not tell which ones it was I swapped them all for some
Irrgang (sp) stainless ones I have and the diff action was as smooth as I could
ever want.

Gear box casing holes do not line up properly

I had to get someone to machine out the motor plate slot because I couldn't get
a stock 540 motor to fit.

The hole in the top shaft that the long set screw goes into is not straight and
the set screw has a definate wobble to it.

Step D-05

The long screw that goes through the rear bulkhead/shock tower and gear box
before going into the motor plate wouldn't fit because one of the tower slots it
passes through was not deep enough (approx 1.5mm out of alignment).

The transmission itself would not install once I took care of the above problem
because the leading edge of the motor plate was hitting the shock tower because
the 90 degree bend at the point where they come together was molded incorrectly.
It took some careful time (and I must say fraustrating) consuming work to get it
to fit. The same part in the second kit will also require the same work.

Step E-01

Two of the four A5015 shock cartridges had threads molded so badly to the point
they would not screw in at all (you can guess where I had to get the other two
from).

There are no A5015 spacers in either kit so I had to use more smaller ones
(making them slightly too thick) and sand one of them down to get the required
size.

Step F-01

The holes in the bottom of the chassis for the rear clip do not line up with the
holes in the rear clip itself (well only one doesn't but one is enough to make
it impossible to put it on without what I would call extreme force). The one
hole is 1/2 mm out of alignment.

And finally

The right front wheel wont fit on because the hole on the inside of the spindle
(A1122) has not been molded deep enough for the bearing. This results in the
screw not protruding from the wheel with enough thread to get the nut to stay
on. I have checked the same part in the other kit and it two has the same
problem.

Although most of these problems have a solution I can work around (a longer
screw for the front axel for example) I believe they fall into the category of
"but I shouldn't have to" especially for a kit that is supposed to be hi-end.

I have to say I am very surprized at the issues I've had with this kit
considering as I used to race a JRx2 back in the early 90's and this stuff just
never happened.

Edit: Oops the allen wrench size isn't right, my bad, but you can figure out what size I meant, at least it's not as bad as the typo I corrected lol.

Last edited by Mabuchi540; 03-12-2007 at 12:52 PM.
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