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Old 03-05-2007, 10:39 AM   #3196
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Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Mike - The only thing I was nervous about, was getting crashed into or running into someone. To be honest, I didn't know that you were ahead of me or where you were on the track, haha.

At least if you ran a Losi car, you could jump the left side double, and wouldn't have to pretend your car was an 8IGHT anymore, haha!

jfc - It's not news really, just a local race! Adam had lots of bad luck with slower cars, had a bent shock shaft, and was really getting beat on badly.
yeah i know all the pro guys dont pay att to the local fast guys with 0 sponsers but i just got my losi 8 done today maybe you will notice me now that i am run losi 8, and not saying your not honest but you said you notice something wrong with my car on the last lap,i was the brightest car out there flourecent orange(i ran out of gas yeah i went in for gas for a splash but wasnt enough)...........still fun racing next sat at rev???
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Old 03-05-2007, 11:57 AM   #3197
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jfc - Yeah, I know, but I'd like there to be mention that Adam's car was quite wounded. I can't imagine I would've beat him otherwise.

nobike - Yeah, I don't notice you...just talked with you in the pits forever, haha. I think you'll like the new car a lot, it will get better and better for the first gallon as everything breaks in.

I'm not sure where we'll be this weekend.
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Old 03-05-2007, 01:33 PM   #3198
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I am not sure if the is the right thread for this post but I need help with a problem I got the buggy setup just the way I like it but I had to tighten up the front sway bay and way loosen the rear I like to leave them neutral so I can adjust them before the main if need to,,,, so do bring the sway bars back to the original position and adjust camber for more rear traction or is there a better way to get a little more on power steering and a little less of the windshield wiper affect. Thanks

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Old 03-05-2007, 05:18 PM   #3199
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Hi just interested on some info about putting a xxxt- tranny in a mf2 with the xxx-cr new rear hubs and still being able to keep the same wheel base is this possible? or just somthing ridiculous to try? any input would help thanks alot .
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Old 03-05-2007, 07:17 PM   #3200
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J. Wright - You can go to 5k oil in the center diff (like someone mentioned on another thread). I don't think that tweaking your swaybars like that is a problem, as pretty much any other setup change is going to alter the balance of the car.
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Old 03-05-2007, 07:39 PM   #3201
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Quote:
J. Wright - You can go to 5k oil in the center diff (like someone mentioned on another thread). I don't think that tweaking your swaybars like that is a problem, as pretty much any other setup change is going to alter the balance of the car.
Thanks I'll try it

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Old 03-05-2007, 07:59 PM   #3202
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Do you know if the drake engine is pre-broke in?The directions suck(exscuse my french)It says only a few minutes of idle then start running and tuning!Most other motors require atleat a 1/2 gallon to gallon!of idle and tuning at different temps during idle!
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:09 PM   #3203
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No, they're not broken in. You're gonna think I'm crazy...haha:

Start the engine and let it come up to temp at the stock settings. Then richen the top 2 FULL turns and hold it full throttle for one tank. The engine will be blubbering, spewing fuel out of the pipe. Run 3-5 tanks through it like that (the engine will not be very warm at all by doing this, so no need to let it cool in between tanks).

Then tune it on the rich side and run it on the track for 3-4 tanks. Then you're good to go!
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:43 PM   #3204
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yes, nothing like Wide Open Throttle Style won't do the trick.
Fast, efficient an Joyful to watch it full throttle!
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:08 PM   #3205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
No, they're not broken in. You're gonna think I'm crazy...haha:

Start the engine and let it come up to temp at the stock settings. Then richen the top 2 FULL turns and hold it full throttle for one tank. The engine will be blubbering, spewing fuel out of the pipe. Run 3-5 tanks through it like that (the engine will not be very warm at all by doing this, so no need to let it cool in between tanks).

Then tune it on the rich side and run it on the track for 3-4 tanks. Then you're good to go!
Do you pay for your engines? How many gallons do you get from each engine if I may ask? I guess if I wanted to break in an engine fast and didn't care if it got 2 gallons on it I'd try that method. While I understand that that break in method is an option to a very select few I seriously doubt it's the preferred method for most of us.
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Old 03-05-2007, 10:36 PM   #3206
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But that's the thing...we're getting GALLONS from these engines after breaking them in like that. The first engine I've done this to has over five gallons on it, including a runaway, and still idles, runs very well, and gets good mileage. It's not worn out! In fact, that's the engine I ran Saturday night. The Platinum Edition .21's are the first engines we've started breaking in this way, and it seems to work very well; this is how The Drake himself recommends customers to break in these engines.
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Old 03-06-2007, 10:19 AM   #3207
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*still waiting to here back - bump*
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Old 03-06-2007, 11:23 AM   #3208
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Alright, I'll see what's up.
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Old 03-06-2007, 10:07 PM   #3209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
this is how The Drake himself recommends customers to break in these engines.
Would you recommend that method for an Picco 28 ?
I broke in my WSX7 With the heat cycle method .......Has about 5gals through it, butt it is time for a Pinch.Maybe Ceramics..
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Old 03-07-2007, 01:05 AM   #3210
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Ceramic bearings seem like a pretty good idea for most engines these days. The tolerances for the bearings used by these companies might just be too "good" for the stress we put these engines through.

I haven't personally tested that break-in method back to back, or on anything other than our Platinum Edition motors, but I trust Adam that it is the right way to go with those engines.
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