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Old 01-15-2006, 10:44 PM   #2701
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allenong - I haven't used them. I've seen all three types of systems in action (Novak sells two different systems, and two different motors for each) and they all look good. I believe Novak's GTB system with the 5.5 motor would win in an all out drag race, but I'm not 100% sure.

savage - Hubs, arms, block (optional..but a good thing to have, because it changes the toe-in), cross bones, axle assembly, hub bearings, hex and wheel bushing (they come in a set), and the rear wheels. I THINK that's it.

Jon - I haven't run any 4wd...so I'm not gonna be any help, haha! I race too many classes as it is and haven't ordered a kit.

azonixmaestro - Yes!

rocket - When I ran 53's I liked 60/40 best, but I think the car feels much better with more pack (thinner oil but smaller pistons). I don't think anyone has tried running more pack on only one end of the car..but if you wanna try it, let me know how it works!

ianhobbies - I'm pretty keen on sticking with the same setup and just changing how I'm driving. Facility looks good...just start with the Drake setup and go for it.

eekern - I've never run them separately..I built a brand new car for the RC Pro Finals that I am going to use at the big races in '06 (and use my old car as a beater/club racer) and it was really good! I run the upper holes in the tower to get more up-travel..they're lower than the original holes from the first shock tower, so there's no reason to use the lower row. The chassis has changed a little for more down-travel but I don't think anything else is different.

partywagon - I think the Jammin' car can be set up more aggressively, which really helps on U.S. style tracks.

D Mac - I usually run no more than a degree or so (I never really use a camber gauge, just eyeball it with a soda can) and usually on any track that isn't very rough. As the track gets rougher, I like to lean the tires in until about 1 or 2 degrees negative.

ultra7m - Try adding another washer to the front bulkhead ballstud, and try going to a total of 5 washers on the rear hub. You can try running .060 spacers in the rear shocks and a total of .180 in the front shocks (no other changes) if the track stays decently smooth, which if you're running Taper Pins, is probably going to be OK. If the track gets SERIOUSLY rough, then stay at full travel.

charles and killer89 - Photoshop vandalism at its finest...hahahaha. That was at the Nationals in Texas and it was flippin' hot out, so I went shirt-less in between practice sessions and got a tan. Cross-dressing is a little too out there for my tastes.
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Old 01-16-2006, 09:33 AM   #2702
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Aaron I am really liking the looks of the Jammin buggy and its really what I want. But was told by a friend ( who supposedly talked to a jammin driver) and that they both claim that the jammin parts wear out really really fast. I wanted to ask someone that would truly know before I decided against it. Thanks.
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:59 PM   #2703
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The outdrives had some issues as far as metal hardness but that should all be worked out now. The plastic parts and everything else have no problems and the car is as durable as anything out there.

I ran one car at every big race (and all of the little races) last year instead of building a new car every couple big races. Sure, I rebuilt it when it needed it, but the car holds up very well.
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:41 PM   #2704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron

Jon - I haven't run any 4wd...so I'm not gonna be any help, haha! I race too many classes as it is and haven't ordered a kit.
Well what the hell good are you? You need to get down here and race some electric at Family some time.

So far the car's been kind of hit and miss. Really sensitive to the track (wet vs. dry) It seems much faster no matter what I do with setup on a dry track but Family's dirt is like running on cement when it's dry and swept. Really hard on tires and brutal on chassis.
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Old 01-16-2006, 02:49 PM   #2705
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Hi aaron
Im not realy new to cars but im no expert. I have had no knowledge or experience of tuning my cars. Ive had 2 on road cars, a little buggy think(cant remember names) and i am currently running a T-Maxx (needs new clutch i think though)

I want to get a new car, something smaller than the T-Maxx, i like the Hyper 7, I have seen a Hyper 7 TQ Sport available for 245
http://www.benracing.co.uk/acatalog/..._Sport_TQ.html

Is it worth spending an extra 70 on the Hyper 8.
http://www.benracing.co.uk/acatalog/Hobao_Hyper_8.html

Which would you go for? I only have about 50 at the moment, but i wil lhave the money in a couple of weeks

Thanks
Matt
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:08 PM   #2706
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Jon Kerr - Man if I had the time to do that..haha! I've been saying that I'll make it down for what, a year now?

The next couple months are really busy as far as racing and the weekends go, but we'll see. I want to make it down there and see all the guys who used to race at DHW.

As far as a big difference when the track is wet vs. dry..that's really common in off-road. There's usually such a huge difference in traction (and tire choice) that sometimes setups are completely different from wet to dry..and not to mention 4wd cars usually have a lot of motor strapped in. I've never seen an electric track that was faster wet than it was dry and swept..that's just how things go. It's hard on equipment but sooo much fun to drive.

shoks - If you're looking to get into racing, I'd go for the Hyper 8 hands down. The buggy is very capable and definitely a front runner. I'd definitely spring the extra money.

Remember though, that the Hyper 8 isn't RTR (at least, I haven't seen an RTR version of it yet). If you won't be able to get all the extra gear up front, the Hyper 7 isn't a completely bad choice. After all, it did TQ the 2004 Worlds!
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:11 PM   #2707
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hi aaron, this Hyper 8 is RTR
http://www.benracing.co.uk/acatalog/Hobao_Hyper_8.html

I am not going to be racing it realy, just want something to muck about with, but not realy bash. Want a pretty fast one. Is the Hyper 7 TQ Sport fast?
how much faster is the Hyper 8, do you know?

cheers
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:17 PM   #2708
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Aaron,
I know this isn't a simple question but.......

What's your motor break in method? In my research I see three distinct ways to do it.

1. Idle on the bench ( or use a propeller on a stand)

2. Heat cycle to a certain temp and let cool(some say at idle, others say at varying throttle, and still others say just run it around for 5 min.)

3. The Cyrul method....run it at full throttle so rich it almost flames out.

I got a Rossi P5x and i don't want to screw it up

Thanks

BTW... just finished building the FT X1CR...killer buggy
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:21 PM   #2709
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Yeah, Donny V. and I have kind of got the class going now. Patrick See got himself an X-5 to run out there too. I just want them to decide if it's going to be wet or dry. One or the other. One race day it's dry, one it's wet. Dry it burns up a set of hole shots in 3 runs but I was a full second faster on a 20-21 second layout. Not to mention the setup I came up with and slapped on it out of the box was freaking dialed!!!
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:29 PM   #2710
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4wd on a good track is dialed no matter what setup is on there! Off-road has track changes..it's not on-road bud . haha!

Have you tried different tires when it's dry? Like Silver Blockheads up front and X-2000's or BK-Bars in the rear? They last MUCH longer than Holeshots.
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:39 PM   #2711
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Haven't done a whole lot of testing on dry. I've run hole shots and taper pins (sucked ass!) The hole shots were awesome. I'll try those others next time they decide to run it dry. We've been trying a few different things for wet tires. Steps, bow-ties, we're trying the silver IFMAR studs F/R Wednesday. That'd be dialed if they work well, won't have to MAKE front tires
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Old 01-16-2006, 04:04 PM   #2712
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The track needs to be abrasive (picking up a blue groove) for Taper Pins to work. There have been outdoor races on swept tracks where the track starts to get slick (usually when it's cold, humid or slightly damp, and already very grooved) where Taper Pins aren't glued like normal.

Try IFMAR Pins (A-7281 is the front tire, A-7367 is the rear) when the track is wet. That's what we ran on 2wd at Hemet, and what we usually run on our trucks when they water the track. A7368 is the "Big Shot" which is a taller IFMAR Pin...try it if the dirt is extra loamy.
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Old 01-16-2006, 04:08 PM   #2713
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I guess you're of some use! J/K Thanks bro. Let me know if you decide to come down. I'll try to get everyone out. Maybe even get Randy's ass to drive down.
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Old 01-16-2006, 04:34 PM   #2714
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shoks - I don't think the Hyper 8 is RTR in the states yet..that's why I wasn't sure. It won't be any faster in a straight line or any reason, but around a race track should be considerably easier to go fast with.

Jon - Will do if I ever make it down there. We can drag Randy down here by his ears!

D_Ames - I heat-cycle my engines..get 'em hot (around 200 or so) by running up and down the street or track from tank one, let it cool down completely in between tanks, and do that for about a quart or so.
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Old 01-16-2006, 08:04 PM   #2715
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hey aaron, do u know or could u find out what the hot tire was for the midwest this past weekend? i tried asking on crcrc's site, and apperently thats not a priority for them, im drive 750 miles, trying to be a little prepared for this gas race, are you attending?
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