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Old 11-25-2005, 12:17 PM   #2641
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ahsikes - Now's the part where I try to talk you out of a CV-R...for around the same price range, you can get one of the Adam Drake Edition motors. I ran the CV-R for years before I started racing for Trinity, so I know what they're like. The carburetors are great, but I did have bearing problems with them.

The Drake Engine carburetors are right up there with an O.S. carb...I'm not kidding. I haven't had a bearing failure yet, and I think the motor is a lot easier to drive faster with. It feels like a loud electric motor, very smooth and linear. I always felt like the CV-R was a little peaky on top and flat on the bottom.

mafia - I think they'll have a .12? I haven't seen the motor run (except on that cool animated movie, haha) so I have no idea how it's going to work.

arushmen - Anti-squat is the angle of the rear inner hinge pins in terms of the ground..the higher the angle (front of the pin is higher than the rear) the more anti-squat.

More anti-squat will give the car more forward bite, and make the rear end lock up more on acceleration. This will take away on-power steering. More anti-squat will go through square-edged bumps better, and it will jump higher (not always a good thing).

Less anti-squat will squat harder on acceleration, give more on-power steering, and go over rounded bumps better. It will stay lower over jumps, which can get the car back on the ground faster, something I prefer.

Kickup is the relation of the front inner hinge-pins to the round..more kick-up will usually go through bumps better and jump better.

Kick-up also changes caster, which is the relation of the kingpin (the hinge pin or screws that allow the steering knuckle to turn left and right). More caster is when the king-pin is leaning further back..more caster will steer in harder but have less steering coming out. The opposite can be said for running less caster.

Mugen's short springs allow you to run a lower ride-height but still run some pre-load on the springs. If you don't load the springs a bit with the pre-load collars, the car can feel mushy.
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Old 11-25-2005, 12:32 PM   #2642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
ahsikes - Now's the part where I try to talk you out of a CV-R...for around the same price range, you can get one of the Adam Drake Edition motors. I ran the CV-R for years before I started racing for Trinity, so I know what they're like. The carburetors are great, but I did have bearing problems with them.

The Drake Engine carburetors are right up there with an O.S. carb...I'm not kidding. I haven't had a bearing failure yet, and I think the motor is a lot easier to drive faster with. It feels like a loud electric motor, very smooth and linear. I always felt like the CV-R was a little peaky on top and flat on the bottom.

mafia - I think they'll have a .12? I haven't seen the motor run (except on that cool animated movie, haha) so I have no idea how it's going to work.

arushmen - Anti-squat is the angle of the rear inner hinge pins in terms of the ground..the higher the angle (front of the pin is higher than the rear) the more anti-squat.

More anti-squat will give the car more forward bite, and make the rear end lock up more on acceleration. This will take away on-power steering. More anti-squat will go through square-edged bumps better, and it will jump higher (not always a good thing).

Less anti-squat will squat harder on acceleration, give more on-power steering, and go over rounded bumps better. It will stay lower over jumps, which can get the car back on the ground faster, something I prefer.

Kickup is the relation of the front inner hinge-pins to the round..more kick-up will usually go through bumps better and jump better.

Kick-up also changes caster, which is the relation of the kingpin (the hinge pin or screws that allow the steering knuckle to turn left and right). More caster is when the king-pin is leaning further back..more caster will steer in harder but have less steering coming out. The opposite can be said for running less caster.

Mugen's short springs allow you to run a lower ride-height but still run some pre-load on the springs. If you don't load the springs a bit with the pre-load collars, the car can feel mushy.
Aaron, I am going to ask you to explain a theory or two since I disagree with you on anti squat.

More rear anti squat means the car does not squat as much when you are on power. Less weight transfers to the rear of the car. This should give more on power steering as you have less weight transferred to the rear of the car.

Less rear anti squat means the rear of the car squats more under acceleration. This raises the front end up. This should result in less on power steering.

At least that is my understanding.
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Old 11-25-2005, 03:33 PM   #2643
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Scott - I understand your point completely..Adam and I argued that to the death.

More anti-squat makes the car want to wheelie more. If you think about it, having more forward bite AND more on-power steering from the same adjustment would be kinda tough
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Old 11-25-2005, 04:56 PM   #2644
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Thanks Aaron:

I don't agree with you on these, as I think less anti squat gives less on power steering and vice versa. Maybe that is why I race onroad now.
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Old 11-25-2005, 09:39 PM   #2645
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I can understand that not being the case in on-road..probably the same for 1/8th scale as well. But I know in 2wd...if the front tires aren't touching the ground, it's not gonna turn!
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Old 11-26-2005, 05:15 AM   #2646
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Hi Aaron,

Can you please give me some pointers on how to improve the front end grip on a BK2.

The car has an aluminium front bulkhead, and also aluminium rear hub carriers.

The tracks i race on over here at the moment are very loose sandy surfaces which makes turning the car even harder.

I have 3/4 ounce of lead weight inside the front bulkhead to try to get more steering out of it but it doesnt seem to be helping.

What i need is some suspension settings to try to help it steer.

It has trouble with on power steering mainly and it seems to just skip forward instead of turning.

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-26-2005, 11:20 AM   #2647
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Try messing with anti-squat..does your buggy wheelie really bad? If it does, try less anti-squat (or even pro-squat) to help keep the front tires on the ground.

Try long arm front and rear. What setup are you currently running?
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Old 11-26-2005, 05:31 PM   #2648
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Aaron...

is it cool to post this link? sorry....delete it if not....

Thanks...

Me in my dad's 350Z. Roads in my area. Got it past 130 and change, but road and memory card ended so....anyway, enjoy...
http://media.putfile.com/Nissan350Z124MPH
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:02 AM   #2649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Try messing with anti-squat..does your buggy wheelie really bad? If it does, try less anti-squat (or even pro-squat) to help keep the front tires on the ground.

Try long arm front and rear. What setup are you currently running?
Where do you adjust the anti-squat? I've never known that one.
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:46 AM   #2650
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On Losi off-road cars, it's the spacers under the pivot block (the front or the rear) that change the angle of the pivot block in relation to the chassis.

For many 1/8th scale buggies, it's the actual pivot blocks themselves that are changed. It depends on the car.
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:50 AM   #2651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Try messing with anti-squat..does your buggy wheelie really bad? If it does, try less anti-squat (or even pro-squat) to help keep the front tires on the ground.

Try long arm front and rear. What setup are you currently running?
It would possibily wheelie if i could get enough traction.

Current setup is

Front.
Centre hole with 1 washer on inside.
Outside hole on outside no washers.
Long arms.
Silver springs unsure of oil weight as i got the car second hand.
Outside top and inside bottom for shock.
Losi A7202 tyres.

Rear.
Inside hole on inside mount.
Outside hole with 2 washers on Trinity Aluminium rear hub carriers.
Short arms.
Red springs unsure of oil weight as i got the car second hand.
Hole 2 on rear tower and centre hole on the bottom.

I also have 3/4oz of lead weight inside the aluminium front bulkhead.

It is also running anitsquat at the moment but i need to take the back end apart to determine the exact amount.

Please give me some pointers as to what i need to change to give me the steering traction i need.

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:46 AM   #2652
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Hi AAron, I am in need of a setup for SRS with a XXXBK2. Can you please post one for me or tell me what page it's on?

Thank you,
C.J. Stevens
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Old 11-27-2005, 11:58 AM   #2653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron Waldron
Try messing with anti-squat..does your buggy wheelie really bad? If it does, try less anti-squat (or even pro-squat) to help keep the front tires on the ground.

Try long arm front and rear. What setup are you currently running?
Aaron, when you mention Pro-Squat. You are adding zero spacers in the front of the rear arms and adding, I would guess ballstud washers under the rear alluminum block? If you are using something else other than ballstud washers could you post that. Also, how many do you use for the "squat"? Thanks Aaron.
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Old 11-27-2005, 12:47 PM   #2654
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Stefan - The washers are .040..when you buy the pivot blocks, the little washers come with it. The stock blocks have 0 degrees (no shims).

nudge - Take all the anti-squat washers out of your car and try that. If you still need more, try adding a washer under the rear block.

CJ Stevens - I haven't been to SRS in a couple years and I'm not sure what everyone is running out there. I'd talk to Casey Peck or Mac Mitchell and see what they're running.
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Old 11-27-2005, 01:55 PM   #2655
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[QUOTE=Aaron Waldron]Stefan - The washers are .040..when you buy the pivot blocks, the little washers come with it. The stock blocks have 0 degrees (no shims).

So you have to buy a special pivot block to run the pro-squat. You cant run the stock BK2 block and add washer(s) to the rear of it?
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