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Old 09-14-2005, 02:49 PM   #2506
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yeah i wonder who tought u that?

give me buzz some time bro. had to give ya some crap.
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Old 09-14-2005, 03:57 PM   #2507
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I've still got your number, maybe I'll ring you just to razz you while you're working :-)

I got it from a Traxxas piece of paper, so there! :-P
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Old 09-14-2005, 08:02 PM   #2508
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Default engine tuning?

I have a engine tuning problem that I haven't been able to solve for some time. My rb x12 runs great on the track. Tuned properly on the top and the bottom. However, when the truck gets tangled up in the air or if I have a end over end crash I have noticed that my truck is more likely to die than other trucks in similar crashes. Things that I have thought of:

Idle screw to slow and getting jarred in wrecks.. nope.. I can hold full brake and my idle doesn't drop at all.

To lean on fuel somewhere.. I dunno.. runs at 255 and can lay upside down for about 45 seconds before it starts to starve for fuel...

To rich somewhere... It has awesome power on the low end and runs 255.. that's as hot as I like to run them..

pipe is secured extremely well.. its a trinity one piece pipe (like 1/8th scale) and has two hanger wires on it..

the only thing that I haven't ruled out is that somehow the filter is getting deformed in the crash and it chokes it for air??

can anyone else provide some suggestions.. I rarely crash but it seems when I catch a pipe or get the truck cart wheeling that it will die..

That being said.. can everyone go out and buy a gas truck so we can revive this class? oh yeah and outlaw monster trucks..
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Old 09-15-2005, 07:19 AM   #2509
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Default XXXT Spur gear

Hey Aaron, I have just replaced the stripped spur gear on my truck and adjusted the diff and slipper as per instructions but after 2 batteries it has already started to wear again . Any ideas what is causing this?

Thanks

Nate
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:00 AM   #2510
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syconate - Is your motor plate bent at all? If you can, take it off and hold it up against a pane of glass to see if it's warped. If it is, the gears won't line up correctly and you'll chew gears up.

Also, how are you setting your gear mesh? Use a piece of paper to space the gears apart when you tighten the motor screws. You want a little backlash in between the teeth of the gears instead of butting the pinion right up to the spur.

What's the condition of your gear cover like? Are you running the stock spur gear and gear cover?

shodaman - 250 is kinda hot for those engines...not for durability, but I haven't seen many people that can handle the power those engines put out at those temperatures.

If you pinch your fuel line, what happens? Everything should stay the same for about 5-10 seconds or so, then the idle should start to raise as it leans out. Without being there to hear it run, I'd guess your engine is probably too lean on the bottom and too rich on the top to make up for it...it's a very common thing.

Check and make sure your tank isn't leaking, and it's probably not a bad idea to check and maybe replace your fuel line. Have you sealed your carburetor and backplate? What air filter are you using?

Is your clutch hanging up? Can the truck sit on the ground and idle, or does it die when the rear tires hit the ground?

I hope something I just said helps! Let me know if you don't get it fixed.
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Old 09-15-2005, 10:47 AM   #2511
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Aaron,

Me again! lol

I need help building my diff. I can't seem to get it right. I build it per the instructions but keep having it come loose. When it's tight it feels gritty, is it possible to run a solid in the rear? I don't really need diff. action as I'm running on HIGH bite carpet.

Thanks for the help.

Your new pain in the butt, Larry lol
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Old 09-15-2005, 01:45 PM   #2512
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High bite carpet is a textbook example of when you need to run a diff. A 2wd car will push off the track without one!

When the diff is gritty, it's often the thrust bearing. Clean everything with motor spray right out of the package and try using Associated black grease on the thrust assembly. Put it together according to the instructions and work the diff back and forth with your hands as you tighten it...tighten a little bit, work it back and forth, and repeat.

To test the diff, put an allen wrench through each outdrive to hold them still and try to turn the diff gear. If you can turn it, you need to tighten the diff more.

Once it's in the car, hold the car up by the rear end of it and apply 1/4 throttle to get the wheels turning. Use the pit table or ground to stop one tire for five seconds, then the other, back and forth, about five times each. This will break in all the parts and allow everything to seat. When everything breaks in, the diff usually loosens up, and that's why people melt new diffs.

Lock your slipper down, hold the right rear tire and spur gear with your right hand, and try to turn the left rear tire. If you can turn it, then you need to tighten the diff. Do this until you can't turn the left rear tire. Back your slipper off the recommended adjustment in the manual, and do the test again. You should find that you'll be able to turn the left rear tire with some effort, and that the slipper shaft, nut, and spring all turn. If you can't turn the left rear tire, back the slipper off until you can.

Keep checking your diff and slipper adjustment every run or so and it will last for a long time!
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Old 09-15-2005, 03:13 PM   #2513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lana
Aaron,

Me again! lol

I need help building my diff. I can't seem to get it right. I build it per the instructions but keep having it come loose. When it's tight it feels gritty, is it possible to run a solid in the rear? I don't really need diff. action as I'm running on HIGH bite carpet.

Thanks for the help.

Your new pain in the butt, Larry lol
Ever hear a car chirp when it goes slowly around a corner? That's because there's no diff action (posi). Your car would be like that with the traction carpet has.
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Old 09-15-2005, 05:06 PM   #2514
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Ideally, you usually want your diff as loose as it can be without slipping.
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Old 09-16-2005, 01:37 AM   #2515
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Aaron...I'm so horribly bored! Friday is my worst day of the week. I have only one class...at 2-2:50. I don't have the time to go home and back, I don't have the patience to study, I can only beat Rainbow 6 so many times and my work study job doesn't start for another week!

Any ideas on how to pass the time are most appreceiated....

later.
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Old 09-16-2005, 04:58 AM   #2516
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Default Spur gear

Aaron there was quite a bit of slop betwen the spur and pinion gears. I just got a kevlar spur today and i have adjusted the pinion a bit closer to the spur without butting it up. I am hoping the kevlar spur will be a bit more durable than plastic!

Any ideas on how can i extract a screw (Hex insert) that is stripped? without forking out for a dremel!

Cheers

Nate
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Old 09-16-2005, 11:12 AM   #2517
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mafia - Start wrenching! Cut some motors, glue some tires, something easy.

syconate - At the same time, too much slop is a bad thing! You don't want a bunch, just a tick of backlash.

Ask a friend or your LHS to borrow a dremel! haha
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Old 09-16-2005, 04:12 PM   #2518
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Default optional hubs ad2/mf2 question

Hey Freinds,

Just got the new AD2 hub adapters installed on the MF2, they work great. We have a ton of tires/wheels now for both vehicles.
My question is, Does Losi make a lighter front axel for the AD2? I want to run the AD2 wheels on the front of the MF2 but to do it I have to run the steel front axels. I want to keep it as light as possible. BTW if they do have them, please list the part#

Thanks.

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Old 09-16-2005, 04:18 PM   #2519
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The weight difference between the stock aluminum axles and the steel AD2 axles is insignificant. The added durability (I've sheered many aluminum front axles) is what you'll actually notice, not the weight. I've been running steel axles on my electric trucks for years.

I'm actually curious to hear what the weight difference is! Someone throw a pair on the scale for me? haha

But to answer your question...no, Losi doesn't make AD2-style axles in aluminum.
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Old 09-16-2005, 05:18 PM   #2520
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Lunsford makes them in titanium though!
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