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Old 05-21-2005, 08:25 AM   #2416
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Default Offroad Tires

The track that I run at is like damp sand, great traction! which would work best, silver or red compound Step Pins?
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Old 05-21-2005, 04:23 PM   #2417
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Aaron,

You got a PM!!

thanks!
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Old 05-21-2005, 04:25 PM   #2418
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Default Re: Offroad Tires

Quote:
Originally posted by Trixter
The track that I run at is like damp sand, great traction! which would work best, silver or red compound Step Pins?
Red compund for everything.....if it feels too grabby, then up it to a silver.
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Old 05-24-2005, 12:38 PM   #2419
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Hey Aaron whats up? You'll have to make it out for the next JBRL race. Its at your favorite track, "The Dirt". Just make sure you bring your electric cars braaaaaaa!

Later,
Joe
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Old 05-24-2005, 05:15 PM   #2420
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Default striped a screw in graphite

strip't a set screw in the rear pivot block.
I have a Adam Drake 2
Does anybody know a fix. I would like to go to an e-clip system?
If I replace the pivot block I was thinkin of filing a small flat spot on the hinge pin for the setscrew to bump. I have done this on axles on oval pan cars and it works great.

Also i have an O.S. TR with a 10J slide carb I have ordered a 10m rotary for better mid-range throtle has any one tried this?

Does anybody know a Free tuning guide for nitro engines. (on the net)

thanks for the help
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Old 05-24-2005, 11:34 PM   #2421
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Default Stripping

When using the stock pivot I use a 5/40 set screw (losi sells them) instead of the 4/40 and yes I would flatten the pin. And I have heard of guys using shock rods and an E clip to keep it from moving forward. But, I would recommend using the Aluminum pivot block from Rock Concepts. Besides being made of the hardest aluminum it is different in design. the set screws are on top and in the back so they dont pack with dirt. Also the front end is sealed so that even if you loose a set screw the pins cannot move forward. Nice design. John does not have a picture of the block on the website yet, But give him a call and he will hook you up. ROCK Concepts
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:52 AM   #2422
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I use the old set-up for the pivot block, huge set screw in the front & use shorter(the AD1) hinge pins, to capture them.
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Old 05-26-2005, 04:26 AM   #2423
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Default shock oil viscositys

Hi I have a question about shock oil and how it is rated.
does losi use CPS or WT ? if they use WT then is the oil completely linear or do some numbers make larger steps in viscosity than other?

since it is summer I'm racing my XB8 and havn't used my MF2 for a few weeks. but I would like to use my losi oil in the XB8 since I have so much of it:-)

but the numbers on different brands oil seem not compatible to their actual thickness.
Like a 600 XRAY oil may be anyware from 30 to 45 losi depending on who you ask.

I found this web site and it is an interesting/confusing problem
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/tip/shock.html
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Old 05-28-2005, 09:18 AM   #2424
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Aaron, I race weekly at an offroad trak with my XXX-T. Over the winter, I outfitted my truck with a stainless steel screw kit from RCscrewz. I slightly tightened one nut on the shock collar on one of the front shock bodies and ended up breaking the plastic shock collar.

I've always wanted to get threaded shock bodies (I got a RTR), and I figured now would be a good time to upgrade. However, I just recently filled, cleaned, and lubed the shocks and all the shocks. They are setup the way I want them and are like new.

Are threade shock bodies that nice to have? I'm really not willing to dump out $18 on the front and back sets, when I can just pay a buck or two for some shock collars.

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Old 05-28-2005, 10:36 AM   #2425
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Threaded bodies are nice but as long as you clean the excess oil off of your shock bodies after an oil change, the collars should not slip. In 16 years of racing, I've only had my collars slip a few times. I have threaded bodies now but only because they came with the cars I'm running now.

BTW, the chart on the TWF8 website that compares the oil weights is backwards. The weights given in the associated column are supposed to be for the Losi oils and vice versa. That very chart was the other way around a month ago.
Associated is slightly thinner for a given weight than Losi.
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Old 05-30-2005, 06:15 AM   #2426
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Default Thrust Bearing

In some of my older Losi trucks the 'caged thrust bearing' was a stock part.
Then Losi went away from it. Now everyone seems to be going back to it. Does it work all that much better or is it just a matter of convenience?

Please I need facts, not a bunch of speculations.

Thanks

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Old 05-30-2005, 07:57 AM   #2427
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The caged thrust bearings that we're referring to have grooved, hardened races (not washers). I was using the Losi caged bearing for a while and that was vastly smoother than the stock loose ball setup but the Skipgear/Axiom/Traxxas/Schumacher (you get the idea) is a good bit better than the Losi caged thrust and they last just about forever.
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Old 05-30-2005, 12:52 PM   #2428
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hey has anyone tried the paris (novarossi) top ct12. are they very reliable
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Old 05-30-2005, 08:15 PM   #2429
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Trixter-- David was right. The Losi caged bearings are better then the washer type but the groved washers or races are not hardened so they do not last as long as the more expensive skipgear type bearings. I have been using the skip gear type bearings for about a year now and the thrust bearings seem smoother after a rebuild then they did new. I have yet to replace one of them yet through 3 rebuilds. All I replace during a diff rebuild is the d-rings! These new bearings are worth every penny. They diffs last longer between rebuilds too!

streetstock-- The Top CT12 and the Nova rossi CX12 are VERY good motors. They produce great power and last a really long time. The carbs are pretty good on them also. If you have the extra money get the CT12R2N or the CX12R2N versions. They are about $30 more but the port the sleave a little different. You get all the same power but an extra 2-3 min of runtime out of the "N" motors. You can get them for about $170 at www.ultimatehobbies.com . I highly recommend these motors! They are fast and a little hard to get tuned initially but they do hold a tune well and last a long time if not overheated or abused. Much better then my picco based motors.
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Old 05-31-2005, 05:19 AM   #2430
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Default bk2, how old?

Just curious as to how old the bk2 is, and if there's a bk3 in the works...?
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