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Old 04-03-2005, 05:59 PM   #2296
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yeah, minimize the 180's
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Old 04-03-2005, 11:47 PM   #2297
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It's alright to have a ton of 180's, just place them well. A 180 coming on to or coming off of the straightaway generally isn't good.

Give plenty of run up to some of the bigger jumps and make sure all the jumps are built well. Test the jumps with several cars before completing the track and make sure they're all straight and easy to jump. You'll be able to tell if the faces of the jumps aren't right.

Watch for blind spots.
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:16 PM   #2298
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Aaron,

you know what your thread is a great example of?.....Market Saturation! You're too good and this thread prooves it! You've answered so many questions from so many people and turned all of us pro....well there is literally nothing left!

and for that.....you should be comended! I dunno....I just though, "hey, you did a killer job on this thread!" and whether or not is picks back up, one should print out this entire thread and all their questions about cars, girls and life would be throughly answered!

-Peace!
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:22 PM   #2299
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this thread is nowhere NEAR dead! we havn't even covered the magic behind cheese doodles yet.

i second the praise!
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Old 04-06-2005, 07:35 AM   #2300
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good call!
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Old 04-06-2005, 09:48 AM   #2301
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Im pretty new to running off -road . And last weekend I blew my diff gear........ The center part that holds the balls seperated. It looks melted............... I have a feeling maybe my slipper was to tight but im not sure. Any advise?? (oh yeah, its a bk2)
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Old 04-06-2005, 10:18 AM   #2302
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The slipper may have been too tight but the diff was definately too loose. The slipper needs to give before the diff does. If the diff is set too loose it will slip and eventually melt out the diff gear like you mentioned. Prior to rebuilding the diff squeeze the diff spring to full compression in a vise or some pliers a couple times. Then rebuild the diff and make sure the slipper gives before the diff does. You can do this by a simple test.

With the car point away from you with both tires on and the gear cover off. Hold the right side tire and the spur gear with one hand. With the other turn the left tire. Look at the slipper shaft and as the left wheel turns if the slipper shaft does not also move the diff is giving before the slipper. Tighten the diff or loosen the slipper as required to make sure the slipper shaft moves during this test.
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Old 04-06-2005, 11:11 AM   #2303
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Thanks!
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Old 04-06-2005, 11:15 AM   #2304
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No problem!
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Old 04-06-2005, 02:09 PM   #2305
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Casper

At HRH in saugus we have been having issues with popping off rear camber links on the AD2. The only guy that isn't having issues in Jimmy B--- I wish the rest of us are half as smooth as he is.

Since there isn't a good source for Rocket City ends and the Dubros seem to stretch, what are you using? Also, you told me that you were running the LOSI RTR ball cups with larger Lunsford tie rods. Are you still having good luck with those? What is the part number for the set.

I have been breaking a lot of tir rods on the back of my AD2

Thanks
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Old 04-06-2005, 02:43 PM   #2306
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I'm going to try the dubro Monster ball(lol) ends, they look impressive(thick). Others have been using them & the mugen ends, just for the inside/rear. I use the white stck ball cups everywhere else. Only had 2 pop-off after a VERY, VERY bad landing, since I have been racing it since Jan. Get the lunford Super-duty turnbuckles for the rear, never broke one.


Mugen cap-ends- C0801A (steering ends) and a set of C801C (balls).

Part# 2317
Dubro 4-40 Monster Ball Links

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Old 04-06-2005, 03:03 PM   #2307
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Part # 12069 is the lunsford part number for the superduty tie rods for the RTR. Lunsford makes superduty tie rods for the RPM ball cups also and the rods are too long. The get RTR ones and you can use the Losi RTR ball cups which is much better setup.

LOSA6012 is the part number for the RTR ball cups.

If this is something that just started happening I would change out the ball stud to see if that helps. The white ball cups have worked really well on my electric cars. I do run the superduty on the gas truck though. The tie rods really are indestructable (have yet to see a superduty bend) and the black RTR ball cups stay on really well. If one does pop off (rare) I replace them. If it pops off again I replace the cup and the ball stud and that usually makes it good for a while again. The balls end up wearing out over time with dirt in the plastic cup grinding the ball away. That is why I recommend replacing the ball stud to see if that helps first. The tie rods are $30-45. Depending on where you find them
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Old 04-06-2005, 04:04 PM   #2308
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This whole board does a pretty good job of policing itself..it has gotten to the point where I just surf to look out for bad information, instead of having to provide good info!
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Old 04-06-2005, 05:20 PM   #2309
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Thanks for the tie rod / ball cup issue help!

The dubro Monster end are whats breaking. If they don't actually break they stretch untill the ball comes out. I never had to run captured ends on the AD1. I gues the AD2 rear end is so stiff now that something has to give.

I am going to try the Losi RTRs and the superduty Lunsford rear tie rods
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Old 04-07-2005, 09:22 AM   #2310
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Guess, I'll try the mugens then. I don't care about them stretching, I can replace them if they do, but still finish the race I used the traxxas ends on the AD1 & in 2 years of racing never broke one. The new truck, I broke 2 of them at 1 race, lol. Now I'm just looking for something better.

I have a friend that uses the Ofna 8th cap-ends, but the balls are too big & cause a lot of slop. So he took the spacer/shims that comes with servo mounts & put the screw in them & the spacer inside the balls to fix it. If it works for him, it has to work, because he breaks everything on his truck, the weird stuff, front shock tower, tranny brace, brake hub, front bulk-head down the middle.

If I don't find anything else to work, the Ofna will be the last resort.lol

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