Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Actually, forging usually yeilds the strongest allow parts. In cycling CNC parts are nice eye candy but forged parts are stronger. Of course you can have both if you machine a forged part. I don't think forging is used much in RC yet because of the small production run size. It costs lots to set up for forging.

HVAC25000

iTrader: (19)

ACTUALLY, forging is a completely different thing than casting (the word I forgot use which is probably what confused you. Molding is for plastics, casting for metals, still the same process basically, but oh well).

In forging, the metal is formed into a shape under extremely high pressure using hydraulic presses or similar, or beating it with a hammer (like how swords and stuff are made by blacksmiths), causing it to be denser than it was originally. Forging does not involve melting the metal, just heating it. In casting, the metal is melted and poured into a shape using just gravity, same as plastic parts except plastic is sticky so it has to be injected.

arghh

so the hard coated & hard anodized is the same thing and the cnc & billet also almost same thing. i'm really confused because seen on the box and manual book, same thing but different name. for example T6061 hard coated chassis on the box but on the manual book it said T6061 hard anodized swiss 7075 chassis. what i know is the 6061 and 7075 is already a different grade of alloy.. so which one is correct???

HVAC25000

iTrader: (19)

What do you mean by which is correct? Like what is your chassis actually made of? You'd have to ask the manufacturer for that answer.

Aaron Waldron

This is good stuff!

Dustinkeys

iTrader: (3)

Aaron no catus for you?

Dustinkeys

iTrader: (3)

cactus

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

A-dub,
Could you post your Bk2 setup on here. I hear that you like cars that reside "in the house of steering" and my car seems to reside "in the house of push".

Rysuleod

iTrader: (1)

This has been asked before and I did search, but I can't find what I need.

Shock limiters. I bought a shock rebuld kit and it has two limiters. One is about 3mm one is about 4mm. I also have another limiter in the pit box that's about 6mm.

For example from www.teamlosi.com Adam Drake's BK2 setup for SoCal says he uses 0.050 front limiters and 0.090 rear limiters.

How do these numbers match up to some of the setup sheets? What is an "A" and "B" spacer?

What unit of measurement is being used on the setup sheets?

Why can't I figure this out?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The units are inches. I may be wrong on this since I cannot seem to remember this but I think the A spacer is .090 and the B is .120. The .050 is the rear hub spacers if memory serves me right. Aaron should know for sure though.

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

A.W.- what do you think of the hyper .21 engines? My buddy just got a used hyper 7 from fleabay. You can get parts for the thing dirt cheap.

Took the engine apart and the piston has a chunk out of it, at each corner of where the piston is skirted to miss the crank. Not sure how that would have happened? Or is that a common thing for these motors? We never ran the thing, that's just how it came.

Would you recommend that motor? Personally I'm a big os fan.

And what is the difference in the ofna 1/8 pipe that cones down towards the end, and the ofna pipe that stays basically fat the length of the pipe. I'm thinking the one that cones down is for more top end range?

Midnight

iTrader: (87)

You can go to the team losi site and look under set ups, and try the Jesse Robbers set up. Its like driving a cadilac. The only changes I made was 32.5, 56 piston, and center hub spacing in the rear. I also didnt get a chance to put the weight in the front. I will try it thurs.

Im running on an indoor track with alot of traction. I ran hole shot and square fuzzie low with the 4 rib m3 in the front. They all worked very well.

This is only my opinion. Im kind of new to the game of buggy.

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

I have a similar setup to the Robbers setup right now. I have heard Aaron reference his love of steering so I thought I'd ask him what setup he uses.

ghoppa

iTrader: (63)

Aaron,

do you have a good starting set-up for the Titus track????

I am drivin down this weekend to Hemet with the Family and wanted to check out Titus before the "Babcock" race coming up.....

any recommendations would be great!!!!!

Aaron Waldron

Dustin - The Silver State warm-up race is next weekend and Silver State is the weekend following Cactus. I can't spend three weeks away from home!

I'm much better at gas racing, so I'm gonna have to skip out on Cactus this year.

Davidka - I don't really much have a current BK2 setup. I will post the setup I ran at SoCal and try to find the setup I've been running on blue groove. Adam Drake's setup from the Losi website is a good place to start at most "normal" tracks and then you can change from there.

When we go to electric races, Slobbatech, Peanut, or Adam usually hand me a buggy setup to run..so that's what I run. Haha! My buggy is usually very easy to drive and it makes it easier for a gas guy like me to go fast.

.050 is the rear hub spacer. Casper nailed it..as usual.

jbrow - The Hyper engines are pretty good for the money. The engine skirt is shaped like that to clear the crank, it's not something that has been damaged (well..without seeing it..haha).

There are so many different variables when it comes to pipes..but yeah, usually the longer coned ones are for more top end.

ghoppa - I've never run a XXX-4 at Titus. I'd head to Trinity Tech Talk and ask the 4-wheel master Mike Truhe for a good 4wd Titus setup.