rod_b

Thanks Casper. I've only practiced with the MF2 once (only 3 runs on it total) and my friend let me borrow some worn out red Taper Pins and it was OK but could get loose easy at the end of the straight. I picked up some Evil Twin(R3) because he said treads like that and the Tapers work best but I want to also get something with a little more aggressive tread. Thanks again.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Those will work also but with the track being on the new side the holeshots would more then likley work better. Tapers only really work in the summer when the track dries out a lot. Evil Twins or square's will work good for the weekend race. I run holeshots since they last a lot longer and still give really good traction. These same tires will work well at Titus for the next race also.

Aaron Waldron

No bowling trophy..just a place that says "you were the top guy not to make the main". Doh! 3rd place in the B-main..one spot away from the bump-up.

Evan - Up to a .18 should fit with no problems, and a .21 will just cause drivetrain issues if you made a chassis to fit. Your best bet is to grab an O.S. engine, and take your time breaking it in.

Make sure your fuel tank isn't leaking and that fuel is able to make it into the fuel line from the tank.

Tyler - Oh don't worry, I'm ready to race with some cowboys ya'll!

Looking forward to some flashlight racing this weekend at SoCal, the JBRL races are awesome!

takwing

Hey what's up aaron how's it going?, I'm kinda caught here in a dilemma and a problem.


Should i buy?

DuraTrax® Evader™ EP ST RTR $ 170

or

Traxxas Rustler with ESC $140


or


Team associated RC10T4 RTR $220



1) Why is it that RTR's are cheaper? Because when I researched the parts that they include, it's actually more expensive when I build the same thing with the kit. Is it because the companies buys those parts in bulk so they can get discount?

2) MY PROBLEM is, I really want to build a medium sized truck/buggy, but I don't want to spend more than $200. What can I do?

3) The assocaited T4 kit is available for $160. That's not bad. But the radio will $50, ESC $50, and motor $25. That's $285! I can buy a nitro truck RTR for that price. What can I do?

Aaron Waldron

I think you're dead-on as to why RTR's are cheaper. That, and when the electronics components are included with the kit, it's either through a direct connection between the two companies or the equipment is sold wholesale without having to go through a distributor and retailer who both raise prices in order to make a profit.

All of the RTR's in the industry are good. It sounds like you might be buying from Hobby People? If so, I'd go with the RC10T4 RTR..it's an awesome truck. If you can contact another LHS, you may want to look at the Team Losi XXX-T Sport II as well..it's a great deal for everything that is included, such as the digital radio system and Novak/Trinity power components.

As always..you get what you pay for, and getting a kit will not only let you build it, but you'll get to pick and choose which components you put into your car. It's more expensive but I think it's a better idea in the long run. Kudos to you for wanting to build your kit!

I hope that helps, and good luck.

dkj-M3

mini-t

Aaron Waldron

Haha..

HVAC25000

iTrader: (19)

Hey, Aaron! Hope you had fun at the races. Wish I could have gone...

Anyways, I have a question! Do you know why my XXX-4 nosedives off of every jump I try, despite all the little throttle tricks I've tried to keep the nose up? I have blue springs in the front and pink in the rear (causing the front to be stiffer than the rear), is this the problem?

Thanks!

Aaron Waldron

That actually could be the problem. The front end isn't preloading off of the jump because it's simply too stiff.

Try one of the setups on Losi's website and see if that helps. If not, it's either the face of the jump or still how you're approaching the jump itself.

Doug Gaut

Aaron, which compound of 1/8 tire is the norm for most tracks? XTR or M2. Are they about the same with just a shorter life span on the M2?

Aaron Waldron

M2 is softer; I think that's pretty much what everyone runs unless the track is really abrasive.

ultranewb

Aaron, I'm in a pinch. Last weekend I managed to snap my front shock tower on my x1cr pro. Yeah, the machined aluminum ones. Anyway, my lhs can't get any right now and I stayed up 'till 2am last night searching the web with no luck. You wouldn't happen to know where I might find these would you? I would like two towers and will gladly pay overnight shipping. Thanks

arghh

hard coated
hard anodized
cnc machine
billet machine
what is this, which one is the strongest

Aaron Waldron

ultranewb - I'd check www.nitrohouse.com and try calling Lance Norrick's shop in North Carolina, The Farm II.

If they don't have any, let me know..and I will see if I can find something.

arghh - I'm actually not sure?

HVAC25000

iTrader: (19)

Hard Coated and Hard Anodized are the same thing. Search for Anodize on Yahoo! and you'll find lots of info. Don't know why some people say Hard Coated, and don't know why the Hard in front of Anodize is needed, either. There is only one kind of Anodization.

CNC is Computer Numerical Control. Means that the part was made by a computer controlling the machine instead of a guy sitting there cranking handles (That way the part is made within less than 1/1000th of one inch of tolerance, and every part is the exact same). Billet means the same thing usually, but sometimes it means the part is molded out of aluminum into a rough general shape, then all the fine details are added by machine later.

If a part is machined out of a block of aluminum, it will be as strong or stronger than a part that is molded. The molded part will never be stronger than a part machined from a block of aluminum. This is why the aluminum chassis plates on Ofna cars are so strong, and the shock towers are flimsy pieces of ****. I think they melt down old soda cans and make the shock towers out of them.