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Old 05-09-2004, 09:35 PM   #196
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Originally posted by Ybakoff
HI all.

Just a quick one for the pro's.

I just got a new truck. Sorry not a Losi.

But I ran it a couple of times. No problems. Then I changed to a p94 motor. And it was like I had a radio problem with no control. 1st corner with a few cars in front and me on the inside. Flat out. Luckily I missed all them but not the fence. And no I wasn't living up to my user name as first thought.
The only thing I changed was the motor. What on a motor can cause this problem. And How do I fix it.

Thanks Heaps.
Yeah I soldered the caps on. Could that be the cause or something else. Maybe I have a dud cap?
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Old 05-10-2004, 04:06 AM   #197
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Another Question while I think of it.

What capacitors are best to run on mod motor's.

And with the 4505 brushes you where talking about on the monster horsepowers. ( Different thread but I though I would make it easy for you). You say don't run them in. So do i just cut the com and put the brushes in and away I go. Just wanted to make sure didn't want to do any damage.


Thanks for your help..
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:42 AM   #198
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HeY!!!

I got a question... i just got a losi xxx-nt and the motor wasn't ran since like june of last yr.. it took some tuning and i got it running but about 3 mins in and i just let it sit there and idle it wants to clunk... i have a o.s. max. 12 non- pull start, and when i temp it it's 180, and i don't beleave i have to make it richer.....and i also tryed to adjust the idle screw, i brought it in 1/4 turn and it was better but still sorta gets laggy, would it just be because it hasn't been ran in a while or ??? and i only puton 2 tanks yesterday.. thanx in advanced to anyone for info.
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:59 AM   #199
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Josh R 85 dude, those things don't like to sit and idle, they will just load up and quit.

You said "...and idle it wants to clunk". I have a pet chicken that does the same thing.

Also 180 is pretty low, I run my 1/8th scale at 220-230, and I think the 1/10th scales run hotter. When you change the air screws, go 1/12th of a turn at a time, like on a clock, go from 1o to 2:00. If you are at 180 once it is warmed up, turn in the high speed 1 or 2 clicks.
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Old 05-10-2004, 06:08 PM   #200
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ybakoff - i believe the p94 motors have built in capacitors so i dont think you need to add more. Try taking the ones you put on it all the way off.
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Old 05-10-2004, 07:38 PM   #201
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Hey Aaron, remember me... back in the rc411 (xtreme RC) days
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Old 05-10-2004, 07:50 PM   #202
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you only really want your engine to idle for a few seconds and still have good power.. after 10 to 15 seconds.. it should take off kind of blubbery..

plus at idle.. temps will be lower if tuned slightly rich like it should be
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:55 PM   #203
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Ybakoff - Yes, just put the brushes in the motor, make sure it works, and put the car on the track. I don't have a scientific explanation as to why it works, but it does.

We use little blue capacitors on all our motors..and make sure you're using a Schottky diode if you have a Novak ESC (that big one that comes with the ESC is also necessary). Having "too many" capacitors won't make it glitch (sometimes people run five or more). The motor could have shorted out; it's not a common thing, but it can happen, and will make the car glitch. Have you tried a different armature in the same can and endbell?

Paul - What's up dude?! We'll catch up on AIM.

Josh R - 180-220 is really an acceptable range for that motor to run at. Don't tune to a certain temperature..turn needles at small increments at a time, giving the engine plenty of chance to adjust to it before making your next change (at least 45-60 seconds). The engine shouldn't idle too long before sputtering to a stop..maybe 20-40 seconds at the most. Adjust the high speed needle first until the truck gathers speed quickly without any blubbering, and will rev out (but not scream too high). After it does that, tune the low speed needle until the truck accelerates crisply. Only use the temp gun to monitor the engine..it shouldn't need to get above 240 to make good power.
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Old 05-11-2004, 02:29 PM   #204
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Give it up for Team Waldron, Aaron and his dad Lynn. They made the A main at the Gas Nats last week. Good job playa!
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Old 05-11-2004, 05:34 PM   #205
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Where is the best place to mount the personal transponder on a xxx-t?
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:45 PM   #206
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17driver - I mount my personal transponder on the front bulkhead. Otherwise, I use a piece of lexan held from a screw on the back of the chassis (next to the battery tray) on the right side of the truck, right behind the receiver.

Slobba - Thanks dude! You had a great run also..not bad for a buckeye!
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Old 05-12-2004, 08:42 AM   #207
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HeY!!!

Thanx to Doug and Aaron... and i think i gotthe truck to accel. at a nice pace and yesterday after a tank of driving i temped it and it was 217-220, it kept jumping but it was prolly me moving.... thanx again and congrats again to Aaron!!!
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Old 05-12-2004, 04:27 PM   #208
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Thanks!

And I'm glad to hear you got it figured out.
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Old 05-12-2004, 04:52 PM   #209
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Aaron,

I want to get some Losi universals for my XXX BK1 as I am running CVD's right now and don't like them very much. The point series is over and I finished a solid 2nd in stock truck so I want to get back into some buggy racing.

Anyway, do you know how much the losi universals cost? I run the aluminum ones in my truck, do you think I should get some aluminum ones for my buggy or the standard steel?

Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2004, 10:02 PM   #210
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I doubt you'll notice the difference, and the steel ones will be more durable in modified. but if you're just looking for any tiny advantage you can find, then go for it!

I'm not sure how much they cost.
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