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Old 01-19-2005, 06:44 PM   #1981
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I think its red fronts & orange or silvers on the rear.

Last edited by Sofast-NT; 01-19-2005 at 06:50 PM.
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Old 01-19-2005, 07:00 PM   #1982
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Where is the cheapest place to get a tri.sirio evo 2?anyone?Thanks
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Old 01-19-2005, 08:11 PM   #1983
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tower, stormer or ebay are cheap places for sirio
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:20 AM   #1984
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Morrow - The typical Drake setup works bomb everywhere.

You may want to try the slick track setup if traction is hard to find though..
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Old 01-20-2005, 09:48 AM   #1985
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Yo Aaron -

What are the things in a set-up for my BK2 that will help the car rotate faster at the end of the straight in a 90 degree turn???

Thanks
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Old 01-20-2005, 11:44 AM   #1986
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I have a question that doesn't involve looking up part numbers so I know Aaron will appreciate it.

My friend was talking to me about pinion and spur sizes and basically said the following:

"The smaller the spur gear, the more top end and less acceleration. The smaller the pinion, the more acceleration and the less top end."

I've played around with gear ratio numbers in excel and either this is totally wrong, or my brain refuses to understand. We race offroad but barring gearbox ratios (that remain constant) why would a 78/20 = 3.9, a 82/21 = 3.9, and a 86/22 = 3.90 show any difference in speed or acceleration.

Brain hurts... please explain if this is bunk or true. Thanks!
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:40 PM   #1987
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The rule only applies if you only change the spur or only change the pinion. If your spur stays the same a smaller pinion will give more acceleration.

If your pinon stays the same a larger spur gives you more acceleration.

Now with everything being equal another rule of thumb is a larger spur will move the motor further back in the car. Now this is a small change but still a shift in weight and can effect the polar moment of inertia of the car. That is a much longer topic then what you brought up though.

So in summary. The rules you stated only work if you maintain one side constant and only change the other.
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Old 01-20-2005, 02:52 PM   #1988
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Thanks Casper. That follows along with what I considered to be true. I will have to ask my friend where he read that statement above from and then club him for overworking my little brain.

I didn't think about the weight of the motor being a few millimeters back though. Interesting thought.
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Old 01-20-2005, 03:55 PM   #1989
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Aaro where can i find a evo 2 the cheapest for my ad2?
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Old 01-20-2005, 06:52 PM   #1990
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Sofast-NT - I have no idea..I haven't been shopping lately

nutfluff - Camber links and tires. Shorten the front camber link and/or take out washers under the ballstud on the front bulkhead to get more steering, and you may want to try different front tires to get more steering. Also..another degree of anti-squat and moving the hubs forward will give you more steering.

Rysuleod - Thanks for a normal question! haha.

Casper got it though..he's good
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Old 01-21-2005, 05:41 PM   #1991
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Aaron, What is the best way to break in a .21 motor, this will be my first experience with a nitro motor so any help would be appreciated. thanks
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Old 01-21-2005, 09:47 PM   #1992
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Ok fellas, I've got a real small glitch. So small I doubt it would matter in offroad, but I'm running carpet oval now. Using an M8, older airtronics rx, monster stock pro motor, older tekin speedo. When I hit the throttle the wheels turn ever so slightly back and forth. Barely, but enough to make it wander. No breaks in wires, clean comm ran twice never cut, antennae not touching chassis anywhere.

I remember reading a tip somewhere that you could file down the width of the brush and something to do with how it goes over the grooves in the comm that that would make it not as glitch prone. Thought that was a specific motor though. I know, try my good rx in there. Just wondered any thoughts. Got a new quantum 2 on it's way back from the fix it guys.
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Old 01-21-2005, 10:05 PM   #1993
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The caps on the motor may have gone bad. Does this happen with a different motor?
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Old 01-21-2005, 11:51 PM   #1994
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rgb - From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the
ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals,
tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a
normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool
completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue
this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4
minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps
in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without
the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's
overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about
20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning.

Pardon the broken english, I didn't type that..haha
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Old 01-21-2005, 11:53 PM   #1995
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Local tv station with a cool segment on R.C. racing.

http://www.titushobbies.com/9town.wmv
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