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Old 12-02-2004, 03:09 AM   #1606
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Casper & Jeff, thanks for the help,

Jeff, I was asking a for a freind,(lol) I dont run a cvr,
Me and a buddy are still toying with the idea of Ohio, he has been their before, so if he can get time off from work I know we will go, but I dont think he can get time off, we will see, that track looks awesome, on that link you list at GT sight.
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Old 12-02-2004, 07:13 AM   #1607
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What track in Ohio? I know all of them, mostly.
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Old 12-02-2004, 09:47 AM   #1608
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A long plug in an O.S. motor won't really change much, I doubt you'll know the difference. I ran MC59's and O.S. 8's in my old CV-R's and would have never guessed they were different by having to re-tune.

A Schottky diode absorbs the the shock of reversed current when you hit the brakes so it won't blow up the ESC.

kj - What up?

Gabe - I will do the mains again..hahaha
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Old 12-02-2004, 10:07 AM   #1609
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Hey there A-dub, I have a question regarding rear shock mounting position on the Bk2.
I've been running the lower rear shock end in the middle hole on the arm and have noticed that on the Losi site all of the setups have spec'd the inner hole w/ .090 limiter. Can you describe the difference this makes?
My current track is so far that I can never practice/try things out.
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Old 12-02-2004, 01:37 PM   #1610
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Quote:
Originally posted by dkj-M3
What track in Ohio? I know all of them, mostly.
He's talking about the midwest gas champs race at CRCRC at the end of this coming January.

Dave, I'm hoping to go. Just have to find a dependable ride before I send in the entry form. I'm not getting much racing in at all right now, so I'll probably be doing some ugly driving for sure.
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Old 12-02-2004, 08:21 PM   #1611
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Davidka- moving the lower shock inward will make the car rotate better...but all around stability will be reduced a little because you loose the support of the angle. You have to add the limiter because you'll have too much downtrave...well, not necessarily too much, but for high bite tracks, less downtravel will make the car transition quicker. The slicker the track is, the more downtravel you will want to increase overall traction.
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Old 12-02-2004, 09:31 PM   #1612
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You learn from TechTalk very well!
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Old 12-02-2004, 10:34 PM   #1613
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Aaron,

Just a question about engines.

If I install a duratrax stage 2 cooling head onto my O.S. .12 CV, will the added cooling allow me to run a leaner mixture, or will i deprive the engine of lubricant and wear it out too fast??

Thanks
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Old 12-03-2004, 05:46 AM   #1614
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The duratrax head is a good one. I run it on my cv. You shouldn't overlean the motor just b/c of the head. It looks much better than the stock head, and is supposed to cool much better as you said. I've always had plenty of smoke running at 220. Great little motor. Especially since it's so cheap, and rebuilds are only 20 bux or so.
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Old 12-03-2004, 06:02 AM   #1615
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Jeff
Ive been racing one to two times a week and my driving is still ugly LOL


AW
What the difference between a turbo and reg plug.
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Old 12-03-2004, 07:17 AM   #1616
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Quote:
Originally posted by jbrow1
The duratrax head is a good one. I run it on my cv. You shouldn't overlean the motor just b/c of the head. It looks much better than the stock head, and is supposed to cool much better as you said. I've always had plenty of smoke running at 220. Great little motor. Especially since it's so cheap, and rebuilds are only 20 bux or so.
So can I lean it a little more (gimme an idea of the mixture settings) to get a bit more power and economy? Since rebuilds are soooo cheap, I don't mind trading a little life for more performance.

Is the Duratrax head machined? Or is it cast like the stock O.S. CV head?

Thanks in advance
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Old 12-03-2004, 07:26 AM   #1617
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From what I understand....with the stock CV head, you run a hotter temp because it can't displace heat well so you have to run leaner to get the same power. If you run an aftermarket head, you can run down like 190 and still have the same power as the old head at 225.
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Old 12-03-2004, 07:48 AM   #1618
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D MAC-- A turbo plug has a tapered thread on it instead of a normal thread. On a standard plug the seal to the combustion chamber is primaily though the compression of the brass washer when you tighten down the plug. On a turbo plug there is not washer but a tapered thread seals much better. You have to have a turbo head on your engine to run a turbo plug so they are not interchagable. Turbo plugs are also more expensive due to the taper thread on them.
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Old 12-03-2004, 07:51 AM   #1619
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This is from a pro racer on aftermarket heads:


I don't like the idea or use of aftermarket heads that cool the engine more. Everyone is misled by the engine's temp and tunes by that and that alone, temp is just like a diaognostic tool to use if engine runs badly or something is wrong and is side effect of the weather conditions and al the power setup stuff like gearing, pipe, fuel, plug, deck height, driving style, etc... So for those people that have engine tuned good then put that head on and engine now runs 40* cooler and lean the engine out to run the same temp their engine is just gonna wear out super fast now, the head doesn't give more power, all it does is camaflouge an overly lean condition. The only time I would think of using an aftermarket head is if engine is tuned right but runs at 300*+ and keep needles the same, but that like never happens. Another thing is the combustion chamber's design on aftermarket heads is rarely the same as stock or a better design, so you lose power or at least some effeciency there.
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Old 12-03-2004, 07:53 AM   #1620
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The quality and all that of the heads are great and I'm not in any way bashing the quality of their product, I just I don't feel it's needed unless in extreme conditions to try to take some overall heat away from engine just to try to kep it away from bottom of case which is like crank and bearings. Keeping heat in the cylinder and a hotter cylinder is good for more power and effeciency-runtime, anything you search for and read will pretty much say that except for the r/c related sites that people put up, those sites have more wrong than right information on them. If you search for and read anything about 2-stroke engines, snowmobiles, dirtbikes etc.. the principles will be right for like what does hotter glow plug/advanced ignition timing do or this and that.

The biggest misconception is that if you have lets say a Novarossi engine and a Picco engine, both tuned right and everything in power department setup up as closelely to each other as possible or exactly the same like pipes, gearing, clutch, fuel and plugs, run them on same track, truck, and driver at same times in the day and both engines can have different operating temps by by maybe 30* or so. Nothing is wrong, one engine isn't tuned overly lean or rich, both are tuned correctly but what the general r/c racers assume is that the engine that runs hotter makes less power and needs to be run "leaner" to make good power which isn't true. The difference in power from one engine to another or running temps come from everything you can think oif, metallurgy, deck height, glow plug, nitro%, oil %, caster vs. synthetic oil %'s, gearing, parts fit/tolerances, size of taper in sleeve and type/angle of taper, clutch setup, bearing quality, air quality (ambient temp, humidity, elevation-barometric pressure), high or low traction track, tight or small track, type of driving, pipe length and type, manifold length and diameter (basically overall exhaust length and shapes), port timings, not same # of fins are used on head of every engine or overall surface area of head, same thing for external case design, volume of crankcase, combustion chamber design, if put clean or dirty air filter on and retune, there's more that I forget or just don't know about.

The easiest way to forget about running temps or to help forget about it is that stock motors, you have lets say a super torque motor like p2k or blue endbell paradox motor than a high rpm motor like monster pro or something. They both are geared properly with different sized pinions which equates into engines by needles tuned right but more times than not the rpm type motor comes off the track hotter than the torque based motor. They both run great on the track, nothing is wrong with them, just the temperature of them is different which is nothing to be concerned about. As long as your engine runs between 190-300* I wouldn't be concerned about it as long it sounds good and feels good. You can't always see smoke coming out of the pipe while you're driving depending on what the sunlight or angles are like but little smoke means you're just on the safe side too.
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