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Old 11-10-2004, 11:51 PM   #1486
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LOL..it's the old truck with a few of the new parts on it. I got my AD2 bodies and have already got them back from the painter, now just waiting on the truck...
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Old 11-11-2004, 07:11 AM   #1487
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A-dub are the new bods out yet, I need to get a few to skipgear.
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Old 11-11-2004, 08:39 AM   #1488
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Quick question, I am running a T3 and I am having problems getting it to turn in, it pushes real bad, to the point where I am loosing alot of time in every corner...

I am running proline edges and holeshots in the rear, green springs all around and 35 weight oil, I've tried all the possibly front shock position combos with no success, I have lower the front end and that did not help any either, could I change the battery position, could that help any, I would assume I would move them back so that more weight would be available to transfer forward, or am I wrong, anything else I could try, it I could get this thing to turn I would be golden....BTW: I am running a 19 turn motor and it is on a fairly hard packed surface, indoors....
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Old 11-11-2004, 08:57 AM   #1489
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Make sure your servo is up to snuff. Trying to get a truck to whip around corners with a poor servo isn't going to happen.

Moving your battery forward will definitely help. Check www.rc10.com for setup sheets for the T3, I'm sure they still have a few there.
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Old 11-11-2004, 09:01 AM   #1490
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Aaron, Put my drake kit togther and it worked great, went to a big race here and tqed. My brakes seem to have faded ever since, my question is how do you adjust the linkage to get more or less brake?
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Old 11-11-2004, 09:22 AM   #1491
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Look on the brake rod. The collar in the back adjusts drag brake, the one in the front does full brake.

If it worked great out of the box, make sure your disc isn't glazed over; if so, rough it up with some sand paper or a hobby knife, or replace it (they will get worn and noticeably skinnier).
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Old 11-11-2004, 10:28 AM   #1492
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Aaron,

Servos up to the task HiTec 945 hi torque....I will try moving the batteries and see what that can do and will checkout rc10.com for setup sheets...

if I unbalance the spring weights, IE: less spring in the rear, what will be the end result?

thanks
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Old 11-11-2004, 01:04 PM   #1493
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Aaron,Whenever the ad2 arrives will the parts be availible withit?
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Old 11-11-2004, 05:09 PM   #1494
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WO...I just had a great idea, although it would never work in racing situations, but it would be fun to try.... take a sheet of 1000 grit sandpaper the exact shape of the brake pad and glue it directly to the metal pad. Your car would stop like none-other, but the disk would wear out way before the 30 minute mark....the thought was there though!
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Old 11-11-2004, 05:16 PM   #1495
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Please forgive me for post hoarding.....700!!YEEHAW
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Old 11-11-2004, 05:17 PM   #1496
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TigeRyan
changing the front steering blocks from 30 degrees of caster to 25 solved my steering issues the truck is much more aggressive entering the turns.
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Old 11-11-2004, 05:37 PM   #1497
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TigeRyan - If I remember correctly, most of the AE guys ran softer springs in the rear of their T3's as opposed to the fronts. Softer springs often help the car find straightline traction.
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Old 11-12-2004, 07:47 AM   #1498
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TigeRyan, I'm not sure on the T3 but on my losi too much front toe-out caused it to push badly in the corners.
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Old 11-12-2004, 08:37 AM   #1499
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Thanks everyone for all the suggestions, have made a list of things to try, gotta get to the track early and try them one at a time and see if I can find some initial turn in....straightline the truck is real stable and fast, maybe one of the fastest on the track, but man does it stink around the 180's....if I get that dialed in I will be golden....

Again, I appreciate everyones help and suggestions, I will post how they worked out....
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Old 11-12-2004, 12:08 PM   #1500
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Hey Aaron, when does Hemet race?
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