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Old 05-01-2004, 09:31 PM
  #136  
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Speedy- I kept the wing mount on...in the original lower mounting position. I just reamed two new holes into the body. They are about an 1 1/4 inch farther back than the normal holes. The rear of the body also sits a bit lower....it almost rubs the motor plate.

I personally felt that the experiment was a success, the car felt suttly (sp) different...but different none the less. If anything, it looks cool.
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Old 05-01-2004, 09:54 PM
  #137  
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Cmon be honest Chris, you took that idea off of Phelps' truck!
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Old 05-01-2004, 10:21 PM
  #138  
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Tony-all right, I'll come clean. Jeff P, Jack L, and Jason P. have been running it for a long time. My bad!
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Old 05-01-2004, 11:42 PM
  #139  
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hey aaron..got me a xxx-t now...hahahaha now we can work on the same page LOL that tc stuff just wasnt me..... what reciever and esc you use? if GT7 (i knew you were tryin to work on novak right?)...which way you got it turned wire side facin the batts or the other way? How bout placement of the stuff...would you do it midpoint of the chassis or batteries? thanks dude
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Old 05-02-2004, 02:01 AM
  #140  
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Post Losi dogbones...

Aaron - A friend of mine just got a BK2 and since one of the outdoor tracks we usually race at is often on the bumpy and loose side, he was wondering how well the dogbones setup would work under these conditions as compared to the CVDs? Would you say that the switch and it's effects would be similar for the XXX4G+ as well?? Lastly, exactly what Losi parts would he need (part #, etc.) for the dogbones setup in both the BK2 and the XXX4G+? Many Thanks once again Aaron! I'll be sure to pass on your reply and info!
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Old 05-02-2004, 05:15 PM
  #141  
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Arron-

You should tell Losi to put on the website for the Dog Bones for the GenII Trans that you also need to buy the Universal link for the axle to the bone and that you need to buy 10-32 Nuts so that you can secure the tires. I found this out the hard way by not realizing this when I ordered the parts and had to order the other parts to get the bones to work
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Old 05-03-2004, 08:49 AM
  #142  
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ok guys need some input please

right now i was thinking of getting the drake kit but right now i have a friends STOCK XXX-NT.

what i'm asking do i need the drake kit? or can i just drive this one?

i was told the drake is a lot better but all i see is that the arms and the towers are Graphite. do i need that stuff. i was told by some of the good guys that the Plastic is better and that is what they run on there truck.


and the shock shafts has that coating on it. but i like the stock shocks bodies and not the Threaded Shocks.

i see i can buy the chassis and the arms for cheap.
other than that do i need the drake?

if not i can put my money on other things like arms and towers.

thanx for your time

Dibs
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:58 AM
  #143  
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graphite is brittle in the cold.. when it's warm.. it's bulletproof.. nearly.. it will make the car more responsive.. and lighter..

I haven't ever broken a graphite part personally.. if that is the concern
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Old 05-03-2004, 10:00 AM
  #144  
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the drake is a sweet truck.. if you don't like threaded because they tend to readjust.. you just buy 4 new collars and butt them up against the stocks and use that setup as a locknut
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Old 05-03-2004, 10:19 AM
  #145  
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so just get the graphite arms and towers and i'm good. so no need for a drake.

and i heard that they will have a new drake out. i know Dub can not say a word about it. but they did come out the the new MF. so the Truck should be coming soon. i think augs or so.

thanx for you input
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Old 05-03-2004, 11:05 AM
  #146  
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Default Buggy Rear Tower

mafiaracers - My understanding with the buggy rear tower on the XXX-T is that as you were saying, it lowers the cg of the rear end, but more importantly helps prevent the excessive roll/dumping, that the losi truck is prone to...

Not that the truck is terrible (its my all time favorite r/c!!!), but from a physics/dynamics standpoint it just makes it that little bit better!

Aaron, maybe you can confirm/deny this....
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Old 05-03-2004, 11:55 AM
  #147  
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Aaron - You race Jimmy's series race this weekend ???....How'd you do ???....You going to the Mod Nats ???....If so C U thee....If not...C U @ the Shootout !!.....L8

-EG
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Old 05-03-2004, 03:36 PM
  #148  
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Tony,

Another thing that a lot of guys are doing to the front end is dremmeling down the caster block...maybe you've seen it? Chris Olson, Monty, and Dan Fritz are running the kingpin in the caster block instead of the three hole setup. So instead of running a 3-B or 3-C...its like running a 3-D and both ends are on vertical ball studs.

I dremmeled my blocks down on sunday and will try it next Friday. Are you going to be at the track build at Canby this saturday?

Later.

chris woods
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Old 05-03-2004, 03:39 PM
  #149  
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Brandon - The wires are on the battery side, located as close to the battery as possible, and in roughly the middle of the chassis' electronics mounting area.

Stealth - The dogbones will work MUCH better in the rough than CVD's will.

You can use http://www.teamlosi.com/partlist/index.htm to find part numbers for anything..pretty soon, it will be a searchable page that will find part numbers for you.

Mike - I'll let them know.

Tall Can - I think that was the theory behind it, but I also think it was just a weird experiment. The dumping problem can easily be fixed with camber links (more importantly, roll center) by using the Trinity rear hubs, instead of using a completely different shock tower.

EG - I was there..but only running on a couple hours of sleep; prom was Saturday night, and we left town at 4 AM Sunday morning. Needless to say, I wasn't at my best, and walked away with two 5th's.

Mod Nats are during Finals week, so I won't make it this year. I'll see ya at Shootout, where I'll be running MOD!
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Old 05-04-2004, 08:46 AM
  #150  
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Aaron,

Where and when can I get the new Trinity Front Crank Balancer for the TC3?

Also, when will the new 2 degree TC rims be released?

Thank you!
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