Nitro Trailer
02-26-2010, 06:52 PM
#16
Landscaper
it's a 3250watt but it's a cheaper brand and right now I can't think of the name and trialer is put up for winter, currently I'm only running outlets, floresent light, and radio and fan...I'm planning on adding some stuff this summer like a little fridge and maybe a few other things. I posted on another thread that I was having issues with lights flickering slightly and with some of your guys help I think we figured out I'm not getting clean power. When weather warms up I'm gonna try a few things with it to try and get to work properly or I guess I'll have to buy something diff. I didn't go extravagent with generator cause I figured I really didn't need anything special for what I wanted but guess I shoulda went with better.
it's a 3250watt but it's a cheaper brand and right now I can't think of the name and trialer is put up for winter, currently I'm only running outlets, floresent light, and radio and fan...I'm planning on adding some stuff this summer like a little fridge and maybe a few other things. I posted on another thread that I was having issues with lights flickering slightly and with some of your guys help I think we figured out I'm not getting clean power. When weather warms up I'm gonna try a few things with it to try and get to work properly or I guess I'll have to buy something diff. I didn't go extravagent with generator cause I figured I really didn't need anything special for what I wanted but guess I shoulda went with better.
02-26-2010, 07:01 PM
#17
Frank, I will try to post some pics over the weekend when I have mine out of the garage. One thing I wanted to address specifically which you inquired about. The depth I used for the counter was 24 inches. It is the prefab one that you get at Home depot with the built in 4 inch back splash. The 24 inch depth IMO is really a bit much.
I think 18 inch would be just as effective. Although it doesn't sound like much, if you get a 8 foot wide trailer and go with 18 tops, you could line both side of the trailer with counter space allowing you to go shorter on the trailer overall. You would be using 3' of the 8' for counter giving you about 5 feet for chair movement and traffic. Just an option to consider.
I think 18 inch would be just as effective. Although it doesn't sound like much, if you get a 8 foot wide trailer and go with 18 tops, you could line both side of the trailer with counter space allowing you to go shorter on the trailer overall. You would be using 3' of the 8' for counter giving you about 5 feet for chair movement and traffic. Just an option to consider.
02-26-2010, 07:17 PM
#18
Frank,
The Tiger's lair thread is the best one to look at. I think there's a coupl eof other threads that have other racers trailers and such. Be worth a look.
I was thinking of something along the same lines, though maybe not as big. Something that I could tow behind my RV and have a decent ammount of room. There are a few things that I'd be looking at as well.
How heavy do you want the trailer to be when done?
Depending on what you put in for work area and creature comforts, the trailer could go on the heavy side before you even load your stuff.
What are you basic needs for the trailer or in the trailer?
As in will it only be used for RC, or other things. Threr could be a price difference when buying the trailer.
What do you want to have in there for creature comforts?
Fridge, TV, Stero, A/C, air compressor, generator, lighting, and the like.
I know the A-Main trailer that those guys take to big races is very basic, yet gets the job done.
Another thing I was looking at doing was to have some type of RV awning on the trailer. That way you could have the option of pitting outside and in. As others have said, you build it and guys will hit you up to pit with you..
The other thing I was looking at was even weight distribuition when the trailer was done and packed. Helps to keep from buying tires for the trailer too often. It also keep the weight from being too far forward or back on the hitch.
What ever you decide, I'm sure you'll do it up right. At least you, Cary, and Doogie will be pitting in style. LOL..
The Tiger's lair thread is the best one to look at. I think there's a coupl eof other threads that have other racers trailers and such. Be worth a look.
I was thinking of something along the same lines, though maybe not as big. Something that I could tow behind my RV and have a decent ammount of room. There are a few things that I'd be looking at as well.
How heavy do you want the trailer to be when done?
Depending on what you put in for work area and creature comforts, the trailer could go on the heavy side before you even load your stuff.
What are you basic needs for the trailer or in the trailer?
As in will it only be used for RC, or other things. Threr could be a price difference when buying the trailer.
What do you want to have in there for creature comforts?
Fridge, TV, Stero, A/C, air compressor, generator, lighting, and the like.
I know the A-Main trailer that those guys take to big races is very basic, yet gets the job done.
Another thing I was looking at doing was to have some type of RV awning on the trailer. That way you could have the option of pitting outside and in. As others have said, you build it and guys will hit you up to pit with you..
The other thing I was looking at was even weight distribuition when the trailer was done and packed. Helps to keep from buying tires for the trailer too often. It also keep the weight from being too far forward or back on the hitch.
What ever you decide, I'm sure you'll do it up right. At least you, Cary, and Doogie will be pitting in style. LOL..
02-26-2010, 08:16 PM
#21
Frank,
You're forgetting the most important thing. A wash tub (see his avatar). LOL.
Look at the tiger's lair then and see how he insulated the roof, I would think that is a must for the summer. Medera in the middle of summer anyone? Also, you might want to go with some out side plugs, just in case you need them.
Batts? Good idea, but could be a bunch of extra weight you may not want. If you go with those new style Honda gen sets that are super quiet, you may not need that batts. Unless you don't want to have extra gas around.
Actually, alot of that thread could help you out. I liked the wiring and lighting pics, some good things there that make sence to me.
You're forgetting the most important thing. A wash tub (see his avatar). LOL.
Look at the tiger's lair then and see how he insulated the roof, I would think that is a must for the summer. Medera in the middle of summer anyone? Also, you might want to go with some out side plugs, just in case you need them.
Batts? Good idea, but could be a bunch of extra weight you may not want. If you go with those new style Honda gen sets that are super quiet, you may not need that batts. Unless you don't want to have extra gas around.
Actually, alot of that thread could help you out. I liked the wiring and lighting pics, some good things there that make sence to me.
02-27-2010, 02:59 AM
#24
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
This can get fun fast. I work at a trailer place and build out 2-3 a week from simple to full blown money pits. Gen. sets- Low end units work but are loud and make durty power, ie. flikering lites, chargers that go puff, AC's that are weak. Around 7-8 hundred. High end units done right like quiet and small WITH warannty 1600 and up. Unless your going to do more things than pit rig, don't use a ramp back door. Barn doors instead. When you choke on that wire that helps pull 'em up and trip on it when running in for a hot batt. you'll see. AC's- To save money use a window shaker mounted low to the floor near front. The weight of that thing will brake walls. One axle is ok but two is better. Rides better, has brakes, and when you have a blow out, and you will, your not going to be stuck on the side of the road after you trash the hub. Think big tow truck! Need more thoughts? PM me. Happy hauling.
02-27-2010, 06:22 AM
#25
This can get fun fast. I work at a trailer place and build out 2-3 a week from simple to full blown money pits. Gen. sets- Low end units work but are loud and make durty power, ie. flikering lites, chargers that go puff, AC's that are weak. Around 7-8 hundred. High end units done right like quiet and small WITH warannty 1600 and up. Unless your going to do more things than pit rig, don't use a ramp back door. Barn doors instead. When you choke on that wire that helps pull 'em up and trip on it when running in for a hot batt. you'll see. AC's- To save money use a window shaker mounted low to the floor near front. The weight of that thing will brake walls. One axle is ok but two is better. Rides better, has brakes, and when you have a blow out, and you will, your not going to be stuck on the side of the road after you trash the hub. Think big tow truck! Need more thoughts? PM me. Happy hauling.
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/g...erator-4434023
02-27-2010, 07:09 AM
#26
...
Last edited by mracer; 02-27-2010 at 06:53 PM.
02-27-2010, 08:32 AM
#27
Frank,
The first thing to consider is your tow vehicle and it's capabilities/limitations. You DON'T want to be under powered or under braked on the tow vehicle.
I've got a trailer... It's a 16' TPD race trailer..(designed for a full size sprint car or import road racer). GVWR is 7,000# Unladen weight is right at 2,940# (stock empty) Make sure you check these ratings on anything you are considering... You've already stated you have a tow rating of 6500#
I've often thought about taking the trailer and doing a conversion however I need to use it for my business as well. I've used it as a temp pit trailer at a few 2-Day events but... for the most part I don't take it to many races... reason..
1-Cost of additional Fuel
2-The California Speed Limit with towing is only 55... That Sucks!
3-Just more trouble to hook up, unhook when it's just myself running to a race.
I could see where it would be more cost/time effective for bigger events such as 2+ day races, or when you can count on a race buddy to share the space, time, and extra expenses... Good Luck!
The first thing to consider is your tow vehicle and it's capabilities/limitations. You DON'T want to be under powered or under braked on the tow vehicle.
I've got a trailer... It's a 16' TPD race trailer..(designed for a full size sprint car or import road racer). GVWR is 7,000# Unladen weight is right at 2,940# (stock empty) Make sure you check these ratings on anything you are considering... You've already stated you have a tow rating of 6500#
I've often thought about taking the trailer and doing a conversion however I need to use it for my business as well. I've used it as a temp pit trailer at a few 2-Day events but... for the most part I don't take it to many races... reason..
1-Cost of additional Fuel
2-The California Speed Limit with towing is only 55... That Sucks!
3-Just more trouble to hook up, unhook when it's just myself running to a race.
I could see where it would be more cost/time effective for bigger events such as 2+ day races, or when you can count on a race buddy to share the space, time, and extra expenses... Good Luck!
02-27-2010, 12:56 PM
#28
02-28-2010, 02:22 AM
#30
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
So whats your opinion on this gen got great reviews but is cheap
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/g...erator-4434023
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tools/g...erator-4434023