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Old 03-02-2010, 11:04 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by skoalisbad4me View Post
i really dont see any need to run those expensive losi or protec batteries in just a starter box. i run the cheapo zippy lipo 4000mah 30c. i think it cost me like $21 and it works great! i charge it and i can jump my motor for about a full month on one charge and that is racing every weekend and practice during the week. only problem is that it comes from hong kong but i had it in about 6 days

I use to think that til, my cheap lipo blew up in my last starter box. That's just what happened to me.

Last edited by geejay; 03-03-2010 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:24 AM   #32
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I use to think that til, my cheap lipo blew up in my last starter box. Thats just what happend to be.
Just curious what brand lipo was it?
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:39 AM   #33
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i have been using my zippy lipo for about a year and a half now and it has not swollen, ballooned, or anything else bad that these lipos sometimes do. and until about a month ago it had never even been balance charged. that is just my experience. i will never buy another expensive lipo for a starter box
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:24 PM   #34
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Here's how I've mine wired up.

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Old 03-02-2010, 02:29 PM   #35
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I have always used the stock wires and just put in a Deans connector .

Far as batteries , I`ve used Turnigy and Zippy lipos in my 1/10 cars/trucks and in starter boxes for a while now and run better then the $100 lipos I have . Never any problems at all . The most common problem for a lipo to blowup or swell up is from user error - over discharging is the most common , second is not charging correctly .
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:38 PM   #36
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Here's how I've mine wired up.

Am I looking at your diagram you posted right and the switch and the little washer that makes contact when you push Down on the box is completely taken out? The reason I ask is the wire that comes from the on/off switch and goes to the piece you push down and when you do makes contact completing the circuit making the motors spin seems to be an area if concern for me. I'm not sure if anyone else has noticed this but while looking at my box tonight I noticed that the metal piece that the washer makes contact with is starting to wear down on one side of it. I put the lipo in and sure enough when I hit the box it's arcing enough to wear the metal down. Is there a fix fir this that I'm not aware of? I'd say one more race day and that side if the contacts will be done for on my box. (2 sets of contacts washer completes the circuit) I guess I could add a washer because looking at the contact that's still good it appears to have a slight lip on it. So when the other completely flattens out I guess I can add a washer but eventually it's not going to make contact anymore. Is anyone just bypassing this and letting the starter wheel(what I call it) just spin from the minute the on/off switch is flipped? Help!
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:14 PM   #37
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Am I looking at your diagram you posted right and the switch and the little washer that makes contact when you push Down on the box is completely taken out? The reason I ask is the wire that comes from the on/off switch and goes to the piece you push down and when you do makes contact completing the circuit making the motors spin seems to be an area if concern for me. I'm not sure if anyone else has noticed this but while looking at my box tonight I noticed that the metal piece that the washer makes contact with is starting to wear down on one side of it. I put the lipo in and sure enough when I hit the box it's arcing enough to wear the metal down. Is there a fix fir this that I'm not aware of? I'd say one more race day and that side if the contacts will be done for on my box. (2 sets of contacts washer completes the circuit) I guess I could add a washer because looking at the contact that's still good it appears to have a slight lip on it. So when the other completely flattens out I guess I can add a washer but eventually it's not going to make contact anymore. Is anyone just bypassing this and letting the starter wheel(what I call it) just spin from the minute the on/off switch is flipped? Help!
In the diagram, i've left all the internal circuit of the starter box alone, you don't need to modify it (unless if it needs fixing). Just the wires where the battery is supposed to go, you install a male deans plug and on your battery you install a Y connection one goes to a wall to the banana plugs and at the other end you install a fem deans plug.
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:17 AM   #38
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i got that same one too, but i was concerned with the lights staying on all the time that it would add to the battery depletion.
The first time I ran lipo in my buggy I put the v-reg between the battery and switch. Well it had a led on it. And i mounted it with servo tape under my reciever. out of site out of mind. Next fri I went to prep for a race and I had very well rounded battery!
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:05 AM   #39
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The first time I ran lipo in my buggy I put the v-reg between the battery and switch. Well it had a led on it. And i mounted it with servo tape under my reciever. out of site out of mind. Next fri I went to prep for a race and I had very well rounded battery!
DOH! that was my fear
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:34 AM   #40
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Regulator needs to be after the switch, otherwise it will drain the Lipo even when turned off.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:37 AM   #41
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Just curious what brand lipo was it?
Not sure bro - got it off EBAY ------hahahahaha dont say it...
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