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Old 02-03-2010, 11:02 AM   #16
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You guys went from temp guns to boiling water - - lol - -

Temp gun are not accurate and you can by 3 of the most expensive guns on the market and they will not read the same. Im not one to use a temp gun all the time. When I first run before I open her up all the way, I will make sure its at lease 170 degrees after a few laps I wll bring it in. I know my engines and know what they sound like and better yet how the feel whn im drining. if it feels good i will take a temp for a guideline. as long as there smoke, Im good.....
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:05 AM   #17
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Can a high dollar temp gun tell you the fuel air mixture? That is what matters, everything else is a variable and a by product.
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:19 AM   #18
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I have never seen temp guns be the same from brand to brand or even between 2 of the same model, I have even seen exergen guns varyseveral times but not by much.

I havent checked my gun in years & dont know or care if its acurate all I care about is if its the same every time & it feels like it is. I use my gun all the time but I use it like Franchise suggested,as a reference to what feels good.
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:35 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by bherzog513 View Post
Can a high dollar temp gun tell you the fuel air mixture? That is what matters, everything else is a variable and a by product.
Heat is a fact and ignoring it could cause you to lose a 500 engine
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Old 02-03-2010, 12:30 PM   #20
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we had three different temp guns all were +/- 10 degrees from each the only time I use a gun is when I do any heat cycles but what about reading the temp and understanding why its high / low??.

Tune is a huge factor but what about traction, clutch, plug, weather, shim and all the other variables involved. Many just make the motor rich to bring down the temp but is that the reason?? OMG I'm still trying to figure this one out still learning and probably will never get that's why i don't temp my engines any more. if i have good power , smoke, plug issues and no detonation pits, on the head button Im all good.
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:08 PM   #21
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The reason I started this is because I'm in the process of breaking in Werks B5 and am trying to get it up to temp. As someone mentioned before 200 F is the magic minumum, running extremely rich is just as bad as extremely lean. I thought a 170 reading on my gun was around 200 but after checking I'm comfortable saying it's probably only 10 F off. Thanks for the specific answers regarding the bp of water, u guys r funny, everything stated was true but c'mon for a ballpark test

We've all been there, coming off the track not trusting our own gun, using someone elses trying to guess which is 'more real'. I now just have a little confidence in my gun, if I read 290 F and think I might be seeing smoke and she's pulling wheelies everywhere w/ pinging sounds, I'll richen it up!
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Old 02-03-2010, 01:51 PM   #22
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i tune to sound and use the temp gun as a saftey thing so i dont fry my motor. X2 in indoor tracks were its hard to here your own engine.
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Old 02-03-2010, 08:26 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Heat is a fact and ignoring it could cause you to lose a 500 engine
The thread is about temp gun accuracy, as if 15 degrees difference means something. NOT 300!


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you say-.....

Thats my new signature on this forum
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Old 02-03-2010, 08:26 PM   #24
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keep token....
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:21 PM   #25
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I dont think accuracy is too big of deal. For me, consistency is much more valuable. A $5 dollar temp sensor that consistently pumps out the same reading is much more valuable than a $300 dollar gun that gives an accurate reading some of the time.
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:30 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by marshon50 View Post

Tune for performance, then check temp as a reference.
cheers for this only use temp as a refrence also note the air temp at which you got that motor temp you gun will not vary that much may not be degree wise accurate but it will tend to be consistant

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Can a high dollar temp gun tell you the fuel air mixture? That is what matters, everything else is a variable and a by product.
cheers for this even the engine manufacture will not give you a temp at which it should run as the variables change and the optimal tune today provided a 225 temp but last week was 285 but it wasnt raining last week.

I typically temp after my quals to see what its and to how it was running to konw what i want to tweak for my main and quite possibly nothing i have rarely turned my screws on my carb once its set after breakin i do like to make sure that i get the motor hotenough during the breakin procedure so i do keep a close eye on it with temp gun to maintain 200 to 210 and then to cool back down before i run another tank. like with everything there is am multitude of opinions about it

back to the accuracy part there is not two guns dead on and in fact if you read the fine print it will say that they are + or - x degrees but really if it runs great and you temp it at 200 then run it if you tweak it and runs better and comes in at 230 run that if you like it better or tweak it a bit more and see that is not running as good cause its lean boggin and temps at 280 then go back to the other setting you like
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Old 02-04-2010, 07:42 AM   #27
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The variation for the high end guns is very small. Guns like the Exergen DX and Fluke 68 are certified to 1% error; at the temps we usually see that is 2.5-4 degrees. They cost big bucks because the results are repeatable. The Fluke can do this at distances of 3-5' for our applications!
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Old 02-04-2010, 04:55 PM   #28
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doesnt matter how much you pay for a temp gun, or what you test it against because it could be wrong also. the only real way to make sure your temp gun is accurate is to send it off to a calibration lab and they'll test it against the american standards of what is actually considered 100,200,300,400deg etc..and if your temp gun is good it should be + or - 5 degF, or +or- 2degC

they will also send you a sheet showing the reading they took and what your temp gun read and at least you would now for sure how far or close your temp gun is.
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Old 02-04-2010, 11:18 PM   #29
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From Exergens Web site. By the way, my Exergen tested out perfectly.

Checking Calibration of IRt/c or D-Series with Boiling Water Exergen's Microscanner D-Series are designed as highly accurate and reliable temperature references as well as fast easy-to-use infrared scanners. Since all components making up a D-Series are drift-free there is never a requirement to calibrate the instrument once it leaves the factory, and no calibration means is provided on the instrument (except certain high temperature models). Accordingly, if the D-Series calibration has shifted from its factory setting, it requires repair since a component has failed. Similarly, non-adjustable IRt/c models are factory calibrated for life, and if they do not reproduce their calibration, they should be considered failed. Unless you have technical experience with and have a laboratory infrared "blackbody," this calibration checking technique is recommended by the factory. Boiling water is a physical constant, easily used, and requires no technical set-up of elaborate equipment or checking of traceable standards. Boiling Point of Water The open boiling point of (reasonably pure) water is affected by only one factor: barometric pressure. The standard 212F (100C) boiling point is for a barometric pressure of 30.00 inches of Hg (mercury), or in metric terms, 1 Bar (1000 millibars). This is "normal" at sea level. Barometric pressure can be affected by elevation above sea level, and by weather conditions. Elevation Correction: The boiling point of water is lowered by approximately 2F (1C) for every 1000 ft (300 m) above sea level with no unusual weather conditions. If your weather is "normal" and you are not using the barometric pressure method, you can simply use the following corrections. Elevation Boiling Temperature Sea level 212F 100C 1000 ft (300 meters) 210 99 2000 ft (600m) 208 98 3000 ft (900 m) 206 97 4000 ft (1200 m) 204 96 5000 ft (1500 m) 202 95
Weather Conditions: If you use this method, you do not need to put in a correction for elevation above sea level. It will be automatic by using the current barometric pressure dominating your area. Barometric pressure can be much lower during especially stormy conditions (low pressure areas), and much higher during extremely cool and dry conditions (high pressure areas). Consult the weather reports on TV, in your local newspaper, or call a weather service office for current barometric conditions in your area. Barometric pressure correction factors: 2F / inch Hg (1C / 30 millibars) change from 30.00 in. Hg (1 Bar) Add to the boiling temperature for higher than normal pressure. Subtract for lower than normal pressures. Note: Always clean the sensor lens prior to calibration testing. A cotton swab with a mild cleaner such as alcohol works well. Checking Calibration Required Equipment: Metal pot with cover, minimum 4" (10 cm) tall. Solid paint marker or thin opaque tape.
Use a metal pot, with cover, for boiling water. Fill the pot at least 1/2 fill with water. Use the solid paint marker supplied with your D-Series, or a piece of opaque (non-see through) tape, or a thin electrical tape, to put a measuring spot at least 1in. (25 mm) in diameter on the outside surface of the pot. Make sure the measuring spot is at, or slightly below, the water level. Bring the water to a RAPID boil. Tilt the cover SLIGHTLY so that the water does not boil over. The condensing steam on the inside of the pot along with the rapidly boiling water will force the outside surfaces of the pot to be within a fraction of a degree of the temperature of the boiling water. (The temperature drop through the wall thickness of the average pot for boiling water is very small and can be ignored.) 5. Briefly touch the nosepiece flat onto the black mark and note the temperature reading. For an IRt/c, bring the sensor as close as possible without touching. The reading should be within 2% of the actual boiling point (for example 2C for 100C boiling point). If the reading is not within these limits, the instrument has a failed component and should be returned to Exergen for repair. Please call for an RMA number prior to shipment. For the IRt/c refer to Tech Note No. 73 for specifications.


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