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Old 02-02-2010, 08:34 PM   #46
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Could you guys with Jammin shocks do me a big favor and measure your front and rear shock droop on your buggies? (top eye to bottom eye of shock when the wheels are of they ground and the shocks are on the buggy) Thanks.
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:16 AM   #47
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Could you guys with Jammin shocks do me a big favor and measure your front and rear shock droop on your buggies? (top eye to bottom eye of shock when the wheels are of they ground and the shocks are on the buggy) Thanks.
almost full droop, toned back just enough to not pop the shocks.

105mm front

123mm rear

i prefer to let the sway bars do the work


oops my mistake that was at full droop, wheels off the ground. at ride height the fronts are 95mm front and 115 rear this is after setting the car down and jabbing the shocks a few times. if i were to do the drop and settle it would be about the same.
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Last edited by looper; 02-03-2010 at 05:24 AM.
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Old 02-03-2010, 04:53 AM   #48
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Dude, I aint gonna Bash, But beware of the Dragon racing stuff..Trust me..
what bad experiences have you had with dragon racing? I just won a pair of the front c-hubs off of ebay.
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Old 02-03-2010, 05:20 AM   #49
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what bad experiences have you had with dragon racing? I just won a pair of the front c-hubs off of ebay.
from others who have run their products i have heard that the aluminum is alot softer than they claim and that i should avoid the chassis a little bit more than i would an STD.
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:42 AM   #50
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what bad experiences have you had with dragon racing? I just won a pair of the front c-hubs off of ebay.
yea supposedly has soft aluminum and apparently chassis fold like pancakes...since you already made the purchase just have some stockers on hand is what I'd do
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:47 AM   #51
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Does anyone know the difference between the x1x and the x2? .... any info would be appreciated.
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Old 02-03-2010, 07:51 AM   #52
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off the top of my head
x2 is 4mm longer(not sure where)
carbon f/r towers
truggy gearing
48/16 Spur/CB
and I believe the motor is a little further foward
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Old 02-03-2010, 09:47 AM   #53
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Thank you!
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:21 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by NitroLuver View Post
off the top of my head
x2 is 4mm longer(not sure where)
carbon f/r towers
truggy gearing
48/16 Spur/CB
and I believe the motor is a little further foward
just to add to what he said:
the chassis is 4mm longer in the rear.
also has spiral cut ring and pinions.
44/17 spur/CB.
also lightend outdrives and center drive shafts (which sucks by the way they wear way to quick IMO).
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Old 02-03-2010, 10:23 AM   #55
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Originally Posted by fast11970 View Post
Dude, I aint gonna Bash, But beware of the Dragon racing stuff..Trust me..
yeah i do agree with you dragon racing are not good but i was talking about the one that comes with the pro kit. the ofna CNC brace. i have a dragon racing steering top plate and thats the only thing ill get from dragon racing, i have ran that piece for over an year with no problems.
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:00 PM   #56
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just to add to what he said:
the chassis is 4mm longer in the rear.
also has spiral cut ring and pinions.
44/17 spur/CB.
also lightend outdrives and center drive shafts (which sucks by the way they wear way to quick IMO).
also the center diff mount is different as it no longer uses posts
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Old 02-03-2010, 02:37 PM   #57
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You can use almost all of the parts from the X2 on the x1 without a new chassis, except for the radio tray. Should I run a aluminum or plastic rear chassis brace?
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:24 PM   #58
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You can use almost all of the parts from the X2 on the x1 without a new chassis, except for the radio tray. Should I run a aluminum or plastic rear chassis brace?
king headz rear. and for the x2 buggy you use the king headz rear one for the x1crt.
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:41 PM   #59
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You can use almost all of the parts from the X2 on the x1 without a new chassis, except for the radio tray. Should I run a aluminum or plastic rear chassis brace?
also the center drive shafts are different. but i would run the aluminum CNC one that comes with the kit. i try to stay away from most plastic parts because they are more proned to breaking or causing something else to bend or break.
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Old 02-03-2010, 03:57 PM   #60
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That can depend, sometimes the plastic will flex instead of breaking or cracking, and then prevent other parts will crack. I'm still going cnc anyways.
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