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Old 02-01-2010, 04:14 PM   #31
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Thanks for the replies, i think i will stick with the 5-7-2 that is in there. it aint broken so i will not fix it.
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:17 PM   #32
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With the price of the new gearing it might make sence to just buy the x2 conversion...
about less than 30 bucks for a complete brand new diff on ebay...
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Old 02-01-2010, 05:19 PM   #33
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Thanks for the replies, i think i will stick with the 5-7-2 that is in there. it aint broken so i will not fix it.
man i think your the only person that thinks that way when it comes to RC. i just change setup until i find something that i like. then ill leave it that way until it doesnt work anymore.
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Old 02-01-2010, 06:58 PM   #34
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about less than 30 bucks for a complete brand new diff on ebay...
I just won the 2 diff's and the 2 pinion gears for 40.00 on ebay so now I just need the 17t clutch bell and 44t ring gear and my x1-x2 hybrid will be complete. Already have the big bore shocks from and X2 as well just installed today. Those things were pretty close to the upper arm in the front it actually looks like it touched, but when you press the car down it clears barely without touching. I randomly purchased a jammin cnc center diff mount on ebay for an X1 and I just realized after installing it that it is the same as the one that comes on the X2 which no longer uses the center posts. Thanks for all the help Jmaxey51.
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Old 02-01-2010, 07:32 PM   #35
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I just won the 2 diff's and the 2 pinion gears for 40.00 on ebay so now I just need the 17t clutch bell and 44t ring gear and my x1-x2 hybrid will be complete. Already have the big bore shocks from and X2 as well just installed today. Those things were pretty close to the upper arm in the front it actually looks like it touched, but when you press the car down it clears barely without touching. I randomly purchased a jammin cnc center diff mount on ebay for an X1 and I just realized after installing it that it is the same as the one that comes on the X2 which no longer uses the center posts. Thanks for all the help Jmaxey51.
no problem and your are almost all the way to an x2 all you need now is chassis and center dog bones and youll be set. i saw someone get a chassis off ebay for 5 bucks. so you may luck out if your patient. but if you want to get the shock towers do NOT buy the carbon fiber ones they will break i would keep running the x1 ones or pay the extra for the CNC ones. i hope you enjoy your upgrade. also on the shocks they come awfully close but they will be just fine.
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Old 02-01-2010, 07:49 PM   #36
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Just FYI, I ran The X2 I like the carbon fiber towers, and Yes I cracked one, I was the same tumble that would have bent an aluiminum tower, and the handling was the same, a lil off but still racey, I was at the Nitro Challenge, An the Jammin guys hooked me up with a new tower, (CF) and newer cracked or damaged another, Aluminium is fine and can be bent back, but they break to, Overall the X 2 Handled great, I had some heartburn with the drive shaft wear, the X2 diff cups are awesome, but the dogbone pins wear really fast, you can change them if you have the right tool, and its cheap (Pins $2.00-the tool- over $100.00) But if you keep up, and just change the pins, its worth every penny, the platform is a good one, and from the X-1 to the two, its a big improvement, you just need to be ready to wheel it! It is a big change from the X1, I actually ran 10k in all the diffs and started to work backwards to find my set up, the 5-5-2 was to loopy for me, I have changed brands, but I still respect the Jammin, I ran it for a while, the X2 is more nimble and less forgiving than th X1, but if you can wheel it, it is definatly a contender.
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Old 02-02-2010, 03:31 PM   #37
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right now i have an x1 with x2 gearing and diffs a center diff mount. I just got it and haven't run it yet, and i rebuilt the diffs with 5-5-2, and i'm wondering if i should run it as is or change it to 5-7-2
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Old 02-02-2010, 04:01 PM   #38
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right now i have an x1 with x2 gearing and diffs a center diff mount. I just got it and haven't run it yet, and i rebuilt the diffs with 5-5-2, and i'm wondering if i should run it as is or change it to 5-7-2
both work great i have ran both setups but you will just have to try both to see which one you like. that is driver preference. i liked 5-5-2 a little better but not a whole lot better but im trying a new setup at the next race 7-5-2. its all driver preference, but you have good starting point.
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:22 PM   #39
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I'll test it out how it is, and then work from there depending on how it drives. I'm very excited to see how it runs, I got it used in a trade as a X1CR FTE, and I've slowly ebayed it up to a X1.5CR FTE Hybrid. Here's what it basically has:

X1 CR FTE Chassis, fuel tank, cf radio tray, front suspension, and cnc front chassis brace

X1 CR Sport plastic rear chassis brace

X2 CR center diff, diff mount, fiber disk brakes, and diff mount cf top plate

X2 CR Throttle setup, cf shock towers (may get front cnc aluminum x2 one, or switch back to aluminum x1 towers), steering servo mount, 44T spur, 17T cb, radio box

Dragon racing rear hubs, rear driveshafts, and rear toe blocks

Losi 8ight-B front and rear shocks

Hotbodies D8 front and rear spiral cut gears

Jammin Aluminum Steering top plate, Steel flywheel, and Red Clutch shoes with 1 1.1 spring and 2 1.0 springs

Jp3 pipe, DX3.0, and Picco Evo-2 P7-R engine, Proline Crowd Pleazer Body, hitec servos
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:33 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Muggydude View Post
I'll test it out how it is, and then work from there depending on how it drives. I'm very excited to see how it runs, I got it used in a trade as a X1CR FTE, and I've slowly ebayed it up to a X1.5CR FTE Hybrid. Here's what it basically has:

X1 CR FTE Chassis, fuel tank, cf radio tray, front suspension, and cnc front chassis brace

X1 CR Sport plastic rear chassis brace

X2 CR center diff, diff mount, fiber disk brakes, and diff mount cf top plate

X2 CR Throttle setup, cf shock towers (may get front cnc aluminum x2 one, or switch back to aluminum x1 towers), steering servo mount, 44T spur, 17T cb, radio box

Dragon racing rear hubs, rear driveshafts, and rear toe blocks

Losi 8ight-B front and rear shocks

Hotbodies D8 front and rear spiral cut gears

Jammin Aluminum Steering top plate, Steel flywheel, and Red Clutch shoes with 1 1.1 spring and 2 1.0 springs

Jp3 pipe, DX3.0, and Picco Evo-2 P7-R engine, Proline Crowd Pleazer Body, hitec servos
the rear aluminum chassis brace makes a big difference IMO but its not a huge deal. and on the cf front tower take some super glue or C-A glue and run it around the edge the tower, it makes it alot stronger. mine started to fray apart the first time i drove it but i put that on it and no more damage has accured. also on the shocks are you getting full down travel? like are the a-arms touching the chassis when you hold it in the air? because i thought losi shocks are shorter than jammin shocks but i may be wrong. they should work fine either way but if they are shorter make sure to make your droop screws are touching the chassis or it will will ruin the shocks. but you have one awesome setup i hope you enjoy it.
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Old 02-02-2010, 05:44 PM   #41
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I have the rear aluminum chassis braces, should I switch it out with the plastic one? I thought the plastic was better. but maybe not. I'll do the glue trick, would thin insta-cure work well?
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Old 02-02-2010, 06:37 PM   #42
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I have the rear aluminum chassis braces, should I switch it out with the plastic one? I thought the plastic was better. but maybe not. I'll do the glue trick, would thin insta-cure work well?
the plastic one flexes more and i have seen people bend chassis with the plastic one tho. but you can try them both and see. also on the insta-cure you could try it and see and if it doesnt work you can get a new one off ebay for less than 10 bucks. but that should work fine.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:25 PM   #43
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I'll switch it back to the aluminum. I think someone used the plastic to help with low speed on power push. we'll see. You were right about the shocks, I think I'll sell them and pick up a set of Jammin 16mm big bores.
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Old 02-02-2010, 07:57 PM   #44
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the rear aluminum chassis brace makes a big difference IMO but its not a huge deal. and on the cf front tower take some super glue or C-A glue and run it around the edge the tower, it makes it alot stronger. mine started to fray apart the first time i drove it but i put that on it and no more damage has accured. also on the shocks are you getting full down travel? like are the a-arms touching the chassis when you hold it in the air? because i thought losi shocks are shorter than jammin shocks but i may be wrong. they should work fine either way but if they are shorter make sure to make your droop screws are touching the chassis or it will will ruin the shocks. but you have one awesome setup i hope you enjoy it.
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Old 02-02-2010, 08:26 PM   #45
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It came with the buggy, they look good so far. i can always switch back to stock.
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