What is the monthly cost of racing?
01-13-2010, 01:59 PM
#16
For my own sanity I would rather not know exactly what I spent in 09. It was my first year racing so all New equipment buggy and truggy (Mugen) 4 new motors, spare parts, electronics, remote, about 12 sets of tires, so on and so on. I raced nine big regional races and made about 15 club races. I guesstimated that I spent somewhere around 7,000 last year on RC That includes lots of alcohol and travel expenses.
01-13-2010, 02:09 PM
#17
I haven't seen any 1/8th E racers claim that it's truely cheaper than Nitro AND win races.
$350+ for an Esc and motor. $100+ every time the motor fails and 40-50 to rebuild most speedos after the 1.3 day warranty runs out.
I'm going E not to save money, but because we run combined and are only running 15 min mains. The E car has an advantage, especially cause noone in the north takes pit stops seriously. Hopefully the classes grow enough to split n and E soon.
One weekend costs me:
$25- entry fee
$10- transportation
$10-food at track
$25-50 replacement parts or improved performance parts.
Overall I think I spend about $ 1500-2000 a year on gear/cars/radios in this hobby. Not including the stuff above.
Obviously I left out the initial cost.........
$350+ for an Esc and motor. $100+ every time the motor fails and 40-50 to rebuild most speedos after the 1.3 day warranty runs out.
I'm going E not to save money, but because we run combined and are only running 15 min mains. The E car has an advantage, especially cause noone in the north takes pit stops seriously. Hopefully the classes grow enough to split n and E soon.
One weekend costs me:
$25- entry fee
$10- transportation
$10-food at track
$25-50 replacement parts or improved performance parts.
Overall I think I spend about $ 1500-2000 a year on gear/cars/radios in this hobby. Not including the stuff above.
Obviously I left out the initial cost.........
01-13-2010, 02:28 PM
#18
I haven't seen any 1/8th E racers claim that it's truely cheaper than Nitro AND win races.
$350+ for an Esc and motor. $100+ every time the motor fails and 40-50 to rebuild most speedos after the 1.3 day warranty runs out.
I'm going E not to save money, but because we run combined and are only running 15 min mains. The E car has an advantage, especially cause noone in the north takes pit stops seriously. Hopefully the classes grow enough to split n and E soon.
One weekend costs me:
$25- entry fee
$10- transportation
$10-food at track
$25-50 replacement parts or improved performance parts.
Overall I think I spend about $ 1500-2000 a year on gear/cars/radios in this hobby. Not including the stuff above.
Obviously I left out the initial cost.........
$350+ for an Esc and motor. $100+ every time the motor fails and 40-50 to rebuild most speedos after the 1.3 day warranty runs out.
I'm going E not to save money, but because we run combined and are only running 15 min mains. The E car has an advantage, especially cause noone in the north takes pit stops seriously. Hopefully the classes grow enough to split n and E soon.
One weekend costs me:
$25- entry fee
$10- transportation
$10-food at track
$25-50 replacement parts or improved performance parts.
Overall I think I spend about $ 1500-2000 a year on gear/cars/radios in this hobby. Not including the stuff above.
Obviously I left out the initial cost.........
$25 for club racing, or bigger races? i only pay $17 for the race, fee for one car. and bring my own food, and drinks for allday.
what do you mean about people, up north dont take pit stops seriously?
01-13-2010, 02:42 PM
#19
I don't know what I spend, but it is way too much. I would say at least $200 a month on entry fees, misc parts, and other stuff associated with RC. This is after I put myself on a budget. I would venture I probably spend $4-$5k a year.
Electric is NOT cheaper than nitro. At least not substantially cheaper to where it makes any difference although it might be a little cheaper in the long run. A decent motor and ESC is $300 and then you need at least three batteries which is $200 if you go with the cheapo packs (which work just as well as the expensive ones) However, you also need a spare ESC and motor for the pit box which is another $300.
The rest of the costs are the same as the parts wear is the same.
Electric is NOT cheaper than nitro. At least not substantially cheaper to where it makes any difference although it might be a little cheaper in the long run. A decent motor and ESC is $300 and then you need at least three batteries which is $200 if you go with the cheapo packs (which work just as well as the expensive ones) However, you also need a spare ESC and motor for the pit box which is another $300.
The rest of the costs are the same as the parts wear is the same.
01-13-2010, 04:05 PM
#20
I don't see how electric is not much cheaper. Your right that the motor/esc is kind of a wash with a nitro engine. If you have a backup motor/esc then I am assuming you need a backup nitro engine.
You don't need brakes or a clutch. There is just less to go wrong in electric. You can get the cheap lipos for about 50 each. Most like you will have a lipo charger for your receiver pack in a nitro. There is no fuel cost for electric. That is a big saver there. You need one less expensive servo. No need for all the extra tools for nitro. No starter/starter pack. If I am correct bearings and tires would be your main costs. Also, due to the lighter weight of an electric buggy I would think there would be less wear and tear. Especially, on the bearings.
The big thing is, can I run an electric with nitro 1/8 races at the local track. I doubt there are enough electric 1/8th to have separate races. This is something I am trying to check into now.
You don't need brakes or a clutch. There is just less to go wrong in electric. You can get the cheap lipos for about 50 each. Most like you will have a lipo charger for your receiver pack in a nitro. There is no fuel cost for electric. That is a big saver there. You need one less expensive servo. No need for all the extra tools for nitro. No starter/starter pack. If I am correct bearings and tires would be your main costs. Also, due to the lighter weight of an electric buggy I would think there would be less wear and tear. Especially, on the bearings.
The big thing is, can I run an electric with nitro 1/8 races at the local track. I doubt there are enough electric 1/8th to have separate races. This is something I am trying to check into now.
01-13-2010, 04:35 PM
#21
I don't see how electric is not much cheaper. Your right that the motor/esc is kind of a wash with a nitro engine. If you have a backup motor/esc then I am assuming you need a backup nitro engine.
You don't need brakes or a clutch. There is just less to go wrong in electric. You can get the cheap lipos for about 50 each. Most like you will have a lipo charger for your receiver pack in a nitro. There is no fuel cost for electric. That is a big saver there. You need one less expensive servo. No need for all the extra tools for nitro. No starter/starter pack. If I am correct bearings and tires would be your main costs. Also, due to the lighter weight of an electric buggy I would think there would be less wear and tear. Especially, on the bearings.
The big thing is, can I run an electric with nitro 1/8 races at the local track. I doubt there are enough electric 1/8th to have separate races. This is something I am trying to check into now.
You don't need brakes or a clutch. There is just less to go wrong in electric. You can get the cheap lipos for about 50 each. Most like you will have a lipo charger for your receiver pack in a nitro. There is no fuel cost for electric. That is a big saver there. You need one less expensive servo. No need for all the extra tools for nitro. No starter/starter pack. If I am correct bearings and tires would be your main costs. Also, due to the lighter weight of an electric buggy I would think there would be less wear and tear. Especially, on the bearings.
The big thing is, can I run an electric with nitro 1/8 races at the local track. I doubt there are enough electric 1/8th to have separate races. This is something I am trying to check into now.
01-13-2010, 04:45 PM
#22
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Club racing is very afordable as long as you keep it real, and have a track close by (20 minutes or so driving) and bring your own food and drinks. Now if you start to race the big races....ho boy is it expensive, for me if I go to a Glorcs race at Gleenwood NY, its about
$100.00 for gas
$150.00 for 2 nights at motel
$90.00 race fees for 2 classes
$100.00 for food and beverages for 3 days
$80.00 for Nitro fuel
$50.00 for clutch bearings, shoes, plugs, brake clean, etc.
$100.00 for tires
$670.00 (on a budget) for the weekend assuming I don't break parts or blow a motor.
$100.00 for gas
$150.00 for 2 nights at motel
$90.00 race fees for 2 classes
$100.00 for food and beverages for 3 days
$80.00 for Nitro fuel
$50.00 for clutch bearings, shoes, plugs, brake clean, etc.
$100.00 for tires
$670.00 (on a budget) for the weekend assuming I don't break parts or blow a motor.
01-13-2010, 04:59 PM
#23
Club racing is very afordable as long as you keep it real, and have a track close by (20 minutes or so driving) and bring your own food and drinks. Now if you start to race the big races....ho boy is it expensive, for me if I go to a Glorcs race at Gleenwood NY, its about
$100.00 for gas
$150.00 for 2 nights at motel
$90.00 race fees for 2 classes
$100.00 for food and beverages for 3 days
$80.00 for Nitro fuel
$50.00 for clutch bearings, shoes, plugs, brake clean, etc.
$100.00 for tires
$670.00 (on a budget) for the weekend assuming I don't break parts or blow a motor.
$100.00 for gas
$150.00 for 2 nights at motel
$90.00 race fees for 2 classes
$100.00 for food and beverages for 3 days
$80.00 for Nitro fuel
$50.00 for clutch bearings, shoes, plugs, brake clean, etc.
$100.00 for tires
$670.00 (on a budget) for the weekend assuming I don't break parts or blow a motor.
Now dont forget to add in the time off that you may take to attend these races. Most large events start mid week.
01-13-2010, 05:14 PM
#24
$25 for 2 classes. I race nitrobuggy and stock SCT in the summer, and stock 1/10th buggy and Mod SCt in the winter.
Elsewhere I raced 30min nitro mains with a real pit lane with racers I know I could count on to pit for me in quals and mains. Up here that just deosn't exist. So I'm going to switch to E.
01-13-2010, 05:18 PM
#25
Tekin and CC are more then happy to fix your ESC or Motor FREE of charge for a lot longer then the written warranty.
They understand its still a teething process and will NOT be charging you if stuff fails a month or 2 outta the "written warranty".
Just wanted to clear up that statement.
01-13-2010, 05:19 PM
#26
i all depends if you have 45 minute mains of corse, you are gone to use a gallon of fuel in 2 weekends. and if you also run buggy, and truggy then you will use fuel up pretty quick.
but if use race just one car it should, last more than 2 weekends specially if you use a ,ventri in the carb. and not to mention the ,tires that are out these days should ,last you for a while .
1. glow plugs i spend about $7.69 and they last for a long time.
2. a gallon of fuel can last me, about 3 weekends if im only racing one car.
3. a set of tires like aka tires last me about a mouth.
4. clutch shoes last me about 2 gallons if i use long lasting clutch shoes.
5. as for bearings about a gallon or so.
baselly it depends on how you drive if you, are a smooth driver fuel will last you longer and if your not. and your a monster on the throttle, in the corners than it wont last, you long at all .
but if use race just one car it should, last more than 2 weekends specially if you use a ,ventri in the carb. and not to mention the ,tires that are out these days should ,last you for a while .
1. glow plugs i spend about $7.69 and they last for a long time.
2. a gallon of fuel can last me, about 3 weekends if im only racing one car.
3. a set of tires like aka tires last me about a mouth.
4. clutch shoes last me about 2 gallons if i use long lasting clutch shoes.
5. as for bearings about a gallon or so.
baselly it depends on how you drive if you, are a smooth driver fuel will last you longer and if your not. and your a monster on the throttle, in the corners than it wont last, you long at all .
Well thanks a hell of a lot for laying that all out! I raced ever weekend and sometimes twice in one weekend in four different states in 2009 from April through November. Now I know why i am "BROKE" .Thats with a Revo,imagine all the time spent keeping 3 Revo's running at that pace . 
01-13-2010, 05:19 PM
#27
Trust me, it ain't much cheaper or nitro guys spend a helluva a lot more money than I think. I have been racing electric 1/8s for three years now. You need a GOOD charger, not those crappy ones all the nitro guys use for their receiver packs. Those can set you back at least $100 to $300 bucks. The ESCs are getting much more reliable, but they still are somewhat of a weak spot. You need at least one back up, but a lot of guys have 2 or 3 in their pit box. Voltmeters, pinions, netbook/laptop, etc. Yeah, we aren't spending money on glow plugs and fuel, but I don't really see how it is any cheaper from my real life experience. It might be on paper, but it don't seem to work that way in reality.
2 Esc's
2 Motors, at least 2
Laptop
Programming dongle
2 chargers
4 batteries
multiple pinions
extra sensor chords
Hakko soldering station, our cheap little irons for servo leads aint enough for esc connections.
E stuff can blow up at any time, just like an OS conrod. E is not cheaper, not more reliable. But if your stuck with mixed 15 min mains until e gets its own class....it might be the fastest way around the track.
01-13-2010, 05:25 PM
#28
i think the most expansive part this hobby comes down to a few things for nitro
fuel tires clutchs
once you got that covered it got be gas for my truck fuel for me aka food and motel since i hardly club race.
fuel tires clutchs
once you got that covered it got be gas for my truck fuel for me aka food and motel since i hardly club race.
01-13-2010, 05:37 PM
#29
yea but if you have long lasting clutch shoes , and a softer clutch spring. setup you dont have to spend,,, any money intil at least, 2 gallons or more.
as for tires the ones, out on the market.last way longer than they used, to so i would think that, would be cheaper.
01-13-2010, 05:38 PM
#30
sorry but when comes to clutch stuff a gallon max maybe a lil more when you try and race at the top you got keep your stuff in shape to be at the top as for tires it not so bad since i discovered jconcpets it all i take to the track ever tire all 3 compuounds and deal with what i got no more 200 set to go racing