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Old 01-06-2010, 03:34 PM   #1
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Default Losi 8ight 2.0 split center diff mount losa4444

this new split center diff mount that losi has released does anyone have any feedback on it yet? is it worth the $70 bucks?? thanks
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:03 PM   #2
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Yes..

It's totally worth it. Doesn't weigh a ton and was designed really well for this car to give it more consistant braking and a way to get to your center diff faster.

I have heard people say that you have to take the motor out still.. This is wrong. I can get to my diff just fine and reassemble it with my motors mounted.

I have tried this with my B7pro, VZB Speed, VZB and LOSI 350 motors and all the carbs were sitting by the top diff piece and brake cam and you can still slide it out towards the radio tray and remove it with no issues.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:10 PM   #3
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Yes..

It's totally worth it. Doesn't weigh a ton and was designed really well for this car to give it more consistant braking and a way to get to your center diff faster.

I have heard people say that you have to take the motor out still.. This is wrong. I can get to my diff just fine and reassemble it with my motors mounted.

I have tried this with my B7pro, VZB Speed, VZB and LOSI 350 motors and all the carbs were sitting by the top diff piece and brake cam and you can still slide it out towards the radio tray and remove it with no issues.





so if you get the split diff mount,can you mount the carb straight instend of.having it rotated to the left? this is a problem with the losi.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:14 PM   #4
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so if you get the split diff mount,can you mount the carb straight instend of.having it rotated to the left? this is a problem with the losi.



Correct. The center diff is machined and cut at the rear now the rear brake cam is completely open and not covered by the diff allowing for the carb to be as striaght as possible without even coming close to the diff mount anymore.

No more rear chassis flex and tearing carb boots on my VZB from them hitting the corner of the diff in the rear. Just rear flex without worrying if my carb boot just got ripped up.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:17 PM   #5
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man i might get one sounds like it, puts alot less stress on the throttle servo. to since the carb is straight, and pulling the linkage straighter.


do you notice a diffrence in the weight when you install it on the buggy?
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:25 PM   #6
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so if you get the split diff mount,can you mount the carb straight instend of.having it rotated to the left? this is a problem with the losi.
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man i might get one sounds like it, puts alot less stress on the throttle servo. to since the carb is straight, and pulling the linkage straighter.


do you notice a diffrence in the weight when you install it on the buggy?
what problem?

if your linkage isnt staight thats YOUR Problem, not a problem with a losi. you have to adjust the ball on the carb and your linkage will be straight.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:30 PM   #7
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my throttle linkage is i set it up like. the losi manuel shows, but reguardless if you have to rotate the whole carb. so the carb boot doesnt, rub the center diff
its gone to put a little, more stress on the servo.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:32 PM   #8
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my throttle linkage is i set it up like. the losi manuel shows, but reguardless if you have to rotate the whole carb. so the carb boot doesnt, rub the center diff
its gone to put a little, more stress on the servo.
ok english. repeat ENGLISH
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:35 PM   #9
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ok english. repeat ENGLISH

oh what word isnt english?
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:41 PM   #10
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oh what word isnt english?
dude, when you reply to someone, everyone has a very hard time reading what you write. I for one have to reread EVERY post you write and i do this very slowly because your just typing what comes up first in your head . Read what you write before you post. I am not the only one who has commented this subject.

BUT, to answer your post previous. All you have to do is tilt the carb so the boot is not hitting the center diff mount. Then you have to adjust the ball on the carb so the linkage is straight, this means you have to make sure its straight when its at the idle position and when your at WOT
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:20 PM   #11
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http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...-Center/Detail
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:33 PM   #12
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what problem?

if your linkage isnt staight thats YOUR Problem, not a problem with a losi. you have to adjust the ball on the carb and your linkage will be straight.
Not sure about you, but everytime I have tried to run my carb at 90* on the stock diff I end up with torn carb boots from the rear flexing upward on landings and tearing the boot when it hits the center diff corner that sticks way out.

This was a perfect option for me to fix that issue I had with all my engines. Look at any pics of the rear of this diff it's machined so that you can run your carb at a perfect angle without rotating carb balls. Rotating carb balls has never helped the fact that the chassis can flex upward and still hit the stock diff and tear boots. And running a ALU rear chassis brace takes away to much flex to justify using it.

And no I didn't notice a single difference in the buggy from the weight of the new diff.

I don't have a scale but I bet it's not much heavier then the stock piece as it's extremely light weight.

OO and check the link above.. If you paid 70 for this you got jacked. Losi Parts House always has the cheapiest price. Can't beat $59.95.
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:41 PM   #13
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[Not sure about you, but everytime I have tried to run my carb at 90* on the stock diff I end up with torn carb boots from the rear flexing upward on landings and tearing the boot when it hits the center diff corner that sticks way out.

This was a perfect option for me to fix that issue I had with all my engines. Look at any pics of the rear of this diff it's machined so that you can run your carb at a perfect angle without rotating carb balls. Rotating carb balls has never helped the fact that the chassis can flex upward and still hit the stock diff and tear boots. And running a ALU rear chassis brace takes away to much flex to justify using it.

And no I didn't notice a single difference in the buggy from the weight of the new diff.

I don't have a scale but I bet it's not much heavier then the stock piece as it's extremely light weight.




right thats what i did i (rotated the carb to the left a little, bit so it wouldnt hit the center diff mount.) and also (moved the carb ball so the linkage goes straight. also i set it up just like the(losi instructions said.) yea i can see how the (carb boot, would tear if the ,carb is mounted at 90@) with the (stock diff mount setup.)

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Old 01-06-2010, 05:47 PM   #14
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right thats what i did i (rotated the carb to the left a little, bit so it woulnt hit the center diff mount.) and also (moved the carb ball,) also i set it up just like the(losi instructions said.) yea i can see how the (carb boot, would tear if the ,carb is mounted at 90@) with the (stock diff mount setup.)

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Old 01-06-2010, 05:50 PM   #15
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Not sure about you, but everytime I have tried to run my carb at 90* on the stock diff I end up with torn carb boots from the rear flexing upward on landings and tearing the boot when it hits the center diff corner that sticks way out.

This was a perfect option for me to fix that issue I had with all my engines. Look at any pics of the rear of this diff it's machined so that you can run your carb at a perfect angle without rotating carb balls. Rotating carb balls has never helped the fact that the chassis can flex upward and still hit the stock diff and tear boots. And running a ALU rear chassis brace takes away to much flex to justify using it.

And no I didn't notice a single difference in the buggy from the weight of the new diff.

I don't have a scale but I bet it's not much heavier then the stock piece as it's extremely light weight.

OO and check the link above.. If you paid 70 for this you got jacked. Losi Parts House always has the cheapiest price. Can't beat $59.95.


Why doed everyone read ONE post and comment on that. The post right after this i explained turing the carb and rotating the ball on the carb. READ MORE THEN ONE POST





Quote:
Originally Posted by tc5 man View Post
[Not sure about you, but everytime I have tried to run my carb at 90* on the stock diff I end up with torn carb boots from the rear flexing upward on landings and tearing the boot when it hits the center diff corner that sticks way out.

This was a perfect option for me to fix that issue I had with all my engines. Look at any pics of the rear of this diff it's machined so that you can run your carb at a perfect angle without rotating carb balls. Rotating carb balls has never helped the fact that the chassis can flex upward and still hit the stock diff and tear boots. And running a ALU rear chassis brace takes away to much flex to justify using it.

And no I didn't notice a single difference in the buggy from the weight of the new diff.

I don't have a scale but I bet it's not much heavier then the stock piece as it's extremely light weight.




right thats what i did i (rotated the carb to the left a little, bit so it woulnt hit the center diff mount.) and also (moved the carb ball,) also i set it up just like the(losi instructions said.) yea i can see how the (carb boot, would tear if the ,carb is mounted at 90@) with the (stock diff mount setup.)
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HAHAHA
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