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Old 10-30-2010, 08:07 AM   #976
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anybody know how much it's suppose to weight?
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:13 AM   #977
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Originally Posted by ironpeddler View Post
Damn that thing is sexy. As far as why it is like that though, i have no idea hopefully someone will elaborate.


Im actually not really diggin the way they've done it here......In a standard configuration the bone wear's along with the pin and coupler.....the coupler or Pinion output usually lasts the longest with switching from 1 hole to the next if needed....When that bone wear's out its pretty inexpensive to replace along with the CV guts and go to the next hole(Brand new set-up)

Now with the 408 set-up you'll be needing to replace the pinion which IMO isn't a smart idea, Now your Ring and Pinion mesh will be out as a R+P wear as 1 and replacing the pinion due to the CV end being worn out will start to mess with your shimming.

Looks cool in pics no doubt but as to the theory behind it, Id like to know from gerd or who ever came up with the idea.
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:14 AM   #978
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Originally Posted by nitrozilla View Post
i have been meaning to ask this for awhile now ...
why does team durango center drivehsafts ends look so different from the other manufacturers???
The shafts themselves are nearly identical but unlike other cars, the pinions that mesh with the ring gears (frt/rear) angle upwards, so the shafts not only sit higher in the car, but the center diff gear too.
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:14 AM   #979
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Default Odd pinion

I guess it is to be able to run pinion bearings with normal or just slightly larger ID. If they had it the opposite way the pinion would normally have a larger OD that require a larger ID bearing (think Xray 808).
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Old 10-30-2010, 08:32 AM   #980
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Man this car has a lot of tech in it. We will see if it works. I agree though sure looks sweet. 
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Old 10-30-2010, 12:02 PM   #981
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SO...basically no one really knows why it is like that. Just some specualtions. Hopefully some-one who really knows will fill us in. I would hate to waste $200-$300 more on a buggy that just has bling on it with no real functions to the bling. Hell, can almost pick up (2) HB hara editions for the price of one of these.
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Old 10-30-2010, 12:58 PM   #982
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Originally Posted by ironpeddler View Post
SO...basically no one really knows why it is like that. Just some specualtions. Hopefully some-one who really knows will fill us in. I would hate to waste $200-$300 more on a buggy that just has bling on it with no real functions to the bling. Hell, can almost pick up (2) HB hara editions for the price of one of these.
The system was borrowed from the 1/10 electric buggy. The design was initially to allow the battery packs to fit under the drive shaft, allowing for a narrower chassis and central weight distribution.

On the 1/8 nitro buggy, the benefits are less pronounced, but it does allow for the battery pack to fit in a location it wouldn't have been able to with a regular drive shaft set-up. Also, the raised shafts mean that the center diff gear is also raised, negating the need for an opening in the chassis, so less possibility of a stone getting in and damaging the gear teeth.

the way the shaft connects with the pinion looks very similar to what XRAY & Serpent have, but reinforced with aluminum braces & inserts so hopefully less stress on the pinion bearings.
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:19 AM   #983
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Originally Posted by captain america View Post
The system was borrowed from the 1/10 electric buggy. The design was initially to allow the battery packs to fit under the drive shaft, allowing for a narrower chassis and central weight distribution.

On the 1/8 nitro buggy, the benefits are less pronounced, but it does allow for the battery pack to fit in a location it wouldn't have been able to with a regular drive shaft set-up. Also, the raised shafts mean that the center diff gear is also raised, negating the need for an opening in the chassis, so less possibility of a stone getting in and damaging the gear teeth.

the way the shaft connects with the pinion looks very similar to what XRAY & Serpent have, but reinforced with aluminum braces & inserts so hopefully less stress on the pinion bearings.
thanks guys that is exactly what i was trying to understand
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:25 AM   #984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by captain america View Post
The system was borrowed from the 1/10 electric buggy. The design was initially to allow the battery packs to fit under the drive shaft, allowing for a narrower chassis and central weight distribution.

On the 1/8 nitro buggy, the benefits are less pronounced, but it does allow for the battery pack to fit in a location it wouldn't have been able to with a regular drive shaft set-up. Also, the raised shafts mean that the center diff gear is also raised, negating the need for an opening in the chassis, so less possibility of a stone getting in and damaging the gear teeth.

the way the shaft connects with the pinion looks very similar to what XRAY & Serpent have, but reinforced with aluminum braces & inserts so hopefully less stress on the pinion bearings.
+1 Its the only way to get the battery sideways behind the motor.
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Old 10-31-2010, 08:15 AM   #985
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+1 Its the only way to get the battery sideways behind the motor.
True enough. This is probably optimal from a weight distribution standpoint, but from the time they showed the tray layout I had a sinking feeling that swapping batteries was going to be a bit of a chore. That could potentially be one "con" of the design: robust and quick, but more demanding maintenance-wise.
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:29 AM   #986
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Hello everyone, sorry for not responding sooner. Been very busy practicing at the Worlds and attending the R/C Pro Finals in Texas.
Let me answer a few of the questions to the best of my ability.

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Originally Posted by jewn_beef View Post
the car looks good all though i dont know how many roll overs that weird wing is going to take before it cracks and breaks does not look to be to strong
The wing doesn't break. After the crashes I took in Thailand I would say it's actually one of the strongest wings on the market.

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Originally Posted by Scott.K View Post
anybody know how much it's suppose to weight?
I am going to venture to guess that the car in stock form will be around 3450g.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Integra View Post
Im actually not really diggin the way they've done it here......In a standard configuration the bone wear's along with the pin and coupler.....the coupler or Pinion output usually lasts the longest with switching from 1 hole to the next if needed....When that bone wear's out its pretty inexpensive to replace along with the CV guts and go to the next hole(Brand new set-up)

Now with the 408 set-up you'll be needing to replace the pinion which IMO isn't a smart idea, Now your Ring and Pinion mesh will be out as a R+P wear as 1 and replacing the pinion due to the CV end being worn out will start to mess with your shimming.

Looks cool in pics no doubt but as to the theory behind it, Id like to know from gerd or who ever came up with the idea.
I don't know the theory. What I do know is this: When I got to Thailand I had to run Gerd's origional car that he had put countless gallons on. In the course of the Worlds practice and the R/C Pro Finals I have put nearly 5 gallons on the Ring and Pinion gears of this car. Better yet they still look brand new!! Plus you don't have to shim them. Just drop them in and run. There is zero flex in the bulkhead with the clamshell design being held tight by the aluminum bulkhead.

Quote:
Originally Posted by captain america View Post
True enough. This is probably optimal from a weight distribution standpoint, but from the time they showed the tray layout I had a sinking feeling that swapping batteries was going to be a bit of a chore. That could potentially be one "con" of the design: robust and quick, but more demanding maintenance-wise.
The battery (and the receiver for that point) are easily accessible with the removal of 3 small screws from the receiver box. It looks more complicated than it is but it is actually very easy.
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I am really digging this car. You can feel the low CG on the track. It just feels stable and not tippy at all. It is unique in many ways and the maintenance is a breeze. 6 screws to take out the front and rear diffs. You can take out all the diffs but the arms are still attached to the chassis so you don't have arms and driveshafts dangling from the car when taking diffs out.

Please let me know what other questions I can answer.

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Old 10-31-2010, 09:51 AM   #987
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Originally Posted by DRCRacer299 View Post


I don't know the theory. What I do know is this: When I got to Thailand I had to run Gerd's origional car that he had put countless gallons on. In the course of the Worlds practice and the R/C Pro Finals I have put nearly 5 gallons on the Ring and Pinion gears of this car. Better yet they still look brand new!! Plus you don't have to shim them. Just drop them in and run. There is zero flex in the bulkhead with the clamshell design being held tight by the aluminum bulkhead.
i think in maintenance he was saying you will have to replace an entire pinion gear (if its worn out) that would already have a perfect mesh with teh ring gear... you ring and pinion could last teh life of your car if properly maintained.. but with that addition of teh CVD being part of it may cause you to change it more often than you want to... i think... what are you thougts on that?
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Old 10-31-2010, 09:51 AM   #988
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRCRacer299 View Post
Hello everyone, sorry for not responding sooner. Been very busy practicing at the Worlds and attending the R/C Pro Finals in Texas.
Let me answer a few of the questions to the best of my ability.



The wing doesn't break. After the crashes I took in Thailand I would say it's actually one of the strongest wings on the market.



I am going to venture to guess that the car in stock form will be around 3450g.



I don't know the theory. What I do know is this: When I got to Thailand I had to run Gerd's origional car that he had put countless gallons on. In the course of the Worlds practice and the R/C Pro Finals I have put nearly 5 gallons on the Ring and Pinion gears of this car. Better yet they still look brand new!! Plus you don't have to shim them. Just drop them in and run. There is zero flex in the bulkhead with the clamshell design being held tight by the aluminum bulkhead.



The battery (and the receiver for that point) are easily accessible with the removal of 3 small screws from the receiver box. It looks more complicated than it is but it is actually very easy.
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I am really digging this car. You can feel the low CG on the track. It just feels stable and not tippy at all. It is unique in many ways and the maintenance is a breeze. 6 screws to take out the front and rear diffs. You can take out all the diffs but the arms are still attached to the chassis so you don't have arms and driveshafts dangling from the car when taking diffs out.

Please let me know what other questions I can answer.

-Ryan Lutz
Happy Halloween Ryan!! Great job handling that new ride!!

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Old 10-31-2010, 10:14 AM   #989
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Just thought I would post on here about what took place at the RC Pro Int. Finals in Tx. The track conditions was unbelievable I did not know that RC cars can make ruts in a track to that magnitude it actually looked like a MX track. Its hard to believe that these cars can take that much abuse for a 60min main. and the Darango looked really good in those conditions!!
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:15 PM   #990
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I know that this has already probably been asked but whats the price on one of these? and when is it supposed to be realeased? Thinking about picking one of these puppies up for the delta winter series....
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