What is the best running and all around performnce motor on the market now?
#151
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (96)
I agree Monty, most engines are throw aways as replacement parts cost as much or more to rebuild than to replace. On my personal engines, I do my very best to constantly maintain them and by maintaining I mean preheating them, keeping them tuned properly, going through them before each race and making sure everything on the inside and out looks acceptable for operation and if I need a bearing, rod or something fairly inexpensive, I go ahead and replace the part. If it gets to the point that it needs a pinch, i send it to RayAracing for a sizing and recondition but when it comes to the point of needing a P/S/R, I just junk it and move on because chances are the crank pin is nearing it's service limit if it hasn't exceeded it already and when you talk about replacing the P/S/R and crank, chances are you just paid for a new engine and you still have used bearings, carb etc that you have to wonder about.
preheating is a very key component when engine is still fairly fresh , at least letting it warm up all the way
#152
For the most part, I'm also in the run it til it needs everything and then chuck it category but there are two exceptions. I've had 2 motors that just seemed to have magic cranks. You know those ones where even if you match the timing on a new one. it still doesn't run quite as well?
The first was an RB C5 that was just magic. After many gallons of hard racing, I went ahead and gave it a full rebuild. Only the case and crank remained and it was still magic. Many gallons later, new ceramic bearings and it was back yet again. Broke my heart when the sleeve broke on it. The crank pin is just too small to keep going now but I got my moneys worth for sure.
The other, an R1WC onroad motor. That thing made the pros look slow. In this case, after the motor self destructed instead of rebuilding I found a deal on a new motor but put the old crank in it. Another screamer. Yeah the pin is getting pretty worn but it is still getting the job done. I keep trying to match that crank but I did something really right the first time.
The first was an RB C5 that was just magic. After many gallons of hard racing, I went ahead and gave it a full rebuild. Only the case and crank remained and it was still magic. Many gallons later, new ceramic bearings and it was back yet again. Broke my heart when the sleeve broke on it. The crank pin is just too small to keep going now but I got my moneys worth for sure.
The other, an R1WC onroad motor. That thing made the pros look slow. In this case, after the motor self destructed instead of rebuilding I found a deal on a new motor but put the old crank in it. Another screamer. Yeah the pin is getting pretty worn but it is still getting the job done. I keep trying to match that crank but I did something really right the first time.
#153
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
I preheat my engines evey chance I can. Sometime you have those races where you have to stand in line to practice and you don't get a chance to or you get it preheated and then they make you shut the cars down after start up to fart around with something and you don't always get the chance to reheat but those are far and few in between so my engines get preheated 99% of the time I run them which makes them last quite awhile. I had a P5X a couple years ago go 13.5 gallons on the original rod, piston, sleeve and original pinch. I replaced the front bearing a few times and the rear bearing once. i wanted to see how long an engine would go if taken care of. It still ran at the 13.5 gallon mark, but not as good as it should be running so i retired it after 2.5 seasons of in and out of vehicles and it didn't owe me a dime.
#154
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (96)
I preheat my engines evey chance I can. Sometime you have those races where you have to stand in line to practice and you don't get a chance to or you get it preheated and then they make you shut the cars down after start up to fart around with something and you don't always get the chance to reheat but those are far and few in between so my engines get preheated 99% of the time I run them which makes them last quite awhile. I had a P5X a couple years ago go 13.5 gallons on the original rod, piston, sleeve and original pinch. I replaced the front bearing a few times and the rear bearing once. i wanted to see how long an engine would go if taken care of. It still ran at the 13.5 gallon mark, but not as good as it should be running so i retired it after 2.5 seasons of in and out of vehicles and it didn't owe me a dime.
#155
Tech Fanatic
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: 4373 Creek Road Chaffee,NY 14030 USA (716)783-5198
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I also agree!!!
Sounds to me a rule of thumb that should be written in stone:
#1 Clean engine with always running clean well treated air filters, while understanding the life expectancy a piece of foam is not 4ever, replacing as needed.
#2 ALWAYS preheat before starting engine, Especially during breakin.
#3 Maintain good bearing performance, replacing when needed, using quality bearings. Note:The conrod is with (part of) the bearing performance factor. Novarossi producing one fine quality piece of hardeware I might also agree.
Mark from PowerHouse does keep the cleanest of rides I see at track.
#156
I agree on the point of most engines are throw away. By the time you buy bearings,piston/sleeve and rod you are over the $200 mark,(on italian engines anyway). Unless like it was stated earlier you just need to replace bearings or a rod, then I would do that if I new it would last another few gallons. I also Think it is great that Werks has the B5 and the B3 that are great engines for under $200 bucks. You get 8-9 gallons out of them and when they go buy another one.( I just like werks but same goes for Nova) Point being If you take care of them get your use out of them and Buy another one for less than it would cost to rebuild and engine. I cant live with buying a $300+ engine and a gallong or so after break in replaceing the bearings and rod, NO you are over $450. I like the under $225 engine,use it,take care of it, then buy a new one....... BUt thats just me
#157
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
riverracetrack.com
Congrats on your degree, yeah....San Antonio has a great track I really like it. Hopefully you get to go to some of these races. I'm planning on going to atleast 4. I hate the drive also but once your there it is well worth it.
Get me an address or name to your alls track, maybe i can get some other guys to tag along.
Get me an address or name to your alls track, maybe i can get some other guys to tag along.
The owner's name is Ken Wasek. He's a cool guy.
#158
Tech Addict
Wish I could get 20+ gallons of fuel through my engines.
#159
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Don't be fooled, I have seen guys with 10 posts as smart as a whip and I have seen guys with 10,000 posts that still couldn't tie their own shoes. Just because you can punch a keyboard doesn't mean you know what you are talking about. Too many people stereotype and think guys with no or low post count don't have the right to voice their's and I think that is wrong. I got flacked at every site I have been on because people thought that because I just joined their forum that I didn't know anything.
#161
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
Sure thing, just go to the website www.riverracetrack.com
The owner's name is Ken Wasek. He's a cool guy.
The owner's name is Ken Wasek. He's a cool guy.
Thanks, I'll check it out.
#162
Tech Lord
iTrader: (148)
I just joined today, so I had to find something to chime in on. I've been out of racing for a few years and just thought about how I miss it, so I'm getting back into it. On this subject though, I was just giving my .02 cents from my own experiences. I used to be all about spending all my money on the most expensive and highest praised parts, but when I made it to the "B" main of an open class Nitro Maxx challenge (the only un-sponsored driver) while driving a Thunder Tiger S3 (don't ask) and a $150.00 O.S. .21 engine, I taught myself that learning to keep the rubber down and learning to control the car with the speed you do have, that you will get so much further than the people that spend all their money to see the bottom of their chassis.
Last edited by Frank L; 01-08-2010 at 11:38 PM.
#163
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
I just joined today, so I had to find something to chime in on. I've been out of racing for a few years and just thought about how I miss it, so I'm getting back into it. On this subject though, I was just giving my .02 cents from my own experiences. I used to be all about spending all my money on the most expensive and highest praised parts, but when I made it to the "B" main of an open class Nitro Maxx challenge (the only un-sponsored driver) while driving a Thunder Tiger S3 (don't ask) and a $150.00 O.S. .21 engine, I taught myself that learning to keep the rubber down and learning to control the car with the speed you do have, that you will get so much further than the people that spend all their money to see the bottom of their chassis.
#164
+1000. I used to have a 91 NSX, sold it at the 85k mark, did very little besides change the oil. Drove like an Accord when stuck traffic, feels and sounds like a F1 car over 5k rpm. Reliable as hell. Ferrari's and Masers are a different equation...$8k service trips would make me vomit.
I'd definitely take a $200 .21 that can run 15 gallons perfect with no maintenance, even if it doesn't have a blingy cooling head.
That said, I do like my Novarossi....
I'm intrigued by this new Werks engine though, think I may try that next.
I'd definitely take a $200 .21 that can run 15 gallons perfect with no maintenance, even if it doesn't have a blingy cooling head.
That said, I do like my Novarossi....
I'm intrigued by this new Werks engine though, think I may try that next.