Normal Maintenance
12-23-2009, 03:58 PM
#1
Normal Maintenance
Obviously I want to keep my buggy running correctly for a long time so what are the best normal maintenance tasks you can do.
I would also like to know how everyone cleans their buggy without damaging the thing. This thing is NASTY where all the oil has built up and the dirt has stuck to it. I am sure sand in everything doesn't help performance either when it is just grinding away at stuff
.
I would also like to know how everyone cleans their buggy without damaging the thing. This thing is NASTY where all the oil has built up and the dirt has stuck to it. I am sure sand in everything doesn't help performance either when it is just grinding away at stuff
.
12-23-2009, 04:02 PM
#2
i would get a air compessor first makes it way easier to clean off, use simple green to get the oil off the chassis and also. if u refuel dont spill it on the plastics/chassis , u can use w40 so the sand wont stick, check your bearings if your running in the sand.
12-23-2009, 04:24 PM
#3
I do a complete tear down between races. Get the chassis cleared off and wipe everything off with WD40 or simple green. Inspect everything for wear and check bearings. I use Avid bearings so I just replace them if they get notchy. Hang on to the used ones for people at the track who need bearings when theirs go out because they didn't check them.
12-23-2009, 05:00 PM
#4
I do a complete tear down between races. Get the chassis cleared off and wipe everything off with WD40 or simple green. Inspect everything for wear and check bearings. I use Avid bearings so I just replace them if they get notchy. Hang on to the used ones for people at the track who need bearings when theirs go out because they didn't check them.
12-23-2009, 05:30 PM
#5
Thats what I do everything, but the best thing to use to keep from having to do this every time is Kalgard Prep and Shine. Best stuff on the market by far to repel dirt and dust. I NEVER NEVER run my buggy in sand, that is terrible for the bearings. But get the Kalgard and your worries are over
12-23-2009, 06:55 PM
#6
Thats what I do everything, but the best thing to use to keep from having to do this every time is Kalgard Prep and Shine. Best stuff on the market by far to repel dirt and dust. I NEVER NEVER run my buggy in sand, that is terrible for the bearings. But get the Kalgard and your worries are over
12-23-2009, 07:26 PM
#7
I used to always tear my buggy down, give it a thourough cleaning and inspection.
Now all i do is
1 clean off engine, check plug, if plug is good, put aro and reinstall
2 check the teeth of bell/spur, check the play of the bell on the shaft, then check the clutch bearings and shoes, replace shoes, springs, bearings if necessary, clean bell and lightly sand it.
3 take front end and rear end off. I do not break it all down, i just look through the bottom at the teeth of the conical and pinion. Check the play and it there is any resistance whatsoever. for the most part this should never change if you mesh was set correct to begin with. see if any fluid is leeking from the diff as well. If its been a gallon or so i replace the fluids. You should be able to check all this without actually taking the diff out the bulkhead.
4 check the front and rear dogbones for play in the cvd's, look for slop in the wheel bearings, and look for play in the upper and lower arms, reshim if necessary.
5 check my servo saver and bellcrank. retighten screws, maybe change out the bushings or servo saver arm if there is to much play, check all the linkages. Tighten the servo saver just a touch.
6 check all the screws wing mounts etc. open up the reciever box and see if everything is ok, inspect fuel tank and fuel lines, maybe check the fuel filter.
7 also, check you suspension HINGE PINS, they will rust and if you do not take them out every now and then, they corrode and become almost impossible to get out.
8 if my shocks are still full, i don't change the fluid unless i change my setup. but i don't keep the same oil in them for over a gallon.
9 get your wd40 out and squirt behind the flywheel of your engine to remove any dirt and any ball joints, pins, balls etc.
sounds like alot but it should take you no more then 15 minutes max. I don't worry anymore about keeping it squeeky clean. To me that is a waist of time. Foccus on the things that will affect performance.
beats the hell out of breaking everything down and taking two hours doing stuff that is pointless, although i like to stay busy sometimes.
of course when you are done, check your tires, ride height, and droop. those affect your performance the most (shock oil and springs as well). break out your camber and toe gauge if ya want too. Make sure you servos are tight and go race!!!!!
Now all i do is
1 clean off engine, check plug, if plug is good, put aro and reinstall
2 check the teeth of bell/spur, check the play of the bell on the shaft, then check the clutch bearings and shoes, replace shoes, springs, bearings if necessary, clean bell and lightly sand it.
3 take front end and rear end off. I do not break it all down, i just look through the bottom at the teeth of the conical and pinion. Check the play and it there is any resistance whatsoever. for the most part this should never change if you mesh was set correct to begin with. see if any fluid is leeking from the diff as well. If its been a gallon or so i replace the fluids. You should be able to check all this without actually taking the diff out the bulkhead.
4 check the front and rear dogbones for play in the cvd's, look for slop in the wheel bearings, and look for play in the upper and lower arms, reshim if necessary.
5 check my servo saver and bellcrank. retighten screws, maybe change out the bushings or servo saver arm if there is to much play, check all the linkages. Tighten the servo saver just a touch.
6 check all the screws wing mounts etc. open up the reciever box and see if everything is ok, inspect fuel tank and fuel lines, maybe check the fuel filter.
7 also, check you suspension HINGE PINS, they will rust and if you do not take them out every now and then, they corrode and become almost impossible to get out.
8 if my shocks are still full, i don't change the fluid unless i change my setup. but i don't keep the same oil in them for over a gallon.
9 get your wd40 out and squirt behind the flywheel of your engine to remove any dirt and any ball joints, pins, balls etc.
sounds like alot but it should take you no more then 15 minutes max. I don't worry anymore about keeping it squeeky clean. To me that is a waist of time. Foccus on the things that will affect performance.
beats the hell out of breaking everything down and taking two hours doing stuff that is pointless, although i like to stay busy sometimes.
of course when you are done, check your tires, ride height, and droop. those affect your performance the most (shock oil and springs as well). break out your camber and toe gauge if ya want too. Make sure you servos are tight and go race!!!!!
12-23-2009, 07:33 PM
#8
of course once you know everything is set just right, all i do is check the clutch springs, bearings and shoes. Check the play in my steering and wheel bearings. take the center diff out and check the front and rear gearboxes by spinning the center drive shafts. From and rear diffs should still be silky smooth.
check the glow plug and braking and throtle linkage. 5 minutes
check the glow plug and braking and throtle linkage. 5 minutes
12-23-2009, 08:48 PM
#9
I enjoy working on my buggy almost as much as racing it, so my buggy gets completely torn down after every event.
It sounds like a pain in the a$$ ,but you will be surprised not only how much you will learn about your buggy and where the problem areas are, you will get into a routine and become pretty quick at doing your maintanence.
Another benefit to getting into this routine is the confidence you have in your vehicle when you go to the track, especially when you travel out of town.
To help make the whole tear down and cleaning process much easier, I would highly recommend the Kal-Gard line of products. The degreaser and Prep n Shine are the Bomb.
It sounds like a pain in the a$$ ,but you will be surprised not only how much you will learn about your buggy and where the problem areas are, you will get into a routine and become pretty quick at doing your maintanence.
Another benefit to getting into this routine is the confidence you have in your vehicle when you go to the track, especially when you travel out of town.
To help make the whole tear down and cleaning process much easier, I would highly recommend the Kal-Gard line of products. The degreaser and Prep n Shine are the Bomb.
12-23-2009, 08:52 PM
#10
I enjoy working on my buggy almost as much as racing it, so my buggy gets completely torn down after every event.
It sounds like a pain in the a$$ ,but you will be surprised not only how much you will learn about your buggy and where the problem areas are, you will get into a routine and become pretty quick at doing your maintanence.
Another benefit to getting into this routine is the confidence you have in your vehicle when you go to the track, especially when you travel out of town.
To help make the whole tear down and cleaning process much easier, I would highly recommend the Kal-Gard line of products. The degreaser and Prep n Shine are the Bomb.
It sounds like a pain in the a$$ ,but you will be surprised not only how much you will learn about your buggy and where the problem areas are, you will get into a routine and become pretty quick at doing your maintanence.
Another benefit to getting into this routine is the confidence you have in your vehicle when you go to the track, especially when you travel out of town.
To help make the whole tear down and cleaning process much easier, I would highly recommend the Kal-Gard line of products. The degreaser and Prep n Shine are the Bomb.
100% agree with your method of madness.
the only thing i cant vouch for is the Kal-gard.....i haven't a clue where to get it up here in Canada.
12-23-2009, 08:57 PM
#11
Go to the Kal- Gard thread and put a PM to todd, he is the east coast dist. Im sure he will help you out.
Once you use it you will be hooked!
Once you use it you will be hooked!
12-23-2009, 09:16 PM
#13
After a day at the track, i airhose off as much as i can. I use a needle adaptor and at 130psi, it really blasts the dirt off good! Spash some denatured(10 bucks a gal) around the area that is covered in oil, let sit for 5 mins, splash some more and airhose away. And if you got alot of free time, a full tear down on a sunday afternoon with a couple of beers sounds pretty nice
12-23-2009, 09:57 PM
#14
This thread is pretty cool, I think I'm going to make dreaux's post into my after run checklist... I've been doing a lot of those things but not methodically.
12-24-2009, 01:58 AM
#15
Complete tear down. Then rebuild like a new kit. Lot of money invested so i'd say it's best to make sure that everytime you race you get your moneys worth out of your car instead of having a mechanical failure and wasting time (and petrol getting to the track 
lol)
lol)