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Old 12-23-2009, 04:22 AM   #16
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Well in your engine there are 3 bearings, 2 in the engine and a one-way bearing in the pullstart mechanism. That is what makes your pullstart work- that bearing only being able to turn in one direction. The other 2 in the engine- one is a sealed bearing (front), it seals the crankcase from airleaks, and the other supports the crankshaft (rear).

"hi thankyou i followed ur advice and cleaned everthing out the bearings were gone my uncle changed them"

In order to change the bearings in a engine, you either need a bearing puller, or some advanced techniques to get them out without messing up the case. Sometimes you can get the bearing sets at the LHS, but more often, will need to send off to a bearing company like BOCA to get new ones.

Inside the pullstart is the one-way bearing. This bearing is undoubtedly the most high maintenance bearing in the engine. Sometimes they will become soaked with castor oil and not work. When that happens, clean everthing out good, take the bearing out, and soak it in Denatured Alcohol (DA), clean it really good, oil it LIGHTLY, and reinstall it. Should be good to go.

As far as the noise you are hearing, is it while the engine is running or just when you are trying to start it. If it is while running, you may have a piece loose or missing in the pullstart. Sometimes there is a spring, like the one in a ballpoint pen, that holds the pullstart reel away from the body of the pullstart. If that spring is missing it could be those parts inside rubbing.
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Old 12-23-2009, 04:30 AM   #17
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9v4ePOjjKNE
Here is a vid on Youtube to help with the teardown and rebuild. There are tons of other videos as well with help on the clutch, and anything else you can think of.
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Old 12-23-2009, 04:31 AM   #18
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plzz jamexy51 need ur help
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:38 AM   #19
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...too funny.
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:06 AM   #20
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it worked for a bit but the noise came back wat is the best way to strip the engine and please no technical talk lol i am only new to buggys also were abouts it the bearing that u told me to check
It may be your one way bearing. It catches when you pull the string then slips free when the engine runs. You can try washing it out with penetrating oil then use 3in1, tranny fluid, after run oil, some thing like that.Wash it and spin it on it's shaft when you do it.It's on the end of the shaft that is under the pull start.Make sure you put it back in right as which it catches.There about 15-20 bucks new.You Can see vids of motor maint. on utube also the proper way to remove and replace bearings in an rc motor it involves heat to expand the case so they just go in and out easily.Hope he drive your bearings in with force they are very delicate to force on the inner races but if the bearings were rusty the one way might be also.The pull start can usually be replaced with a back plate when you get more into it hobby and money wise as you'll need a bump box,batts,charger alot these can be had cheap on ebay. The novarossi n21bf limited is hands down the bang for the buck at 140.00 right now.
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:16 AM   #21
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i only hear the noise when i pullstart it
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:43 PM   #22
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i only hear the noise when i pullstart it
if you have a starter box i would get a back plate for the engine and eliminate the pullstart, they never work worth a crap i had a pull start and i took it off quick.

but to be able to take the engine apart first take off the clutch and fly wheel and all. then take the 4 bolts thats holding the cooling head on and take it off including the sleeve its the goldish thing in the in crank case. next make sure the piston is at the highest point (closest to where the glow plug is) and then take off the back plate. then take a needle nose pliers and gently take the rod off the crank and pull the piston and rod out then the crank will slide out the back. you will see a bearing inside the crank case (more than likely that one is bad) and check it how i told you earlier or if it looks "rusty" change it and also i would change the front bearing also. to take the bearings out heat in the oven and then have a 4x4 block of wood and tap it on the wood but dont tap it to hard or you can damage the case and the bearing should come out. if you have any more questions just PM me and i can help you.
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:53 PM   #23
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...too funny.
silliness
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:56 PM   #24
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Joshi ignore Integra he never has any good input always bashes everything anyone says. he a waste of time to even read his posts.

but anyways it sounds like you have a jammin x1, am i correct? if so that is a very good buggy i ran one for a year then converted it to an x2. but anyways take the engine apart and clean it and go threw it. i bet you have an air leak or a bad bearing, feel the bearing by hand and see if it feels "gritty" and if it does replace both of them. but if you want a new one DO NOT go with a 25 or anythng but an 21. i would go with a jammin JPX21 or an werks B5, both are cheap and great reliable engine. my dad runs the JPX21 and ill be getting one soon since my vspec is junk. but the 25 is to much, the 28 that is on it now is a basic 28 and is slower than the engines i mentioned and if you get an higher end 24, 25, 27 or 28 like the one you mentioned there will be a huge gain in power and performance. just something to think about this is all based on my opinion and experience at the track.
serious ?
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:38 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by jmaxey51 View Post
if you have a starter box i would get a back plate for the engine and eliminate the pullstart, they never work worth a crap i had a pull start and i took it off quick.

but to be able to take the engine apart first take off the clutch and fly wheel and all. then take the 4 bolts thats holding the cooling head on and take it off including the sleeve its the goldish thing in the in crank case. next make sure the piston is at the highest point (closest to where the glow plug is) and then take off the back plate. then take a needle nose pliers and gently take the rod off the crank and pull the piston and rod out then the crank will slide out the back. you will see a bearing inside the crank case (more than likely that one is bad) and check it how i told you earlier or if it looks "rusty" change it and also i would change the front bearing also. to take the bearings out heat in the oven and then have a 4x4 block of wood and tap it on the wood but dont tap it to hard or you can damage the case and the bearing should come out. if you have any more questions just PM me and i can help you.

Needle nose plyers...are you kidding me


Leave the engine maintenance posts to the guys who know what they are talking about.
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Last edited by Integra; 12-23-2009 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 12-23-2009, 08:56 PM   #26
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um if you would read i said the cooling head on and take it off INCLUDING the sleeve! and that what i use everytime it makes it easier and i have never had anything go wrong just cause i do something different doesnt mean its wrong. i know how to work on things i did race motocross for 10+ years until i had a career ending injury so kepping up 3 plus motocross bike was hard so iwas helping my dad working on them including engines so i know what im talking about. we kept my bikes top notch because i was running the pro class and i could have anything go wrong when i was jumping 100+ feet. but im done with your childish stuff you can say what you want i dont care the only thing that makes me mad is that if someone doesnt have a losi or top of the line engine you think its junk and not that good well im sorry to say its not what you have its how you drive. but whatever dude im done. this is just an HOBBY after all.
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Old 12-23-2009, 09:48 PM   #27
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um if you would read i said the cooling head on and take it off INCLUDING the sleeve! and that what i use everytime it makes it easier and i have never had anything go wrong just cause i do something different doesnt mean its wrong. i know how to work on things i did race motocross for 10+ years until i had a career ending injury so kepping up 3 plus motocross bike was hard so iwas helping my dad working on them including engines so i know what im talking about. we kept my bikes top notch because i was running the pro class and i could have anything go wrong when i was jumping 100+ feet. but im done with your childish stuff you can say what you want i dont care the only thing that makes me mad is that if someone doesnt have a losi or top of the line engine you think its junk and not that good well im sorry to say its not what you have its how you drive. but whatever dude im done. this is just an HOBBY after all.











+1 i agree with you it doesnt matter what kind of $300 to $400 engine you, have its all about the driving. can u take the heat integra.


i have a $150 nova .21 bf and beat guys with $300 to $400 engines.


its getting feisty in here lol.
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Old 12-23-2009, 10:17 PM   #28
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+1 i agree with you it doesnt matter what kind of $300 to $400 engine you, have its all about the driving. can u take the heat integra.


i have a $150 nova .21 bf and beat guys with $300 to $400 engines.


its getting feisty in here lol.
i have a $60 sts engine and i was running the top 3 fastest laps in pro buggy at my local track. i bough it used, the guy gave it to me but he told to give him 60 for the speed vspec carb lol.
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Old 12-23-2009, 10:25 PM   #29
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i have a $60 sts engine and i was running the top 3 fastest laps in pro buggy at my local track. i bough it used, the guy gave it to me but he told to give him 60 for the speed vspec carb lol.



i do run in a sportsman 1/8 buggy class but i mean even if your in the pros, and every guy in the pro class has $300 engine. doesnt mean they can drive better than the other guy, that wins all the time its because he better at driving and better on the throttle.



dam $60 for a used v-spec thats cool
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Old 12-23-2009, 11:05 PM   #30
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i do run in a sportsman 1/8 buggy class but i mean even if your in the pros, and every guy in the pro class has $300 engine. doesnt mean they can drive better than the other guy, that wins all the time its because he better at driving and better on the throttle.



dam $60 for a used v-spec thats cool
i was winning almost every race in the sportsman class with a FREE old OS RG engine lol its the old version of the OS VG. that thing was so slow, i just held it wide open and never let off haha.

but na its not an vspec its an STS D21T but he put an speed vspec carb on it because the other one was leaking a little.
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