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Old 12-20-2009, 03:47 PM   #1
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Default Motor temps

I had my LHS set my needles because I didn't know what I was doing at first.

When he set it the needles and after it got to running temp 180ish he ran it for 3-4 min blipping the throttle and getting off just to get it up to 240ish. When he got it up to about 240 and then rolled it over next to us and let it idle and explained that it should drop to about 200ish (which it did) when it drops to do it again for a gallons worth to really break in the motor. He explained when the motor motor starts to break in more I might have to adjust it to keep it this way.

Well today I was doing this and it got up to about 240 and I would let it drop. I ended up having to wrap it in a wrist band as I can't really run it to hard near me as I don't have a ton of room to work with (plus I'm not as good ). This worked and I ended up running it to 240ish and dropped it down to 200 idling without the wrist band.

After about the 7th tank of fuel I noticed that my temps were going up when I let it idle. I would run it with the wrist band and get it to 240ish and then I would take it off and it would drop pretty quickly and then all of a sudden it would go back up. I started running it around some and noticed if I ran it around without the wrist band it would drop it temps to 200ish.

If I let it idle it would go up to about 220-230.

So I assumed I was going to need to make an adjustment to the low speed needle (it was too lean). I made a 1/4 turn counter clockwise to richen it and it still stayed in the 220 range not dropping much. So I did it again (1/4 turn) counter clockwise. The temps didn't drop any...I was still in the 220 range. I blipped on the throttle a little bit but it almost cut off. I turned it back to where it was and it was ok. But it stayed in the 220 range.

The only way to get it to cool down was to just run it around slowly without the wrist band on it. I am assuming the high needle is a little rich is why it cools down.

So my question is...what temp does this motor need to idle at?

I have read and read on tuning but almost all of it seems backwards of what I am seeing.

For example the thing is spitting oil while idling which indicates that it is rich but yet the temps are climbing in the upper 220s and to the 230 range when idling. I just don't get it.

As for the high speed needle when I blip the throttle it emits smoke which is good, but yet when I have it just cruising around at half throttle it isn't hardly emitting any smoke but yet it cools down from 220+ to 205ish. Which indicates to me that it is running rich and needs to be leaned out some (at half throttle and short bursts it is running fine and seems to be lean which is what I rather have).
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Old 12-20-2009, 03:53 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by kur1j View Post
I had my LHS set my needles because I didn't know what I was doing at first.

When he set it the needles and after it got to running temp 180ish he ran it for 3-4 min blipping the throttle and getting off just to get it up to 240ish. When he got it up to about 240 and then rolled it over next to us and let it idle and explained that it should drop to about 200ish (which it did) when it drops to do it again for a gallons worth to really break in the motor. He explained when the motor motor starts to break in more I might have to adjust it to keep it this way.

Well today I was doing this and it got up to about 240 and I would let it drop. I ended up having to wrap it in a wrist band as I can't really run it to hard near me as I don't have a ton of room to work with (plus I'm not as good ). This worked and I ended up running it to 240ish and dropped it down to 200 idling without the wrist band.

After about the 7th tank of fuel I noticed that my temps were going up when I let it idle. I would run it with the wrist band and get it to 240ish and then I would take it off and it would drop pretty quickly and then all of a sudden it would go back up. I started running it around some and noticed if I ran it around without the wrist band it would drop it temps to 200ish.

If I let it idle it would go up to about 220-230.

So I assumed I was going to need to make an adjustment to the low speed needle (it was too lean). I made a 1/4 turn counter clockwise to richen it and it still stayed in the 220 range not dropping much. So I did it again (1/4 turn) counter clockwise. The temps didn't drop any...I was still in the 220 range. I blipped on the throttle a little bit but it almost cut off. I turned it back to where it was and it was ok. But it stayed in the 220 range.

The only way to get it to cool down was to just run it around slowly without the wrist band on it. I am assuming the high needle is a little rich is why it cools down.

So my question is...what temp does this motor need to idle at? This tuning issue has been a total pain in the ass.

I have read and read on tuning but almost all of it seems backwards of what I am seeing.

For example the thing is spitting oil while idling which indicates that it is rich but yet the temps are climbing in the upper 220s and to the 230 range when idling. I just don't get it.
what engine is it ?

breakin tuning is very different than race tuning

as long as you keep it running in the 220° range ( measured with a precise temp gun from the top ) and then heat cycling the engine for the first 6 tanks or so all the while preheating the engine when starting you almost cant go wrong .


just remember the more patience you have with the engine the longer it will last . if it is your first engine just chock it up to your learning engine

i chocked up about 15 of them to fully understand what changes do what and how to get the performance gains i wanted out of them by using calculated dremel action

i still learn things everyday
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:17 PM   #3
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what engine is it ?

breakin tuning is very different than race tuning

as long as you keep it running in the 220° range ( measured with a precise temp gun from the top ) and then heat cycling the engine for the first 6 tanks or so all the while preheating the engine when starting you almost cant go wrong .


just remember the more patience you have with the engine the longer it will last . if it is your first engine just chock it up to your learning engine

i chocked up about 15 of them to fully understand what changes do what and how to get the performance gains i wanted out of them by using calculated dremel action

i still learn things everyday
It is the engine that comes with the Losi 8IGHT 2.0 RTR.

They said to cycle it up to 240 and back down to 200. It has an on board temperature gauge. I was doing what they said until I couldn't get it to cool down when it was idling. I tried making an adjustment to cool it down but it wouldn't run hardly at that point. I richened it up to get it to cool down but then it wouldn't hardly take off.
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:33 PM   #4
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we run my sons 350 at around 230 and i didnt trust the on board temp i just used my temp gun.we dont have the losi no more but the motor runs good.
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Old 12-20-2009, 04:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by kur1j View Post
It is the engine that comes with the Losi 8IGHT 2.0 RTR.

They said to cycle it up to 240 and back down to 200. It has an on board temperature gauge. I was doing what they said until I couldn't get it to cool down when it was idling. I tried making an adjustment to cool it down but it wouldn't run hardly at that point. I richened it up to get it to cool down but then it wouldn't hardly take off.
I would not trust the onboard temp thing. I helped a local guy with his truck when he was struggling to find a tune. I got it running and temped it with two different temp guns and had it in the area of 240, while his radio said it was at 270. He could never find a good tune becasue he was trying to not run hot, and his radio was 30 degree to high
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Old 12-20-2009, 06:18 PM   #6
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don't tune to temps, tune to smoke and performance, when you adjust a needle adjust in very small increments (1/12 turn) at a time. if you pay attention you can hear and see the motor do different things as you adjust the needles every lap or so.
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:44 PM   #7
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don't tune to temps, tune to smoke and performance, when you adjust a needle adjust in very small increments (1/12 turn) at a time. if you pay attention you can hear and see the motor do different things as you adjust the needles every lap or so.
He wasnt race tuning he was breaking in which he needs to check the temps, not everyone has the talent to tune to smoke and sound right off the bat.
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Old 12-20-2009, 08:12 PM   #8
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It says in the manual to run it between 190 degrees and 230 which I am exceeding at some points.

I think that unsober1 is on to something here with the on board temp reading being off. I will go get one the next time I am at the hobby shop.

If my temps are off that much (30 degrees) could it cause this?
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Old 12-20-2009, 08:15 PM   #9
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the onboard temp are a pain ,just get a duratrax temp gauge its one of the
cheapest temp gun u get buy.
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Old 12-20-2009, 08:33 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by kur1j View Post
It is the engine that comes with the Losi 8IGHT 2.0 RTR.

They said to cycle it up to 240 and back down to 200. It has an on board temperature gauge. I was doing what they said until I couldn't get it to cool down when it was idling. I tried making an adjustment to cool it down but it wouldn't run hardly at that point. I richened it up to get it to cool down but then it wouldn't hardly take off.
Me and a friend of mine have the same motor. What we have noticed is the motor will run a little hotter then some. What I would do is the following to get you idle and bottom end set.

1st: Set you idle gap to about 1mm with the brake applied.
2nd: Go set your top end and make sure it is tuned correctly.
3rd: Then do a couple high speed passes then bring it in and pinch the fuel line one inch from the carb. The motor should idle for about 3-5 seconds then idle up then die. If the motor takes more then 3-5 seconds to die but still idles up just before it is to rich and you should lean it out a little bit. If the motor dies before 3-5 seconds and doesn't idle up before it dies it is to lean and should be richened a bit.

This method will help you out and get you in the ballpark on your bottom end. I have my motor tuned where it will hit 250+/- a couple degrees. Of course this is in race tune. As long as you motor idles and runs solid you should be fine. Don't be a slave to temperatures and mostly go by performance. You shouldn't have to put anything on the cooling head during the summer to get your temps up.
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