help help racing help
#1
help help racing help
i have a mamoth st pro put an axial .28 in it an some hole shot tires i was just wondering if i should run stif shock medium shock or soft and wat wait and how can i make my axial mor tourque more acceleration and wat else shhould i do to make it more race worthy thanx
#3
Suspended
iTrader: (41)
Ya. Usually set up your truck for the track. Change gearing so it just reaches top speed by the end of your longest straightaway. And shocks to handle MOST of the track the best and comprimise less. If you have smooth track with large jumps set up stiff shocks. If rough track with smaller jumps set them up soft etc.
#4
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
i have a mamoth st pro put an axial .28 in it an some hole shot tires i was just wondering if i should run stif shock medium shock or soft and wat wait and how can i make my axial mor tourque more acceleration and wat else shhould i do to make it more race worthy thanx
#7
k kool its a truggy by the way and wat about the shock oil weight
#8
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Slasher man,
My apologies in advance, I'm not trying to put you or your truck down... that truck is probably a fine basher.
It will never be race-worthy. The engine is WAY too far back in the chassis to be able to turn like the race trucks. It doesn't have big bore shocks (nor would I suggest you spend the money to get them for that.)
It has a 2-speed (according to the specs I can find on the web) so it isn't class legal as a truggy.
It is really unfortunate that manufacturers promote stuff like this. And honestly, the PARTS quality looks ok... but there is a reason it costs so much less.
With smaller bore shocks like that you're going to want to run fairly heavy shock oil. Something like 55 front 50 rear will be a decent starting point... but it is hard to say without knowing what shock pistons it has. Also the spring rates may not be well matched to that. Try it as a starting point.
Try 10k front, 10k center, 5k rear as a starting point for diff fluids.
My apologies in advance, I'm not trying to put you or your truck down... that truck is probably a fine basher.
It will never be race-worthy. The engine is WAY too far back in the chassis to be able to turn like the race trucks. It doesn't have big bore shocks (nor would I suggest you spend the money to get them for that.)
It has a 2-speed (according to the specs I can find on the web) so it isn't class legal as a truggy.
It is really unfortunate that manufacturers promote stuff like this. And honestly, the PARTS quality looks ok... but there is a reason it costs so much less.
With smaller bore shocks like that you're going to want to run fairly heavy shock oil. Something like 55 front 50 rear will be a decent starting point... but it is hard to say without knowing what shock pistons it has. Also the spring rates may not be well matched to that. Try it as a starting point.
Try 10k front, 10k center, 5k rear as a starting point for diff fluids.
#9
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Slasher man,
My apologies in advance, I'm not trying to put you or your truck down... that truck is probably a fine basher.
It will never be race-worthy. The engine is WAY too far back in the chassis to be able to turn like the race trucks. It doesn't have big bore shocks (nor would I suggest you spend the money to get them for that.)
It has a 2-speed (according to the specs I can find on the web) so it isn't class legal as a truggy.
It is really unfortunate that manufacturers promote stuff like this. And honestly, the PARTS quality looks ok... but there is a reason it costs so much less.
With smaller bore shocks like that you're going to want to run fairly heavy shock oil. Something like 55 front 50 rear will be a decent starting point... but it is hard to say without knowing what shock pistons it has. Also the spring rates may not be well matched to that. Try it as a starting point.
Try 10k front, 10k center, 5k rear as a starting point for diff fluids.
My apologies in advance, I'm not trying to put you or your truck down... that truck is probably a fine basher.
It will never be race-worthy. The engine is WAY too far back in the chassis to be able to turn like the race trucks. It doesn't have big bore shocks (nor would I suggest you spend the money to get them for that.)
It has a 2-speed (according to the specs I can find on the web) so it isn't class legal as a truggy.
It is really unfortunate that manufacturers promote stuff like this. And honestly, the PARTS quality looks ok... but there is a reason it costs so much less.
With smaller bore shocks like that you're going to want to run fairly heavy shock oil. Something like 55 front 50 rear will be a decent starting point... but it is hard to say without knowing what shock pistons it has. Also the spring rates may not be well matched to that. Try it as a starting point.
Try 10k front, 10k center, 5k rear as a starting point for diff fluids.
Please don't spend money on that "truck" making it race worth it, bash it learn how to drive and then get something proper for racing, you can get a 1 season old top nocth roller for the same or less than you paid for that truck, and usually people throw in same spares....
Any way please do not get offended, got out and have a good time.
All these knock off R/C's give the proper manufactures a bad reputation to the ones getting in to the hobby........
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
Slasher man,
My apologies in advance, I'm not trying to put you or your truck down... that truck is probably a fine basher.
It will never be race-worthy. The engine is WAY too far back in the chassis to be able to turn like the race trucks. It doesn't have big bore shocks (nor would I suggest you spend the money to get them for that.)
It has a 2-speed (according to the specs I can find on the web) so it isn't class legal as a truggy.
It is really unfortunate that manufacturers promote stuff like this. And honestly, the PARTS quality looks ok... but there is a reason it costs so much less.
With smaller bore shocks like that you're going to want to run fairly heavy shock oil. Something like 55 front 50 rear will be a decent starting point... but it is hard to say without knowing what shock pistons it has. Also the spring rates may not be well matched to that. Try it as a starting point.
Try 10k front, 10k center, 5k rear as a starting point for diff fluids.
My apologies in advance, I'm not trying to put you or your truck down... that truck is probably a fine basher.
It will never be race-worthy. The engine is WAY too far back in the chassis to be able to turn like the race trucks. It doesn't have big bore shocks (nor would I suggest you spend the money to get them for that.)
It has a 2-speed (according to the specs I can find on the web) so it isn't class legal as a truggy.
It is really unfortunate that manufacturers promote stuff like this. And honestly, the PARTS quality looks ok... but there is a reason it costs so much less.
With smaller bore shocks like that you're going to want to run fairly heavy shock oil. Something like 55 front 50 rear will be a decent starting point... but it is hard to say without knowing what shock pistons it has. Also the spring rates may not be well matched to that. Try it as a starting point.
Try 10k front, 10k center, 5k rear as a starting point for diff fluids.
I'm not trying to flame the truck, but the truth hurts.
#11
k yhanx i am thinking of selling this to get a sh xmxb anny way
#12
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#13
k i have mbeen researchiing this buggy for a while but whatss is better buggy or truggy
#14
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Neither is "better," they're just different. Buggies are more agile, things happen quicker. Truggies are easier to drive. They are about equally fast- buggies are generally quicker on tight, technical tracks, especially if they are smoother. Truggies are quicker on more open tracks, or rough, blown-out tracks.
#15
Neither is "better," they're just different. Buggies are more agile, things happen quicker. Truggies are easier to drive. They are about equally fast- buggies are generally quicker on tight, technical tracks, especially if they are smoother. Truggies are quicker on more open tracks, or rough, blown-out tracks.