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Old 12-15-2009, 07:10 PM   #1
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Default Yet another breaking thread (questions)

I ended up getting the 8IGHT 2.0 RTR. It should be here Friday. I am doing research on the "preferred" methods of engine break-in.

I was going to just follow the sticky in this forum but I do have a few questions.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day.

What is considered *slightly rich*? How can I tell?

Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals.

If I understand this correctly the 2-3 minute iterations need to be run roughly 6 cycles worth (run 2-3 minutes, cool, repeat).

As for the 3-4 minute cycles do it the same as the 2-3 minute cycles but just do it for a longer period of time. Doing it roughly 7 times.

Just out of curiosity how long should it take to cool down? (I'm just anxious to play with ).


The kit I ordered comes with "30% Odonnell Racing Fuel". Should I break in the motor with 20% or just use this 30% or does it matter? What is the advantage of using 30% or 20% when running?

Is there anything else I should be thinking about? Did I miss something?
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Old 12-15-2009, 08:56 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by kur1j View Post
I ended up getting the 8IGHT 2.0 RTR. It should be here Friday. I am doing research on the "preferred" methods of engine break-in.

I was going to just follow the sticky in this forum but I do have a few questions.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day.

What is considered *slightly rich*? How can I tell?

Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals.

If I understand this correctly the 2-3 minute iterations need to be run roughly 6 cycles worth (run 2-3 minutes, cool, repeat).

As for the 3-4 minute cycles do it the same as the 2-3 minute cycles but just do it for a longer period of time. Doing it roughly 7 times.

Just out of curiosity how long should it take to cool down? (I'm just anxious to play with ).


The kit I ordered comes with "30% Odonnell Racing Fuel". Should I break in the motor with 20% or just use this 30% or does it matter? What is the advantage of using 30% or 20% when running?

Is there anything else I should be thinking about? Did I miss something?
sounds like you got a pretty good grip on it kur1j , slightly rich means not blubberin out unspent fuel/oil and not loading up on ya if you let it sit for 20 sec. or so .

i would think about getting the byrons break in oil to add to odonnell fuel if i were you .


what engine did you decide on ?

happy motorin',
monty

ENGINE RUN IN

use a heat gun to heat to 200 before you start at each step

You will have to play with the needles a little bit and cover the head of your engine with a pit rag (or similar)

do 3 heat cycles within the first tank at 190-210 degrees (3-5 min. intervals),
at idle on stand? yes.

then run it around on the ground gently only slightly rich keeping the temp between 210-230 (monitoring temps frequently ) careful not to let the engine get into its powerband , do this for about 1 full tank at a time but do not let it run out of fuel .do this for 3 tanks (cooling in between tanks), quarter throttle or so with short blips of more (full) throttle ..

not fast? slow pulls on the throttle in 30-40ft bursts .

then richen the needles a bit and run it about 190-210 on the track for 3 straight tanks monitoring temps frequently(every 2 laps) for the first couple of minutes until the engine runs at a consistent temp and feel.(start to lean out slowly)when you get it tuned in to where its not totally screaming but you have enough power to make the jumps with a slight bog at full throttle and runs at about 210-230, let it cool

(check the plug at this point),

what am I looking for exactly on the plug ? make sure the plug still glows and looks new, if it looks all distorted pull it out as you dont want a plug filament to go through the engine

go out and run the rest of the gallon til the engine richens up dramatically on its own and the temp drops instantly (i call it "dropping its nuts"). this process sometimes takes more than a full gallon .hope this helps ya , pretty detailed

I have had great success with this method and longevity , monty
www.houstonsengineservice.com
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Old 12-16-2009, 04:42 AM   #3
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sounds like you got a pretty good grip on it kur1j , slightly rich means not blubberin out unspent fuel/oil and not loading up on ya if you let it sit for 20 sec. or so .

i would think about getting the byrons break in oil to add to odonnell fuel if i were you .


what engine did you decide on ?

happy motorin',
monty

ENGINE RUN IN

use a heat gun to heat to 200 before you start at each step

You will have to play with the needles a little bit and cover the head of your engine with a pit rag (or similar)

do 3 heat cycles within the first tank at 190-210 degrees (3-5 min. intervals),
at idle on stand? yes.

then run it around on the ground gently only slightly rich keeping the temp between 210-230 (monitoring temps frequently ) careful not to let the engine get into its powerband , do this for about 1 full tank at a time but do not let it run out of fuel .do this for 3 tanks (cooling in between tanks), quarter throttle or so with short blips of more (full) throttle ..

not fast? slow pulls on the throttle in 30-40ft bursts .

then richen the needles a bit and run it about 190-210 on the track for 3 straight tanks monitoring temps frequently(every 2 laps) for the first couple of minutes until the engine runs at a consistent temp and feel.(start to lean out slowly)when you get it tuned in to where its not totally screaming but you have enough power to make the jumps with a slight bog at full throttle and runs at about 210-230, let it cool

(check the plug at this point),

what am I looking for exactly on the plug ? make sure the plug still glows and looks new, if it looks all distorted pull it out as you dont want a plug filament to go through the engine

go out and run the rest of the gallon til the engine richens up dramatically on its own and the temp drops instantly (i call it "dropping its nuts"). this process sometimes takes more than a full gallon .hope this helps ya , pretty detailed

I have had great success with this method and longevity , monty
www.houstonsengineservice.com

Thanks for the input. I got the Losi 8IGHT 2.0 RTR kit so it come with a Losi 350 .21 (or at least I think thats what its called).

After completing the method I posted above the engine should be ready for full throttle running without fear of destroying the motor correct?
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:10 AM   #4
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Thanks for the input. I got the Losi 8IGHT 2.0 RTR kit so it come with a Losi 350 .21 (or at least I think thats what its called).

After completing the method I posted above the engine should be ready for full throttle running without fear of destroying the motor correct?
In a sense , just remember the nicer you are to your engine , the longer it will last .
That engine will not have crazy rpm anyway but will be a pretty good performer for the price for sure .
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:35 AM   #5
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I have no experience with the Losi motors but from what I have heard, they are just like all the other new, super tight motors. Any motor that is so tight that it locks up on the starter box requires a long and careful break-in. If you start leaning it out and running hard when it's still really tight, you can score the piston on the exhaust side and flame-outs, tuning problems and poor performance will ensue.

Use a hair drier or heat gun to warm the motor before you start it and don't be afraid to burn a gallon through it before you start running it hard.
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:47 AM   #6
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So many different opinions on this subject. 3 things to do and you can't go wrong, keep the temp up to at least 200 deg(wrap head), keep rpms low(under 18,000) and give it plenty of fuel(oil). Like Monty said use a fuel with xtra oil. I use fuel with 20% nitro and 16% oil for break-in. I'm not a fan of idling tanks through it but some think it's the way to go. I personally have great results with firing it up, throwing it down and running it for 45 min straight in an area where i have smooth flat surface and can transition into a long grassy hill for heat cycling.
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:53 AM   #7
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Nothing wrong with that hambone. I used to NOT be a believer in adding extra castor for break-in but it really seems to help with these new, super tight motors. If you can avoid piston scoring, they are great but rush it and they are junk.
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Old 12-16-2009, 01:16 PM   #8
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Cyrul/Drake method

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Old 12-16-2009, 06:39 PM   #9
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Cyrul/Drake method

ya baby !!!! WOT method!!!! works good if you are in a hurry and like to replace the conrod after break in
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Old 12-16-2009, 07:19 PM   #10
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why does everybody think that? its just a regular idle with 4 stroke wot cycles where the wheels barely turn, if any. not even enough rpm's to engage the clutch. i've used the method several times (not a rookie method in any way) and had great success with it,... unless this type of break-in causes the case to crack ... ??? doubt it. i had a 2.5 gallon old jpx21 with 0 play in the rod or bushing with incredible compression, some did not believe me when i told them it was not newer. oh well, i'm not here to argue, please everybody use whatever break-in method you want that lets you sleep at night.
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Old 12-16-2009, 08:38 PM   #11
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If you decide to run 30% you'll have to shim the head (add .10mm) to compensate for the extra nitro content. I've tried a few different break in methods and havent noticed any difference in performance or reliability over the years.
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Old 12-16-2009, 10:58 PM   #12
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I had to do a WOT break in when my new race motor broke a piston the night before qualifying. The rep gave me a new P/S and I had to break it in that morning. Worked pretty well. Haven't tried it since though.
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