AE RC10GT2 Pull Start to Non-Pull Start....
#1
AE RC10GT2 Pull Start to Non-Pull Start....
First of all..... HELLO!!! Thank you all for answering all the questions I will undoubtedly have.......
Do I need a starter box, or a drill-style starter to convert from Pull Start to Non-Pull Start? I am new to the RC thing, and I think if I have to pull that cord one more time, I may go crazy..... I have had the car for two months, and the short time I have been able to play with it has been spent fixing the damn pull starter..... I just broke the THIRD one, so I am done...... I just need to know if I will have to modify the car at all, or if it will be as simple as buying a starter box/drill.....
Any help you may have would be greatly appreciated!!
Do I need a starter box, or a drill-style starter to convert from Pull Start to Non-Pull Start? I am new to the RC thing, and I think if I have to pull that cord one more time, I may go crazy..... I have had the car for two months, and the short time I have been able to play with it has been spent fixing the damn pull starter..... I just broke the THIRD one, so I am done...... I just need to know if I will have to modify the car at all, or if it will be as simple as buying a starter box/drill.....
Any help you may have would be greatly appreciated!!
#2
Tech Initiate
I am not an EXPERT, but I have a GT2 and think this is all you need to get it going...
The stock engine mounts are the silver thick L shaped ones, you need the blue finned factory team ones to convert it... The motor will sit lower and the weight will be lower so thats a plus.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMK6&P=Z
You will need a starter box that will work with the GT2... Look into that, but I think most will work...
You may need the non pull start flywheel, I don't yet know the difference but here it is here...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNYY8&P=Z
When you take the pull start off and remove it you need a backplate to put in its place...
http://www.gohobbies.com/itemASC-29034.html
Don't stick to those links also, they were just the first ones that came up.. Shop around for the best price on those...
Also, do share how it works when your done! I may do the conversion soon also...
The stock engine mounts are the silver thick L shaped ones, you need the blue finned factory team ones to convert it... The motor will sit lower and the weight will be lower so thats a plus.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMK6&P=Z
You will need a starter box that will work with the GT2... Look into that, but I think most will work...
You may need the non pull start flywheel, I don't yet know the difference but here it is here...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNYY8&P=Z
When you take the pull start off and remove it you need a backplate to put in its place...
http://www.gohobbies.com/itemASC-29034.html
Don't stick to those links also, they were just the first ones that came up.. Shop around for the best price on those...
Also, do share how it works when your done! I may do the conversion soon also...
#3
Thanks!! That is a little more in depth than I thought it would be. I have a hobby store here in town, I will check with them tomorrow to see how thier prices are. I will let you know how it turns out! Thanks for all the help, and I look forward to posting more! Hopefully I can get to a point that I can answer questions, rather than asking them!
If anyone else has any info, feel free!!!
If anyone else has any info, feel free!!!
#4
Tech Adept
iTrader: (13)
Infinitethrill is correct, those are the parts you will need.
Tower carries the backplate as well.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAGC3
You will also have to grind off the pull start pin on the back of the crankshaft.
Just did this about a month ago, it is definitely worth it.
Tower carries the backplate as well.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAGC3
You will also have to grind off the pull start pin on the back of the crankshaft.
Just did this about a month ago, it is definitely worth it.
#5
Well, I got the starter box! When I was at the RC shop, the guy working there said there was no need to remove the pull start equipment..... Any truth to this? What he explained seemed to make sense, but I wanted a second opinion......
Any Ideas?
Any Ideas?
#6
It depends a little on the engine mounts and what size flywheel you're using. Basically, if the flywheel sits low enough to touch the bump box wheel, it can be bump started. Where that gets complicated is most pullstart setups use taller engine mounts to allow room for the pullstarter assembly to clear the chassis plate, so the bump box wheel can't reach far enough into the flywheel slot in the chassis to make contact.
I had/have a Factory Team GT2 that went straight to a bump box configuration the moment I put it together. O.S. Engines 12CV side exhaust, started with an Ofna Stainless Steel box. Even with the included FT engine mounts and flywheel (which were supposedly bump box OK), I eventually had to do some fairly serious grinding to the flywheel slot in the chassis in order for the bump box wheel to reach the flywheel. For the longest time I thought my bump box didn't have enough power to crank the engine (which made no sense as this was designed to be a 1/8th bigblock box and this was a piddly little .12), but what was really happening was the bump box wheel was burying itself into the edge of the flywheel slot before it could hit the flywheel.
I had/have a Factory Team GT2 that went straight to a bump box configuration the moment I put it together. O.S. Engines 12CV side exhaust, started with an Ofna Stainless Steel box. Even with the included FT engine mounts and flywheel (which were supposedly bump box OK), I eventually had to do some fairly serious grinding to the flywheel slot in the chassis in order for the bump box wheel to reach the flywheel. For the longest time I thought my bump box didn't have enough power to crank the engine (which made no sense as this was designed to be a 1/8th bigblock box and this was a piddly little .12), but what was really happening was the bump box wheel was burying itself into the edge of the flywheel slot before it could hit the flywheel.
#7
I did have to modify the chassis just a little, but it was no big deal. I did get the starter box, and I did get the car started, but I accidentally burned up the motor on the starter box.... Now I have to change that out. I have fun playing with the car, but it seems like an awful lot of work. Maybe an electric would have been a better idea for me. I simply don't have the time to devote to caring for the nitro car..... I just wanted a toy, and not another vehicle to care for. It may be the car I have too.... I got it used, and it has been one problem after another..... My brother has a T-Maxx that he bought new that he hasn't had to touch at all...... I don't know.... I might just be frustrated right now too.....