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Old 11-24-2009, 07:30 PM   #46
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+100 There were 2 choices. TL or AE ?
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Old 11-24-2009, 08:08 PM   #47
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If I was the type to chime in....and sense i'm typing I must be, I would say the Losi, Mugen or AE will all serve you well.

Kyosho is good, but pretty pricey, D8 is good, but pretty cheap, there are a couple of others that would work, but they don't make my top 3, !



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Old 11-24-2009, 09:04 PM   #48
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Personally myself, I have driven both cars, (RC8B and 8ight 2.0). The things that i found is RC8B, (which i now have) is a very good car all round. The amount of steering that it generates is simply awsome. It basically does everything that you need it to. While its not the best car out there drive traction and stability straight out of the box, it is easily adjusted to anyones driving needs.

On the other hand, i felt that the Losi had so much drive it wasnt funny! The steering was great, great stability, but it was a very twitchy and nervous car. Once again, slight setup changes and it will be on the money.

Basically if you are a little excited on the throttle, and like your car to staraighten itself up well, the B is the choice, but if you like a twitchy, fast feel in your car, the 8ight 2.0 is the way to go.

Just my thoughts
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:16 PM   #49
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did u have the 1.0 eight b if so did it feel the same as the 2.0 or is it more aggresive,i use the mike thute setup and its stable and a little aggresive the only thing i dint do was the ride height cause i dont have a ride height gauge
so i just adjust to to where i like it and i use 1 degree toe out in the front it said 2 but i think it would be to aggresive like that though. i might just have to get a rc8 and see whats the diffrence
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:00 PM   #50
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did u have the 1.0 eight b if so did it feel the same as the 2.0 or is it more aggresive,i use the mike thute setup and its stable and a little aggresive the only thing i dint do was the ride height cause i dont have a ride height gauge
so i just adjust to to where i like it and i use 1 degree toe out in the front it said 2 but i think it would be to aggresive like that though. i might just have to get a rc8 and see whats the diffrence
More toe-out gives the car more steering entering the turn and an overall more stable feel. Very little toe out makes the buggy twitchy and aggressive. (Yes, you heard that right)
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:09 PM   #51
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oh so i should try 2@ toe out in the front than i could use a bit more turn in
i try toe in before dint like much at all
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:11 PM   #52
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one thing that seam to help was making the front higher and the rear lower
cause i did have the the front lower and the rear higher and it was digging into the dirt somewhat and nosediveing more off the jumps ,i run on a rough and bumpy track by the way,


yea i im kind of heavy in the front shocks im running 40 weight and the silver springs so i could try
37 weight or something like that

Last edited by tc5 man; 11-24-2009 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:17 PM   #53
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one thing that seam to help was making the front higher and the rear lower
cause i did have the the front lower and the rear higher and it was digging into the dirt somewhat and nosediveing more off the jumps ,i run on a rough and bumpy track by the way
Ride height has nothing to do with nosediving, change your skock oil or springs instead. Losi's run best with 1-2mm higher in the rear 99% of the time.

On a side note, edit your posts instead of creating new one's! It gets really annoying when somebody has 3 straight posts, seems like you are just trying to get your post count up becasue you do it all the time.
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Old 11-25-2009, 05:16 PM   #54
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FYI, my losi 2.0 is awesome but it eats throttle servos. I'm debating myself on which to buy in an electric version. For gas i'd go Losi because of the clunker tank. I hate air pocket messing you up on jumps when you flip during a race.
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Old 11-25-2009, 07:39 PM   #55
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get the king headz radio tray stiffer and you will be fine but still make sure your linkages are set good ,il think you will find out you willl like the nitro better i used to race electric but thats me though
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Old 11-26-2009, 05:58 AM   #56
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get the king headz radio tray stiffer and you will be fine but still make sure your linkages are set good ,il think you will find out you willl like the nitro better i used to race electric but thats me though
I agree. I watch the electric 1/8 run all this season thinking i may want to build one but from what i have seen it's not hard for me to forget that idea. I guess it's Smoke and Tears for me.
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:07 AM   #57
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i just dont like topping off batterys after every other run with lipos also i just like putting more fuel in the tank and go off on the track no waiting and the quite of the electric starts to get old ,grated i do race slash but a lot of nitro guys run them so thats diffrent,yea i had fuel thats pretty bad on your eyes etc blue thunder trinity
but i use byrons fuel now and its not to bad at all nitro to me just gives u a rush when your racing
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:20 AM   #58
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Electric 1/8 is like watching TV with the volume off. I can't claim that statement. It came from Bill Bridges.

Last edited by Chris Reilly; 11-26-2009 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:37 AM   #59
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Electric 1/8 is like watching TV with the volume off. I can't claim that statement. It came from Bill Bridges. It
ha good one lol
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:25 PM   #60
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Well guys,

I printed out the manual of the 2.0 and did a compare of all the steps throughout the two manuals and it seems like a lot of parts were common which is true. I used a highliter in 2.0 manual to highlight the same parts then went back and made a list of the different parts to upgrade and priced it out at Stormer Hobbies to know the cost of complete upgrade.

Not sure how many parts would be superseding part numbers (like rod ends and small hardware) but it would be minimal. A complete upgrade would be between $400 to $500 in buying the parts. I know you don't have to upgrade everything but is good to know. I think even the chassis, rear center drive shaft, updated steering, some plastic parts such as radio tray, A-arms would be still be well over $200. And when you get into certain upgrades it will force you into buying another possibly such as CV driveshaft for those new A-arms for all I know. So it can get out of control.

I might see about putting it up for sale and if I can get enough for it then I might just get a New up to date Buggy if I can keep it within reason for the difference. I am liking the RC8B in terms of its design and little things they thought of. We'll see.
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