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Old 11-15-2009, 03:04 PM   #16
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You dirt bike guys also must remeber a small particle getting through your filter wont kill a 450 or 250, A small particle will FUBAR a small nitro engine.
Hence why most MX filters are quite a bit more course/open than our foam filters
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Old 11-15-2009, 03:16 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by HaulinBass View Post
You dirt bike guys also must remeber a small particle getting through your filter wont kill a 450 or 250, A small particle will FUBAR a small nitro engine.
Hence why most MX filters are quite a bit more course/open than our foam filters
+1!
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Old 11-15-2009, 04:19 PM   #18
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We've had alot of dust here in the past. I've started using a pre-filter to the outer-filter.

something like

I've found it works really well for me. I had a NASTY lookin' pre-filter, but the outer filter was NICE and clean, much less the inner filter. And they really breathe very nicely. It's not necessary, but the 3rd filter element is nice insurance for me.

Under that I run a Kyosho air filter assembly. They protect the outside edge of the inner filter VERY well. And the way the pre-filter fits, it seems to compress the edge of the outer-filter against the casing pretty nicely.

I also use 2-3 different filter assemblies throughout 1 full race day. Maybe just 1 on the best of days, but not common.

Then I wash @ home. If I see any specs of dirt on the inner-filter I chunk it. If I see any dots from the inside of the outer filter, I toss it.
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Old 11-15-2009, 07:15 PM   #19
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Yeah I am an old school Mx rider to and I wash mine aswell if there not to bad , after awhile they do get to a stage when you just toss em if i had to buy a new filter every time it needed changing id go broke .
I use hot water and dishwashing liquid most times and it works great i have been driving nitro buggies for over 10 yrs (in some really,really dusty conditions) and never had a problem with my engines I pull them apart and check everything crank,r,p,s bearings often and there fine and last with never a sign of any excess wear i've used more then 50 Lt though some b4 and they still have good compression , like said b4 use a outta filter and change them when they get dirty your inner should stay clean for probably 4 outta's if you catch them b4 the dust works its way though but i normally change mine after two.. if you can afford it do as you like remember its your engine and everyone will have there own opinions main thing is to have a clean oiled filter sealed no leaks ,use cable ties etc keep an eye on it and replace if needed also if your filters sit's on your buggy ,truggy etc awhile without driving they can dry out in spots on top etc,,sounds funny but they do so it may need to be reoiled or washed and reoiled again
There are 1000's of ways to kill an engine most that i see havent been from using a washed filter i am yet to see that happen There from people using NO oil on there filters ,low oil levels on there filter or in there fuel ,wrong glow plugs, lean tuning ,over reving with no load and clowns that think there filters will stay on without cable ties etc but its your $$$ and engine so its your call . Remember to use a good oil as some are just to Runny and are not thick enough to stay in the foam end up sucking half of it though your engine as they breathe like nothing else there size . I have only ever used 2 or 3 made for the nitro engines ended up going back to motor bike filter oil 5X the size of the bottle for nearly the same price and it works Great as to repair a mx'er costs a lot more then a brand new top of the line nitro engine .

Cheers Adam

Everyone will have there opinions its a good thing .
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HaulinBass View Post
You dirt bike guys also must remeber a small particle getting through your filter wont kill a 450 or 250, A small particle will FUBAR a small nitro engine.
Hence why most MX filters are quite a bit more course/open than our foam filters

um wrong, it's even more important to protect your motor on a MX bike for several reasons. Yes a couple of grains of sand can trash a 450. Now consider this. The price of the repair is far more than an RC engine. On a 450, a little dirt will cost you $2000+. Then you need to factor safety in. No one gets hurt when you blow the motor on your buggy. Now have the motor on your bike lock, lose power, stall, or whatever on the face of a jump. Theres a trip to the hospital.

MX filters are NOT more open or free flowing than the filters we use. It's the same type of foam. Some MX filters use a dual stage foam where the outer layer is more coarse and open, but the inner layer is just as dense as the losi filters I use. I don't care if I trash a motor in my RC car, I don't want to, but it's not going to kill me if I do. If I let dirt in the engine on my Aprilia 450, that's a $5000 engine.
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Old 11-15-2009, 08:28 PM   #21
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Im not talking about grains, im talking microscopic dust. theres are no rings in a nitro engine and not a couple litres of oil sloshing around the crankcase as a buffer.Im not saying the filter oil is no good(as we all know it way better than rc branded stuff), im not saying that 450s are cheap to rebuild. Im just stating the simple fact that our engines are smaller and run much tighter tollerances(and 4x the rpm,) and thus smaller dust particles will destroy bearings, pistons and sleeves and chances are your pipe as well when the metal particles get in there.
Blows my mind people will blow through $13 glowplugs all day but refuse to throw away a $2 filter
alsothe foam is more open, Mx/atv/snowmobile filters are like the older trinity foam tire inserts. But on that there are also companies in the RC industry that sell a really open filter foam that are like the panther white tire foams and you can see through them.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:03 PM   #22
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I change my filter after every race day. I also use a wrap called co-flex to cover my outer filter link below. The stuff works great, it sticks to it'self and is disposable. It also comes in multiple colors that can match my paint scheme.
I use losi airfilters on my xray, works great, and I am able to re-use them with the help of the K@N airfilter cleaner kit link below, comes with a special cleaner that doesn't distort the foam, and it also comes with the air filter oil in a spray can. that works great as well. I've been using this stuff for the past 2 years and haven't had a single issue!
co-flex
http://www.vitalitymedical.com/Produ...flex-3100.html
K@N recharge kit
http://www.autoanything.com/air-filt...f-000423bb4e79
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:24 PM   #23
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Of all you "MX" guys I hope you don't run K&N.....

I've not only come from racing Pro Quads but also raced SCCA Pro Rally.

Foam filters are THE best defense for an engine.

Also make sure you use an "R/C" foam filter oil. Most that are from outside of the industry play havoc with glow plugs, tune and some even gum up bearings and carbon up combustion chambers.
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Old 11-15-2009, 09:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noR View Post
We've had alot of dust here in the past. I've started using a pre-filter to the outer-filter.

something like

I've found it works really well for me. I had a NASTY lookin' pre-filter, but the outer filter was NICE and clean, much less the inner filter. And they really breathe very nicely. It's not necessary, but the 3rd filter element is nice insurance for me.

Under that I run a Kyosho air filter assembly. They protect the outside edge of the inner filter VERY well. And the way the pre-filter fits, it seems to compress the edge of the outer-filter against the casing pretty nicely.

I also use 2-3 different filter assemblies throughout 1 full race day. Maybe just 1 on the best of days, but not common.

Then I wash @ home. If I see any specs of dirt on the inner-filter I chunk it. If I see any dots from the inside of the outer filter, I toss it.
I use the same filter covers on my air filters. I don't have an issue cleaning and re-using filters since I started using the filter covers. Filters look really good after a race day, and I now wash and re-use filters.
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Old 11-15-2009, 11:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pickle311 View Post
um wrong, it's even more important to protect your motor on a MX bike for several reasons. Yes a couple of grains of sand can trash a 450. Now consider this. The price of the repair is far more than an RC engine. On a 450, a little dirt will cost you $2000+. Then you need to factor safety in. No one gets hurt when you blow the motor on your buggy. Now have the motor on your bike lock, lose power, stall, or whatever on the face of a jump. Theres a trip to the hospital.

MX filters are NOT more open or free flowing than the filters we use. It's the same type of foam. Some MX filters use a dual stage foam where the outer layer is more coarse and open, but the inner layer is just as dense as the losi filters I use. I don't care if I trash a motor in my RC car, I don't want to, but it's not going to kill me if I do. If I let dirt in the engine on my Aprilia 450, that's a $5000 engine.
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:35 PM   #26
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I have been soaking my inner filter in a white coffee cup with plain tap water for the last 24 hours and I cant believe all the dirt that is in the bottom for the cup... I washed it before like I normally do... So I am a new believer on new filters every race day. It look really clean after I washed it too.
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:47 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam-E View Post
......................................__.......... ......................................
.............................,-~*`¯lllllll`*~,................................... .......
.......................,-~*`lllllllllllllllllllllllllll¯`*-,....................................
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you might wanna try the [code][/code] tags for that to look right
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Old 11-16-2009, 03:53 PM   #28
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Everyone has their own way of doing things and it is all personal preference, but I have got to dissagree. I have used "Moto" type filter oils for year and basically everyone I know does too. Never had any problems and run RB's and get 8 plus gallons on every motor.

I run a 2 stage filter, so cleaning the outer a few times before replacing is not a problem at all. Outers get the bulk of the dust and i replace the inner when needed. Our filter oil has been tested extensively to protect $7,000.00 Team Rider Motors, so I am 100% confident in it, all of our RC team drivers use it and I actually never heard anyone say not to use moto type filter oils in RC cars. Like I said, it is personal preference. Do what you feel you think is best.

Last edited by Kalgard Racing; 11-16-2009 at 04:16 PM.
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Old 11-16-2009, 04:16 PM   #29
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I usually keep a dozen filters on hand or so. When I get down to the last 3 or 4 clean ones, Then I clean all my dirty ones with air filter cleaner and wash them all with hot water & soap, re-oil and place them in a ziplock bag. Have never had a engine failure do to a dirty filter. I do install a clean filter, once after practice, heats and for the main
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Old 11-16-2009, 04:36 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalgard Racing View Post
Everyone has their own way of doing things and it is all personal preference, but I have got to dissagree. I have used "Moto" type filter oils for year and basically everyone I know does too. Never had any problems and run RB's and get 8 plus gallons on every motor.
It is personal preference. Not that I'm the foam filter police but I do have plenty of experience with "tacky" foam filter oils that use n-Hexane, Naptha, non-denatured Alcohol and those that are in aerosol form that use these solvents along with Propane or Nitrous Oxide as a propelant.

These are "no bueno" for micro ringless engines that rely on the fuel air mixture to lubricate the internal parts.

What was that commercial...?

"You can pay me now or you can pay me later."
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