Why do my servos keep frying?
#1
Why do my servos keep frying?
I just fried a JR 9100 servo on my throttle. This is the second servo in the past couple months granted the first one was poor quality. Anyway, I saw smoke coming from the servo seconds before it died. It got stuck at 3/4 throttle so i had the pleasure of chasing my car around the track before smashing it into a wall to finally get a hold of it. Now on my controller the throttle servo setting it set to "reverse" could this be a possible cause for burning this servo out? (the reverse setting on my controller allows for the servo to function is its normal manner) Also, i did not have to use the reverse setting until i bound my controller to another car. (this car has steering, throttle and aux all in the normal positions). Thanks for reading.
#2
What car is this in, what kind of radio you using, and have you adjusted your endpoints?
#3
could be to much brake epa or just a bad batch of servos like i had with hitec with centering the cheaper ones, do u use a lipo as a reciver battey
#4
I use the spektrum receiver and had a similar problem a couple years back. The problem was with the receiver. I had a JR9000T for steering, and it fried. I replaced it with a brand new 9000T and it also went poof in less than 1 tank. Frustrated, I replaced the receiver with another new one and the problem went away and I haven't replaced another servo since. If you have the opprotunity to change out the receiver, I'd try that as well. I had all my end points set, so it wasn't a end point issue. Even after I replaced the receiver, I didn't change the end points cause it was still good. Hope this helps. btw, the receiver I had last almost a year and a half in my LSP. To me, it was a decent life span for a large scale nitro vehicle that I used twice a week for almost the entire duration.
#5
I am running a losi 8ight 2.0 with spektrum dx3s controller. I did make some adjustments to my endpoints, but I cannot confirm i adjusted them correctly as I am still fairly new to all this.
#8
To set you end points especially on the 8 take off your filter assembly and pull full throttle start backing of the end point untill you have a small amount closed. What i do for brake may be different for others but I start the car and run it full bore and start putting end point where the tires lock up on pavement. That is enought brake for me.
#9
For the brakes, you don't want a full lock setup. You can either do this with the car running or not. I like to have the car running, drive it around and then at throttle, try to bring your car to a stop. It should not lock up your tires wildly. If you lock your tires up, then you may want to reduce the brake epa so that the vehicle comes to a little more controlled stop. This is easier on the servo and the car and makes it a little easier to drive.
Good luck and I hope this helps.
#11
Yup, everyone has their personal favorites. I used to run JR's but I really like the Hitec series alot. Plus hitec's customer service is top notch as well. JR's are good in my book, but the Hitecs are a little better spec wise and warranty wise as well. But these are just my opinion.
#12
Thanks for all the replies, especially gotspeed_2000 concerning the setting of the endpoints. Frank L, you were right, the servo is contacting the mud guard wish I would have had a little more attention to detail, oh well, guess you gotta learn.
#13
if your buggy is set correctly you the buggy should not cause the servos to burn.... now what i have found drive LOSI for the last couple years is that I was buring servos not from the tray or chassis fault but my linkage was set wrong...... got that fixed and running hitec servos - no more DNFs because of servos...........
The spring on the throttle arm should not be compressed all the way.....
The spring on the throttle arm should not be compressed all the way.....