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Old 10-14-2009, 06:48 AM   #16
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I preheat the engine any time I can. If there's time before my heat I allways preheat. I use a hobbico heatgun.

It's alot easier on your conrod, piston, and starter box. Not to mention you won't have to run on the track as long to get up to speed.

Its expensive when a rod blows and destroys nearly every part in you engine.
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:43 AM   #17
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I preheat the engine any time I can. If there's time before my heat I allways preheat. I use a hobbico heatgun.

It's alot easier on your conrod, piston, and starter box. Not to mention you won't have to run on the track as long to get up to speed.

Its expensive when a rod blows and destroys nearly every part in you engine.
+1 I would rather be safe then replacing parts,already do that enough(Poor driving skills)LOL
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:48 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
I preheat the engine any time I can. If there's time before my heat I allways preheat. I use a hobbico heatgun.

It's alot easier on your conrod, piston, and starter box. Not to mention you won't have to run on the track as long to get up to speed.

Its expensive when a rod blows and destroys nearly every part in you engine.
+2 I have been running an extinct GRP, so i've got to go as easy as possible on the rod.
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:55 AM   #19
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unless you like the sound of your piston screeching up and down in the sleeve in your $200 to $400 engine, i strongly recommend heating it up, yes they will heat up on there own, very quickly.....from extreme friction, take the time and do it. If you have a home debot or lowes, they have good heat guns for around 15 or 20 buck's.
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:01 AM   #20
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Im searching for a battery powered heat gun. Anybody know anything?
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:04 AM   #21
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Im searching for a battery powered heat gun. Anybody know anything?
I dont know if that would work bro. When I turn on my heat gun to a low setting my lights still go dim........ so a battery would not power it
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:17 AM   #22
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I heat my engines before I start them every race...every qual...every test-n-tune....why would you NOT want to heat your engine up before starting it are you too cool?

it takes a whole 2 mins before firing up your engine to get some heat into it...
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:33 AM   #23
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This is what I use and sell. It is called THE HEAT and it plugs into a standard 110v outlet and clamps to the head. It will preheat and thouroughly saturate the engine to temps between 175 and 200 in about 15-20 minutes depending on the ambiant temps around the head. It will not continue to put heat in the engine so it will stabalize and hold temps under 220 so it will not melt or ruin anything on the engine. I have left mine on for over 4 hours before with no damage. It will evenly heat saturate the engine not to create hot spots or deform the shape of the piston or sleeve like some heat guns will do if you heat one side more than the other. They will be in stock again in about a week or so. PM me if you are interested in one!!
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:51 AM   #24
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This is what I use and sell. It is called THE HEAT and it plugs into a standard 110v outlet and clamps to the head. It will preheat and thouroughly saturate the engine to temps between 175 and 200 in about 15-20 minutes depending on the ambiant temps around the head. It will not continue to put heat in the engine so it will stabalize and hold temps under 220 so it will not melt or ruin anything on the engine. I have left mine on for over 4 hours before with no damage. It will evenly heat saturate the engine not to create hot spots or deform the shape of the piston or sleeve like some heat guns will do if you heat one side more than the other. They will be in stock again in about a week or so. PM me if you are interested in one!!
The heat is flatout awesome-heats the motor not the carb. I use it evertime I can-yes its a little of a pain to heat your motor everytime but I don't possibly see a way its going to damage it or shorten the life of it. Helps with tuning as its hot as soon as you start it up, wait a min for the heat to saturate the chassis and clutch and parts and your ready to go. The only down side is its only available in 120v AC-no dc version. So I took a gel cell bat and wired up a power inverter and placed it in my pit bag and I can now heat my motor on pit road at anytime. So you are at a big indoor event or something and you start your motor before the race then you have driver intros and such so it cools back off. My pitman sets the truck on the box hooks up the heater ans while your motor is cooling off mine is heating up, so when the race dir says firem up, I'm ready no time to wait for it to warm up, really seems to help on the down and quiet delayed starts.

What's up mark long time no talk-lost my phone with your number need to talk about next year. Ended up selling the the frankengrp to an oval guy here in bama and he flatout loves it. Ended up with cookes turboed extech 24 and son its a frieakin beast. Hope the season has been well for you

Jason
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:55 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PowerHouse View Post
This is what I use and sell. It is called THE HEAT and it plugs into a standard 110v outlet and clamps to the head. It will preheat and thouroughly saturate the engine to temps between 175 and 200 in about 15-20 minutes depending on the ambiant temps around the head. It will not continue to put heat in the engine so it will stabalize and hold temps under 220 so it will not melt or ruin anything on the engine. I have left mine on for over 4 hours before with no damage. It will evenly heat saturate the engine not to create hot spots or deform the shape of the piston or sleeve like some heat guns will do if you heat one side more than the other. They will be in stock again in about a week or so. PM me if you are interested in one!!
That is too neat. That would solve my heating problem in between heats I don't allways have time to completely heat my engine. Deos it just clip on so its easy to get off quickly?

So I could turn "the Heat" on. Go race Slash class, come back to grab my buggy and its allready warm. Excellent!

I'd probally have to put a switch on the cable. I hate plulling plugs all the time.
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:57 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
That is too neat. That would solve my heating problem in between heats I don't allways have time to completely heat my engine. Deos it just clip on so its easy to get off quickly?

So I could turn "the Heat" on. Go race Slash class, come back to grab my buggy and its allready warm. Excellent!

I'd probally have to put a switch on the cable. I hate plulling plugs all the time.
just get a power strip with an on/off switch.
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Old 10-14-2009, 10:12 AM   #27
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I do sheetmetal work and made a 4x4 box that sits on my table, I never unplug it until the mains then I take it with me to pit road. After everybody sees it-they want one. It works great heats the motor to 180-200 degrees does not heat the carb doesn't melt plastics. Is absolutle perfect for breaking a motor in on the bench keeps the motor 200 degrees even when its rich.
You can also use a piece of scrap tile from lowes or home depot


Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
That is too neat. That would solve my heating problem in between heats I don't allways have time to completely heat my engine. Deos it just clip on so its easy to get off quickly?

So I could turn "the Heat" on. Go race Slash class, come back to grab my buggy and its allready warm. Excellent!

I'd probally have to put a switch on the cable. I hate plulling plugs all the time.
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:00 AM   #28
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There is an absolute benefit to heating a new engine before starting. I think some people get too wound up about the particulars like it having to be 210 instead of 180, or preheating the engine EVERY time you run it. But, during the first few starts, preheating the engine makes life for the conrod, crank bearings and the piston/sleeve MUCH easier.

There's no need to get crazy and obsessive about the details - simply put heat into the engine before starting during the first few tanks. It usually only takes a few tanks to wear the piston and sleeve enough that the piston doesn't stick at the top of the cylinder during starting. After that, assuming the weather is warm, you should be able to start the engine without pre-heating. It's especially helpful during cold weather because the sleeve can get even tighter, and it can be really tough to start the engine.
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:02 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by shady3031 View Post
I do sheetmetal work and made a 4x4 box that sits on my table, I never unplug it until the mains then I take it with me to pit road. After everybody sees it-they want one. It works great heats the motor to 180-200 degrees does not heat the carb doesn't melt plastics. Is absolutle perfect for breaking a motor in on the bench keeps the motor 200 degrees even when its rich.
You can also use a piece of scrap tile from lowes or home depot
Would you post some pics of it?

Thanks!
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Old 10-14-2009, 05:07 PM   #30
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If you leave the heater on longer, 30 minutes or more, the chassis, mounts, carb etc will heat saturate as well. As far as not preheating after the initial breakin, there are several opinions on that but what I think about is the metal properties. If you preheat for breakin, the metals expand relieving mechanical pinch reducing stress on everything else. Under heat and pressure, aluminium will expand faster and in turn will create wear. Even when you think you are done with breakin, there will still be some mechanical pinch that will still exist and even though the engine will start easier, doesn't mean that slight pinch isn't there. As soon as you start running the engine cold, the metal pinch that wasn't relieved from initial breakin will soon be gone from the friction from the cold slug passing through TDC. When the engine gets to the point where pinch fails to exist, the engine will lose compression causing several issues that most of you have encountered. Metals expand only so far due to property limitations and even though brass eventually expands further aluminium, the heat has to dissapate through the chrome first and since the piston gets super heated first from the combustion process, it will break in all over again and this time it will severely shorten the life of the engine. I have had engines in the past that after 5 gallons would still push the sleeve out of the block cold and oiled because I preheated my engines each and every time. I preheat my personal engines regardless of how much time are on them and I have had incredible luck with longevity, consistant tunes and overall performance. That's my opinion on the preheated engine theory.
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