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Old 10-10-2009, 06:02 PM   #1
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Default Weird Motor problem..

Ok so i am using the caster Go tech Grenade...
in my hot bodies d8 with clutch set up is stock springs with 2 answer alum shows and 1 stock shoe.
it has a go engines femca 0801 matching pipe.

Tuning this beast the other day.... i noticed that when i let off the throttle it would still rev a bit before returning to idle...

she ran good with great out of whole punch and a good puff of smoke after a 6sec idle to wfo.... should i drop all 3 alum shoes in or go back to all 3 stock carbon shoes.

or is it a tune issue...
i can get a vid maybe...
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:08 PM   #2
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Check your fuel line closely, sounds lean. Look at your exhaust gaskets closely. Stop running it..... do not make the same mistake I did.
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:09 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Joey Platinum View Post
Check your fuel line closely, sounds lean. Look at your exhaust gaskets closely. Stop running it..... do not make the same mistake I did.
its not lean though.... its making tons of smoke on the low end into the high speed temps after about a 1/2 tank of running was 210 and thats cold for the grenade
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:11 PM   #4
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Does the idle come back down after a couple seconds or stay up?
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:12 PM   #5
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I am sure I will get told to get out of the thread as I do not know how to tune a engine..but I will give it a whirl

does it idle down due to the low end loading up? like it will hold a high "idle" for a couple seconds then drop down I have found its due to a rich low end causing the engine to idle down from loading up...

if so lean out the bottom end until you get a steady idle then drop the idle down via the idle air gap screw

just my 2 cents
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:20 PM   #6
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I'm not going to tell you anything .... cause I understand your situation perfectly. I can not say that you were at fault. I can only say that I believe you know how to tune and the engine did not respond to your adjustments.At least you did not damage the internals with your tuning or wrenching, you only damaged the back plate which normally would not have been a problem.Some of the guys on here feel a strong bond with distributors and defend them. nothing wrong with that either.I am glad you are on here helping people out.
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blktransam View Post
I am sure I will get told to get out of the thread as I do not know how to tune a engine..but I will give it a whirl

does it idle down due to the low end loading up? like it will hold a high "idle" for a couple seconds then drop down I have found its due to a rich low end causing the engine to idle down from loading up...

if so lean out the bottom end until you get a steady idle then drop the idle down via the idle air gap screw

just my 2 cents

for someone who dont know how to tune an engine you sound right to me i do believe the low end is a little rich you might need to lean it in a few hrs and turn your idle down but i will tell you my freind runs the same engine and he blew a rod in 2 of them at the S.I.C i believe he was running them to leane so i would run them a little rich.
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:29 PM   #8
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Joey not bringing my other thread in here lets keep it in that thread ...I will always try to help others as I always have.

just to show ya last indoor season one of the local guys blew up his engine during practice and no one would lend him a spare to finish the race day. I had a brand new orion .21 (same as jpx .21) pulled it from the box told him to stick it in his car idle one tank and race tune it...lol and he did and I got like 6 gallons out of it lol he was very grateful for it and anytime I have needed something he has been the first to step in and try to help me.

anyways smokin if u take my advise great if not I understand. but to me thats what it seems like the issue is from the info you gave
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:30 PM   #9
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Also check your servo to make sure you don't have the idle resting on the trim ....if so when you hit the brakes it could stall??? or speed up when off the brakes???
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blktransam View Post
I am sure I will get told to get out of the thread as I do not know how to tune a engine..but I will give it a whirl

does it idle down due to the low end loading up? like it will hold a high "idle" for a couple seconds then drop down I have found its due to a rich low end causing the engine to idle down from loading up...

if so lean out the bottom end until you get a steady idle then drop the idle down via the idle air gap screw

just my 2 cents
+1 I just had the same problem and this is how I fixed it
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samson4721 View Post
Does the idle come back down after a couple seconds or stay up?
no it will drop to a low idle as soon as the car comes to a stop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blktransam View Post
I am sure I will get told to get out of the thread as I do not know how to tune a engine..but I will give it a whirl

does it idle down due to the low end loading up? like it will hold a high "idle" for a couple seconds then drop down I have found its due to a rich low end causing the engine to idle down from loading up...

if so lean out the bottom end until you get a steady idle then drop the idle down via the idle air gap screw

just my 2 cents
i have no problem with you helping me out ryan.. i know it was not your tune that ruined a back plate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DPowers View Post
for someone who dont know how to tune an engine you sound right to me i do believe the low end is a little rich you might need to lean it in a few hrs and turn your idle down but i will tell you my freind runs the same engine and he blew a rod in 2 of them at the S.I.C i believe he was running them to leane so i would run them a little rich.
i have blown one rod due to a lean bottom have to watch that thing close! but this engine ran 419 degrees and still runs like a champ!

Quote:
Originally Posted by blktransam View Post
Joey not bringing my other thread in here lets keep it in that thread ...I will always try to help others as I always have.

just to show ya last indoor season one of the local guys blew up his engine during practice and no one would lend him a spare to finish the race day. I had a brand new orion .21 (same as jpx .21) pulled it from the box told him to stick it in his car idle one tank and race tune it...lol and he did and I got like 6 gallons out of it lol he was very grateful for it and anytime I have needed something he has been the first to step in and try to help me.

anyways smokin if u take my advise great if not I understand. but to me thats what it seems like the issue is from the info you gave
i will take your advice thanks for helping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joey Platinum View Post
Also check your servo to make sure you don't have the idle resting on the trim ....if so when you hit the brakes it could stall??? or speed up when off the brakes???
you know how stupid i am haha it was the servo... not fully closing the idle gap when i let off.. but when i slammed on the breaks it would drop to a really low idle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by race raider View Post
+1 I just had the same problem and this is how I fixed it
cool deal.
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokinu View Post
Ok so i am using the caster Go tech Grenade...
in my hot bodies d8 with clutch set up is stock springs with 2 answer alum shows and 1 stock shoe.
it has a go engines femca 0801 matching pipe.

Tuning this beast the other day.... i noticed that when i let off the throttle it would still rev a bit before returning to idle...

she ran good with great out of whole punch and a good puff of smoke after a 6sec idle to wfo.... should i drop all 3 alum shoes in or go back to all 3 stock carbon shoes.

or is it a tune issue...
i can get a vid maybe...
i will say the go carbs (unless fixed) leave a little room for improvement .

so hard to say as there are many variables but usually a tad lean on low if after full throttle applied and engine revs up a little then idles normal in less than 3-4 seconds . if the engine idles up and then has a nice blubbery sounding idle for more than 3-4 sec. then it is usually rich with too large of an idle gap . too lean lsn leaves engines with tingy sounding idle and usually minor lean bog when running unless overcompensated with richer than normal hsn . like i said , could be one of many things though . like said before , sticky carb or linkage .
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:51 PM   #13
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glad to hear you got it fixed! I thought that but didnt see u post about applying brakes to make the idle drop.
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Old 10-10-2009, 06:56 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joey Platinum View Post
Also check your servo to make sure you don't have the idle resting on the trim ....if so when you hit the brakes it could stall??? or speed up when off the brakes???
Whoa.....hit it right on the head!

Grasshopper says someones engine building/tuneing Kung-fu is improving

I see that you've created an OS Speed out of blown up engine parts. Your skills as a Jedi are now complete.
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Old 10-10-2009, 07:00 PM   #15
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I had this problem with an RB WS7. I finally found the leak today. It got progressively worse; from running on at the end of a straight to the point that I can now basically turn laps without touching the throttle. I could take the throttle servo out entirely and turn laps.
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