Losi 8ight T 1.0 or 8ight T 2.0 RTR
#1
Losi 8ight T 1.0 or 8ight T 2.0 RTR
Hi guys,
I'm getting back in the hobby and wanting a nitro truggy possibly converting to electric sometime down the road. My local LHS has a 1.0 RTR for $425 or I can get the 2.0 RTR for $750. Is the 2.0 really worth the extra $325? I know the 2.0 comes with a starter box as oppose to a rotostart, but I'm sure I could pick up a new or used box for $60.
What would it cost to convert the 1.0 to a 2.0? I'd be willing to use the 2.0 RTR parts being you can find them cheap.
Is there any truth to the 1.0 eating throttle servos? Is this a problem with the 2.0?
Can anyone give me a parts list as to what would be needed?
Is the 2.0 radio that much better than the 1.0?
Are they the same engines?
I'm sure most of the parts interchange, right?
Does anyone know the disadvantage of the 1.0 to the 2.0?
Thanks
I'm getting back in the hobby and wanting a nitro truggy possibly converting to electric sometime down the road. My local LHS has a 1.0 RTR for $425 or I can get the 2.0 RTR for $750. Is the 2.0 really worth the extra $325? I know the 2.0 comes with a starter box as oppose to a rotostart, but I'm sure I could pick up a new or used box for $60.
What would it cost to convert the 1.0 to a 2.0? I'd be willing to use the 2.0 RTR parts being you can find them cheap.
Is there any truth to the 1.0 eating throttle servos? Is this a problem with the 2.0?
Can anyone give me a parts list as to what would be needed?
Is the 2.0 radio that much better than the 1.0?
Are they the same engines?
I'm sure most of the parts interchange, right?
Does anyone know the disadvantage of the 1.0 to the 2.0?
Thanks
#2
you can get the 2.0 truggy rtr from a-main for $695.00 after discount coupon.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ed-Starter-Box
i can only speak for the buggy, but yes the 1.0 is a servo eater. i'd go for the 2.0 personally and it's also a different engine.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ed-Starter-Box
i can only speak for the buggy, but yes the 1.0 is a servo eater. i'd go for the 2.0 personally and it's also a different engine.
#3
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
I have both the 1.0 and 2.0 and neither are throttle servo eaters. Set your end points correctly so they do not tweak the radio tray and it's not a problem. You have way more than enough brake or throttle if the radio tray is moving. I also did just finish converting the 1.0 to a 2.0. Mine are both race rollers though. It's definately not cost effective to do the conversion. If you do the convert, don't buy the losi chassis, but rather buy the bce speed chassis. For the parts list I can tell you off the top of my head.
2.0 suspension arms
2.0 cvd's- This is the expensive part $$$$, you can save by only buying the extended shaft and re-utilizing existing axle
2.0 body
2.0 truggy body mounts
2.0 shock towers front and rear
2.0 turn buckles,camber and toe for the front, camber for the rear
center drive shaft to the rear
chassis
radio tray
Throttle/brake linkage- it's a farther throw on the 2.0
2.0 ackermans
2.0 front suspension arm bushings
2.0 rear shock bodies and shafts-you can use the rest of the shock, but have to change the pistons
I didn't change the center a rear diff housings, they are having problems with the 2.0 rear ends that I don't see happening with the 1.0's
I think that covers most of it.
2.0 suspension arms
2.0 cvd's- This is the expensive part $$$$, you can save by only buying the extended shaft and re-utilizing existing axle
2.0 body
2.0 truggy body mounts
2.0 shock towers front and rear
2.0 turn buckles,camber and toe for the front, camber for the rear
center drive shaft to the rear
chassis
radio tray
Throttle/brake linkage- it's a farther throw on the 2.0
2.0 ackermans
2.0 front suspension arm bushings
2.0 rear shock bodies and shafts-you can use the rest of the shock, but have to change the pistons
I didn't change the center a rear diff housings, they are having problems with the 2.0 rear ends that I don't see happening with the 1.0's
I think that covers most of it.
#4
If I did the convert.....How much do you think it would cost? Would it be any where close to $325?
#5
Anybody?
#6
i would just wait intil lipos and speedos get cheaper before u do a conversion
for the speedo it would cost 325 u could run 2 2cell lipos for cheaper but it makes your buggy heavyer though ,im a nitro guy tough but i would wait intil then and espially intill the speedos are more relible
for the speedo it would cost 325 u could run 2 2cell lipos for cheaper but it makes your buggy heavyer though ,im a nitro guy tough but i would wait intil then and espially intill the speedos are more relible
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (76)
Its not worth it to convert it. It has been done but in my eyes just not worth it. I had both. I like the truggy 2.0 the best. It handles alot better. The motor is different for the 2.0 rtr. Its a pretty good motor. I seen a couple where I race and they do very good with them. If you can afford the 700 get the 2.0. You will not go wrong. The 2.0 have better equipment. None of them eat servo's as previous stated.
#8
What about the RC8T ready to run?
#9
i havnt seen many people at all with the rc8t in my area atleast i heard they are good dont know if they have the same problem as the oringal rc8 though
#10
$200 used 1.0 race roller
$17 2.0 front a-arms
$20 2.0 rear a-arms
$15 for all 2.0 turnbuckles
$26 for all 2.0 CVDs
$50 for 2.0 shocks
Bought all parts off ebay most from the same buyer at different times to save on shipping so maybe $40 total for shipping.
I still need the chassis (I will go BCE, an ugrade I would do even if I bought the 2.0) and rear center CVD. I don't feel the need for the towers because thats just another $60 burnt just to run the 2.0 body as far as I understand.
I didn't mind converting like I did because it helped me learn how it all works.
$17 2.0 front a-arms
$20 2.0 rear a-arms
$15 for all 2.0 turnbuckles
$26 for all 2.0 CVDs
$50 for 2.0 shocks
Bought all parts off ebay most from the same buyer at different times to save on shipping so maybe $40 total for shipping.
I still need the chassis (I will go BCE, an ugrade I would do even if I bought the 2.0) and rear center CVD. I don't feel the need for the towers because thats just another $60 burnt just to run the 2.0 body as far as I understand.
I didn't mind converting like I did because it helped me learn how it all works.
#11
thanks for the replies guys!