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Old 10-09-2009, 08:05 AM   #1
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Default Motor break-in by pro - what to expect?

Hi guys

I'd like your opinion on this one.

What do you expect from break-in services provided by the professional motor gurus that we regularly discuss with on this forum?

More specifically:
- should the engine still show significant metal pinch?

I just got back a mill which I sent brand new to one of the reputable motor tuners/preppers present on this forum. To my surprise, the motor still pinches not so differently from new. Not compression, PINCH, impossible to turn the mill by hand even without the glow plug.

When asked, the motor tuner said it has gone through about 700cc (slightly less than one quarter of a gallon if I recall my US conversion tables properly) of fuel in a temp-controlled environment. I am more than disappointed as I expected to be able to race this motor once back, whereas I believe it means I still have to do most of the break-in myself in the end. And I don't have a heatgun, nor do I have AC power at my track which means no pre-heating.

What do you expect from such a service? Please keep the discussion nice and civilized

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 10-09-2009, 08:18 AM   #2
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The initial stage of breakin on a breakin bench for about 500-800cc of fuel at 230 degrees is to get the engine broke in enough to drop in the car.

Drop it in the car and race it slightly rich. You can put on a decent tune. His service got you past the blubbery rich, critical stage.


It should still have plenty of pinch. That'll still be there for yet another gallon.

I charge $50 for 1000cc brakein on a Hudy breakin bench. Then reset needles to factory.

Better tuners can break it in and get the tune close. I don't want that liability when dealing with fellow racers so I reset to factory, and they have to tune to conditions.
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Old 10-09-2009, 08:21 AM   #3
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Default Monty Houston

http://houstonsengineservice.com/

I will only use this service. Novarossi engines race tuned from Houston!
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Old 10-09-2009, 08:22 AM   #4
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i would consider that " raceprepped " not " ready 2 race "

full break in would take alot of time and alot of fuel paul . at the price i charge , i do alot of work but to fully run the engine so you dont need to preheat any longer would take twice as much time and fuel and would be closer to 120$ bucks to get done . you really should preheat engine for at least 1 full gallon to be sure not to create premature rod failure
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Old 10-09-2009, 08:25 AM   #5
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never tried one so couldnt answer the question, on the fuel used slightly less than 5 tanks which some would say is not enough, a few guys over here use rolling roads which they swear by gets the engine up to temp fast even when running rich i guess because the cars under load but not moving so no airflow it gets hot quicker than driving around, they run till 100 deg C then cool at BDC and repeat 4 or 5 times which also does not burn much fuel but they get good engine life with good pinch and power, I dont know what method your engine went through but if it was similar then maybe its ok?

for info the rolling road is simply a box with 4 industrial rollers spaced so the tyres just sit in them, a piece of wood stops the car driving out the box the resistance is purely down to the weight of the rollers
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Old 10-09-2009, 08:45 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by houston View Post
i would consider that " raceprepped " not " ready 2 race "

full break in would take alot of time and alot of fuel paul . at the price i charge , i do alot of work but to fully run the engine so you dont need to preheat any longer would take twice as much time and fuel and would be closer to 120$ bucks to get done . you really should preheat engine for at least 1 full gallon to be sure not to create premature rod failure
I have to +1 this exactly.

We provide both services and as mentioned the full break in is double if not more because of time and fuel used. If it's a Sirio based engine...... Well lets just say we don't do many full break ins on them.
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:17 AM   #7
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I got the R2R on my Novarossi 21-5K from Monty and it was GREAT, I still had to heat it, as you should anyway, But like said above, it was ready to race(R2R) when I got it, I ran 8 tanks thru it on the rich side and then leaned it a little and it's spot-on. It never died from being too rich like a new mill does, well worth the money to save the pain and suffering from breaking one in, can't wait for the "Balls to Fall" and see what it can really do!
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:23 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by OfnaJoe View Post
I got the R2R on my Novarossi 21-5K from Monty and it was GREAT, I still had to heat it, as you should anyway, But like said above, it was ready to race(R2R) when I got it, I ran 8 tanks thru it on the rich side and then leaned it a little and it's spot-on. It never died from being too rich like a new mill does, well worth the money to save the pain and suffering from breaking one in, can't wait for the "Balls to Fall" and see what it can really do!
i call it "droppin its nuts" , get it right !!!!



should be pretty close but sometimes the older nova engines have a very tight p/s matching so they can take a while .


seriously , i wanted to keep that 21-5k as it was awesome
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:54 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
Hi guys

I'd like your opinion on this one.

What do you expect from break-in services provided by the professional motor gurus that we regularly discuss with on this forum?

More specifically:
- should the engine still show significant metal pinch?

I just got back a mill which I sent brand new to one of the reputable motor tuners/preppers present on this forum. To my surprise, the motor still pinches not so differently from new. Not compression, PINCH, impossible to turn the mill by hand even without the glow plug.

When asked, the motor tuner said it has gone through about 700cc (slightly less than one quarter of a gallon if I recall my US conversion tables properly) of fuel in a temp-controlled environment. I am more than disappointed as I expected to be able to race this motor once back, whereas I believe it means I still have to do most of the break-in myself in the end. And I don't have a heatgun, nor do I have AC power at my track which means no pre-heating.

What do you expect from such a service? Please keep the discussion nice and civilized

Thanks,
Paul
Hi Paul, I can't remember if The Speed Shop did this service for you or not. We have done a lot of engines. However, we usually put within 500-1000cc of fuel on a engine in shop for $30(including fuel price). To put a gallon of fuel on a engine in the shop/stand, etc is a lot of fuel and no matter how you look at it is one gallon of fuel. Some engines need even more than that before they feel "settled" while cold.

So while racing nitro I would expect to have a heat gun or a way to preheat your engine after someone performs this service for you. And expect to take a couple tanks getting it tuned and up to speed. After that(even before a gallon of fuel you can go with it).

Remember it's not how your engine feels while cold, it's how it feels up to temp at 200 or more. So regardless of who did your engine you will have a little homework to do

On my personal engines I run 1-2 fuel bottles through them using the heat cycle method. This is several heat cycles and many many minutes of running. After that I'll have it in my buggy and on the track taking it easy for a few tanks making sure it's tuned correctly, etc. After that I'm running it.

So in a sense after in the car I got maybe 3 tanks at 70% going through it...

Once I am at full pull I may have a half gallon on it

I always have great engines, good life, and good results.

Although many engines may need a gallon through them to loose all metal pinch while cold that does not mean they can't be ran.

Good luck and although I don't think I did your engine let me know if I can help ya.

AB
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:03 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter View Post
I have to +1 this exactly.

We provide both services and as mentioned the full break in is double if not more because of time and fuel used. If it's a Sirio based engine...... Well lets just say we don't do many full break ins on them.
your right monty...

Something like that would have $20-30 in fuel alone, then you could say a couple good days to run that much fuel through it....
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:26 PM   #11
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Yea that's it "Droppin its Nuts" My Bad, But if it drops its nuts wouldn't its balls fall lol, it's still a bad lil'engine
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:31 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by ABURTON View Post
your right monty...

Something like that would have $20-30 in fuel alone, then you could say a couple good days to run that much fuel through it....
oh i know , i have done plenty


i have had customers ask to run it until the "nut drop" and charge for my time accordingly and it was 120$ for this service . i put my name behind everything i ship out also, granted i have no control over what the customer does to the engine once they receive it but i can tell by looking at the engine if they have been in neglect in anyway . its funny how these little engines are so simple yet so dam complex to get em right
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:32 PM   #13
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Yea that's it "Droppin its Nuts" My Bad, But if it drops its nuts wouldn't its balls fall lol, it's still a bad lil'engine
i am jealous but i have about 20 nib engines and 20-30 more that are ready to go and/or ready to be built . i need to get rid of em
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:03 PM   #14
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I hope atleast one is a Toro Nero
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:24 PM   #15
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Monty can you shoot me an email @ alanburton20@gmail.com...

Thanks man!
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