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Old 11-19-2009, 05:45 AM   #31
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Im sure the Z with extended chassis is just as stable as the Hyper 9, but you will get more chicks if you run the Hyper 9, and more chest hair
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Old 11-19-2009, 10:31 AM   #32
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For those who are running the Hyper 9 and coming from a standard engine placement (vertical), have you noticed an increase in head temp? I am running about 20 degrees hotter even though it is cooler out. I am not that concern as long as I am not lean bogging and such.

BTW, car is dialed.

Looking to put on Jammin SBB shocks, but the stock 14mm are just fine, I just don't like the plastic popin cap . Anyone know what a good starting point is. Kortz runs them but I can't find his set up anywhere.

Thanks,
Tom
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Old 11-19-2009, 12:48 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by nta01 View Post
For those who are running the Hyper 9 and coming from a standard engine placement (vertical), have you noticed an increase in head temp? I am running about 20 degrees hotter even though it is cooler out. I am not that concern as long as I am not lean bogging and such.

BTW, car is dialed.

Looking to put on Jammin SBB shocks, but the stock 14mm are just fine, I just don't like the plastic popin cap . Anyone know what a good starting point is. Kortz runs them but I can't find his set up anywhere.

Thanks,
Tom
It is difficult trying to find Kortz set up, try the ofna forums, then try Youtube link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaUjc2bCQYo

If you scroll on the left-hand side under related videos (On Youtube), there are some more videos, you would have to watch all of them, I think there could a few not too many, they both offer tips and Kortz talk's about his set up's and what he prefers to use at Rev Raceway..

Hope this helps
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Old 11-19-2009, 04:43 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by nta01 View Post
For those who are running the Hyper 9 and coming from a standard engine placement (vertical), have you noticed an increase in head temp? I am running about 20 degrees hotter even though it is cooler out. I am not that concern as long as I am not lean bogging and such.

BTW, car is dialed.

Looking to put on Jammin SBB shocks, but the stock 14mm are just fine, I just don't like the plastic popin cap . Anyone know what a good starting point is. Kortz runs them but I can't find his set up anywhere.

Thanks,
Tom
Hey Tom,

Thanks for buying the Hyper 9
Set-up
use this:
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/ar...articles_id=24
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Cheap .21 engine. Modern starter box, finally!
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Old 11-19-2009, 05:53 PM   #35
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easyryder do you use the spyder diffs and if so what do you run in them (oil)
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Old 11-19-2009, 06:22 PM   #36
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Hey Tom,

Thanks for buying the Hyper 9
Set-up
use this:
http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/ar...articles_id=24
Eric,
I am running box stock 9 roller right now with the 4x4 chassis. It has a slight push but I rather have a push the a tail happy car. I need to change out the front arms, shock holes stripped already. You going to make the ACS in Tucson?

Set up on website is for the 17mm shocks. I am going to try the 16 mm this Sat. running 1.4 pistons 35 blue front and 35 white rear. We'll see how she does.
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:24 AM   #37
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easyryder do you use the spyder diffs and if so what do you run in them (oil)
I switch around quite a bit, the spiders when I use them 5-3-1 is good, more steering drop down front to 4 or 3. Standard diffs I like 5-5-1.
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:54 AM   #38
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Eric,
I am running box stock 9 roller right now with the 4x4 chassis. It has a slight push but I rather have a push the a tail happy car. I need to change out the front arms, shock holes stripped already. You going to make the ACS in Tucson?

Set up on website is for the 17mm shocks. I am going to try the 16 mm this Sat. running 1.4 pistons 35 blue front and 35 white rear. We'll see how she does.
Hey Tom the site list both types of shocks I run the 17mm shocks now, which are better than the Jammin IMO. The thing I like about them is the 4mm shafts and the ends dont pull out like the Jammin ones seem to. The front and rear arms do have problems with the screws coming loose, nitro house sells left handed screws or use longer screw, thats what I do. On the rear arms you can punch the screw out the back and use a lock nut.
Another little problem area is the upper arm, be sure to use the inside hole at the upper hub. You want to thread in as much as possible, the threads like to pull out on upper arm. I us the rear camber link turn buckles on the front because they are longer. I have a ton of little tips that make life easier with the Hyper 9, here a big one=



First thing I had to do was find an easier way to deal with the radio tray. I dont use the screw inside the reciever box, instead plug hole in chassis with set screw, the 3 remaining bolts work fine keeping it secure, the wires like to get pinched between the chassis and tray, do some dremel work and zip them out of harms way. Pull the tray as a complete assy much better.
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Old 11-20-2009, 05:57 AM   #39
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Almost forgot Tom, I will be at the Tucson Acs.
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Cheap .21 engine. Modern starter box, finally!
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Old 11-20-2009, 06:02 AM   #40
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My older car, see some of the settings, I like to use medium aker bar. I really like the nitrohouse set-up guide you can pick and choose the set-up the suites your driving type
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Cheap .21 engine. Modern starter box, finally!
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Old 11-20-2009, 07:17 AM   #41
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Thanks for the tips Eric, yeah radio tray is a bitch, hope they will com out with a way to pull all the electronics out in one piece. I am using Jammin shocks because this is what I have from from a long time ago when they came out with them.

See you in Tucson.
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