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Old 10-06-2009, 06:41 PM   #16
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Last season, I saw 2 new Werks B7 Pro's give way, very similar to yours. One in Truggy and one in Buggy, both drivers were very seasoned tuners, could possibly be the engine itself?
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:15 PM   #17
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Last season, I saw 2 new Werks B7 Pro's give way, very similar to yours. One in Truggy and one in Buggy, both drivers were very seasoned tuners, could possibly be the engine itself?
JB
Yes and no. Garet you have a PM. I would rather keep my thoughts private on this one.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:22 PM   #18
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ive heard nothin but bad things about werks motor
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:35 PM   #19
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To all the people saying he was running too lean, that's possible but not necessarily true. Rods will often stretch or wallow out the lower bushing before they let go. When this happens, the piston comes up higher, increasing compression and causing the detonation that pitted the head and top of the piston.

As for what you did wrong, when a motor that has been running fine starts to kill plugs, STOP RUNNING. 9 out of 10 it's a rod about to go, the remaining 1 being either a rear bearing or worn out crank pin.

What motor was this and how old was it?
this is true but what do you think makes the rod bushing "wallow out" as you say... RUNNING LEAN! I ran siro based engines for almost 2 years and NEVER replaced 1 rod,,, bearings yes, but never a rod... with exception to the bearings and carbs i put star based engines at the top list when talking about quality.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:44 PM   #20
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If this is trully the problem, then is this fixed richening the HS needle or LS needle?
These engine tend to be ran lean on the bottom cause they take longer to warm up, so ppl start leaning the bottom to get a strong idle and good snap right off the bat.. then 3-4 mins into your qual it'll start to get hot and feel soft.. best advise i could give you is with any Italian engine be out there the start of the heat before yours warming your engine up for 5 mins.. when you first start the engine and it's cold it won't idle THIS IS NORMAL! once the engine starts to get warm it'll start to idle no prob... when you tune these engines the whole car should be completely heat saturated,,, so don't start tuning on your engine till it's been running for at least 10 mins.. and always start on the rich side and work your way in slowly...
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:46 PM   #21
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this is true but what do you think makes the rod bushing "wallow out" as you say... RUNNING LEAN!
Yes that's one thing, but not the only one.

1. At the time we didn't now this was a fairly new motor. The thing could have had 20 gallons of hard running on it for all we knew.

2. Lowsy fuel can do it.

3. Bad air filters in dusty conditions.

4. Defective finish on the crank pin (rare but possible).

5. Over revving or running a new super tight engine hard can egg out the bottom of the rod.

And a few other things I can't think of right now. Again I'm not saying you are wrong, just that there are other possibilities.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:59 PM   #22
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Yes that's one thing, but not the only one.

1. At the time we didn't now this was a fairly new motor. The thing could have had 20 gallons of hard running on it for all we knew.

2. Lowsy fuel can do it.

3. Bad air filters in dusty conditions.

4. Defective finish on the crank pin (rare but possible).

5. Over revving or running a new super tight engine hard can egg out the bottom of the rod.

And a few other things I can't think of right now. Again I'm not saying you are wrong, just that there are other possibilities.
all very true...
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Old 10-06-2009, 08:11 PM   #23
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There are to many variables to decide what actually went wrong with this engine.I run Werks engines myself and can say the quality is unmatched.
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