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Old 10-05-2009, 06:59 PM   #16
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You can also try to stiffen the right rear shock so it will more pressure on the left front tire.
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
Found the problem ^^^^^

Can you post a pic of your track? Track conditions? Bumpy, dusty, etc.

Can you describe as much of your current setup as possible? Pushing on entry or exit, on power or off. Diffs are only the beginning, and do more for on power than off. You should have a good off power setup diff wise allready. 5/3/3 is close to one of my favorites-5/4/3, and 5/5/5.


I'd try AKA soft I-beams for a messy outdoor track, Gridirons soft for a clean outdoor track. Go to hard compounds for hot blugroove.

Increase rear camber: -3 or -4 degrees on the right. Its an oval, you can use positive camber on the left if you want.

Can you shorten the wheelbase on that car? Move rear hubs, arms forward.
I don't have a picture of the track. It seems to be a topsoil and clay mix. It's pretty hard and barely gets disturbed after a few hours of running on it. I haven't seen any dust come off it yet. The track is 60' long end to end, 30' wide with 10' wide straights, it's a perfect oval.

The push seems to be mostly under power, if I let off to a pretty slow speed it'll get around the turns fine but the other OFNA Picco buggy will walk right by me in the turns. I can literally hold the wheel turned to the left even on the straights and it'll continue to go straight until I let off.

I went with the XTR's just to keep them from wearing out quick. Maybe I should have gone with the M2's or 3's.

I don't believe I can alter the wheelbase because the PCR has the pivot ball suspension.
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Old 10-05-2009, 07:25 PM   #18
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I'm going to assume you have the car with limited cross weight for this advise. Take a round out of both front shocks if still tight take a second round out. Put them back in and measure all of the shock spacing and make sure they are the same on the front and rear and the chassis is level. Now take a round out of both fronts. and take the rear sway bar off. If still tight then add a round in the right rear. Oh also make sure you are running all the same springs around the car.
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Old 10-06-2009, 05:10 AM   #19
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Why are you running crimefighters for oval? When our club ran oval everyone used a street tire (grp is getting hard to find). You could try a softer tire in the front or remove the outside lugs on the right rear tire to help balance things out.
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:44 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GearHd6 View Post
I don't have a picture of the track. It seems to be a topsoil and clay mix. It's pretty hard and barely gets disturbed after a few hours of running on it. I haven't seen any dust come off it yet. The track is 60' long end to end, 30' wide with 10' wide straights, it's a perfect oval.

The push seems to be mostly under power, if I let off to a pretty slow speed it'll get around the turns fine but the other OFNA Picco buggy will walk right by me in the turns. I can literally hold the wheel turned to the left even on the straights and it'll continue to go straight until I let off.

I went with the XTR's just to keep them from wearing out quick. Maybe I should have gone with the M2's or 3's.

I don't believe I can alter the wheelbase because the PCR has the pivot ball suspension.
An easy experiment would be to limit your front droop. This will not allow as much weight to transfer to the rear of the car. The oval guys in my area are runing ridiculously high diff fluids such as 120k front, 100k center and 10k rear, but this is on an extremely high bite oval. I run off road, so I really do not have any other details.
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Old 10-06-2009, 03:06 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DPowers View Post
I ran oval about 10 years ago lol and i ran a hyper 7 pbs and i ran alot different set up than what you got i believe i ran 10,10,1 and i had my shocks set so when i enter the turn the weight shift to the front tires make your right rear shock stiffer and your left front softer so when you enter the turn most of the weight is still on the front that will help with the sterring and just blip your throttle to get around it. hope this helps
Same thing he said,put heavier shock oil in the rear than the front.
The car will be much easier to drive when pushed to it's limit.
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Old 10-06-2009, 04:00 PM   #22
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I ran clay oval at a local club years ago and we also ran street type tires. This is just a backyard track so Crimefighters are the norm.

I'll have to reduce the droop and change the shock fluids and see how that works. Right now the droop screws are barely touching so it's got pretty much full travel.
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:34 PM   #23
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From my experience, push can be corrected in multiple methods. Push can be a result of too much rear traction. If you are running say 3.5 degree toe in the rear, try going to 3.0 degree. Also try some toe out in the front. The hudy setup station manual is the best place to get ideas of what to try to get it corrected.
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Old 10-07-2009, 04:16 AM   #24
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Guess I will put my $.02 in here. If your car is fine on slow speed stuff but push's on high speed.............You have too much rear wing. Not sure what your running for wing but if its lexan you can trim down 1/8 inch at a time or if its a plastic wing you can take angle out, run the wing flatter to free up the rear.

HTH
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