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Old 09-29-2009, 09:37 AM   #16
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OK guys, thanks for all the feedback. after checking and re checking - its the of-on switch
Go switchless. I use the mini deans polarized connectors and they work great. No more switch issues and no DNF due to switch issues. With lipo batteries its ok if the car stays on 10 min longer than with a switch, theres pleanty of juice in the lipo. Go switchless...
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:33 AM   #17
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I ran 65 mins of no kidding drive time (plus any standby time and general tuning time) on my Losi 2000 and it had half a charge remaining. They will easily make it a race day with a pair of HV servos.

All this got me thinking, I'm running unregulated and never even took the transponder into consideration. My LiPO peaks at 8.39v and AMB rates the transponders at 8v; beyond that they recommend running a 100ohm (if memory serves correctly) resistor for every 1v beyond 8. I havent had any issues YET but was curious if it was worth finding a smaller resistor to drop in there?
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:51 AM   #18
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I ran 65 mins of no kidding drive time (plus any standby time and general tuning time) on my Losi 2000 and it had half a charge remaining. They will easily make it a race day with a pair of HV servos.

All this got me thinking, I'm running unregulated and never even took the transponder into consideration. My LiPO peaks at 8.39v and AMB rates the transponders at 8v; beyond that they recommend running a 100ohm (if memory serves correctly) resistor for every 1v beyond 8. I havent had any issues YET but was curious if it was worth finding a smaller resistor to drop in there?
well if they're trying to drop 1v across a 100ohm resistor, they're assuming a 10mA avg current draw. if we can assume a 10mA current draw also, then you would need 39ohm resistor to drop .39V. but honestly, if you really want to add the resistor, why not just use the 100ohm resistor? if size is an issue, well, i don't think the 100ohm resistor is much smaller than a resistor around 39ohms.

EDIT: but wait, are they saying to add the resistor in series to the transponder or parallel?
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:55 AM   #19
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well if they're trying to drop 1v across a 100ohm resistor, they're assuming a 10mA avg current draw. if we can assume a 10mA current draw also, then you would need 39ohm resistor to drop .39V. but honestly, if you really want to add the resistor, why not just use the 100ohm resistor? if size is an issue, well, i don't think the 100ohm resistor is much smaller than a resistor around 39ohms.

EDIT: but wait, are they saying to add the resistor in series to the transponder or parallel?
I believe it just stated that it would be added to the positive lead; read it about a week ago so i could be wrong.
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:59 AM   #20
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I believe it just stated that it would be added to the positive lead; read it about a week ago so i could be wrong.
ok so it's in series and what i stated does apply. so you would need at least a 39ohm resistor to get it to 8.39V to 8V. the .39 volts is dissipated in the resistor as heat.
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:37 AM   #21
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I never even thought about the transponder, but you are right. So what do I need to do to the AMB transponder to make sure it does not blow? Could someone post a link to what should be added and to where. Thanks.
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Old 09-29-2009, 01:12 PM   #22
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Pretty sure what I wrote was accurate; I found the info in the AMB manual.
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:22 PM   #23
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Many of guys run their PT's with 8+volts and there have been no issues.....i could only assume that when guys say they drop to 7.4 under load there's really no fear for the PT as it will rarely see 8+....but like all electronics stuff there might be other issues.....I cant say ive ever heard of this resistor in the AMB manual...but then again did i even read it ? who knows
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:26 PM   #24
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yea the juice probably isn't worth the squeeze.
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:46 PM   #25
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Many of guys run their PT's with 8+volts and there have been no issues.....i could only assume that when guys say they drop to 7.4 under load there's really no fear for the PT as it will rarely see 8+....but like all electronics stuff there might be other issues.....I cant say ive ever heard of this resistor in the AMB manual...but then again did i even read it ? who knows
Same info that was in my manual can be found here. For the record, I stayed above 8v most of the race day; I believe the lowest the receiver showed was 7.9v via the telemetry (whatever that is worth).
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:52 PM   #26
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yea the juice probably isn't worth the squeeze.

Holding up my glass. You got anything else to mix with that juice??
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:54 PM   #27
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No probs with unregulated anything in any of my cars. Hitec 5998tg in one 5955tg in another and 7955tg in my racers strr and mp9 . No probs with pt's or receivers either
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Old 09-29-2009, 04:36 PM   #28
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Edge of Power, an electronic company located in Italy has developed an answer to the age old problem of receiver packs that will last a long time and not have failures. In addition, with cars and maybe some buggys, there is a size problem for the round cell or lipo packs. Then of course you need to find a spot for the regulator and hope you don't get failures with this item also. Not forgetting of course, switch problems that you see and hear about all the time.

The answer to the problem is their electronic unit powered with a lipo pack. They call these receiver packs Stealth Smart Power Lipo Pack.

Why is it call "smart". The lipo pack is a single cell that comes in 1500, 1600, 2200 and 3000mah. The electronic unit provides a "constant and consistent" 6.0V of power to all servos and receiver in your car or buggy. Actually used in boats and planes as well. This electronic unit does not use a regulator.

The Smart Power Lipo Packs are smaller, lighter, and more powerful than current lipo packs being used today. So this means size does matter, weight does matter, and runtime does matter. An example of runtime would be as follows. An 1/8th Nitro car with 2 high end digital servos, 1 transponder, and a receiver will run for 75 minutes on a single charge.

Easy to fit in cars because there is no regulator. Also it takes away something that can go bad! The Stealth Smart Power Lipo Packs come with an on/off switch that can be easily placed any where on top of the radio tray or receiver/battery boxes in buggys. The on/off switch has an LED light that is either green, yellow, or red which denotes the charge level of your lipo pack at all times. Now here is the other good part. The on/off switch doubles as the charging connector. Since this is a single cell it makes it easy to charge and a charging connector wire is included with each pack.

The Stealth Smart Power Lipo Packs are the high end answer to this age old problem. But if you have anything in value you are running on the streets, or prepared tracks, (include water and air) having a battery pack that will not fail is sure a relief. If you look at the cost of a lipo and regulator package versus this superior electronic unit, I think you might agree that the difference is well worth the extra investment.

You can see the units and learn more about them at http://www.teammarketingamerica.com/...directory.html

I have a picture attached. I hope you enjoy knowing about a new opportunity to answer the age old problem over and above the older methods we have been using. These units are made for 1/10th to 1/5th scale cars/buggys, planes and boats with 2 to four servos.
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Lipo issues with HV servos?-edge-power-2200-close-up.jpg  
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:27 PM   #29
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Edge of Power, an electronic company located in Italy has developed an answer to the age old problem of receiver packs that will last a long time and not have failures. In addition, with cars and maybe some buggys, there is a size problem for the round cell or lipo packs. Then of course you need to find a spot for the regulator and hope you don't get failures with this item also. Not forgetting of course, switch problems that you see and hear about all the time.

The answer to the problem is their electronic unit powered with a lipo pack. They call these receiver packs Stealth Smart Power Lipo Pack.

Why is it call "smart". The lipo pack is a single cell that comes in 1500, 1600, 2200 and 3000mah. The electronic unit provides a "constant and consistent" 6.0V of power to all servos and receiver in your car or buggy. Actually used in boats and planes as well. This electronic unit does not use a regulator.

The Smart Power Lipo Packs are smaller, lighter, and more powerful than current lipo packs being used today. So this means size does matter, weight does matter, and runtime does matter. An example of runtime would be as follows. An 1/8th Nitro car with 2 high end digital servos, 1 transponder, and a receiver will run for 75 minutes on a single charge.

Easy to fit in cars because there is no regulator. Also it takes away something that can go bad! The Stealth Smart Power Lipo Packs come with an on/off switch that can be easily placed any where on top of the radio tray or receiver/battery boxes in buggys. The on/off switch has an LED light that is either green, yellow, or red which denotes the charge level of your lipo pack at all times. Now here is the other good part. The on/off switch doubles as the charging connector. Since this is a single cell it makes it easy to charge and a charging connector wire is included with each pack.

The Stealth Smart Power Lipo Packs are the high end answer to this age old problem. But if you have anything in value you are running on the streets, or prepared tracks, (include water and air) having a battery pack that will not fail is sure a relief. If you look at the cost of a lipo and regulator package versus this superior electronic unit, I think you might agree that the difference is well worth the extra investment.

You can see the units and learn more about them at http://www.teammarketingamerica.com/...directory.html

I have a picture attached. I hope you enjoy knowing about a new opportunity to answer the age old problem over and above the older methods we have been using. These units are made for 1/10th to 1/5th scale cars/buggys, planes and boats with 2 to four servos.
Not sure I understand. The pack shows 3.7v but 6.0v in the upper right indicating there is more than a single cell. You mention no regulator but something is dropping output to 6v, correct?
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