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Old 09-23-2009, 04:47 AM   #16
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For me if its Dirty - just remove radio tray , shoot with compress air then brush the left overs then wipe it with a rag spray with WD40

If its really dirty (muddy) - Ill remove the radio tray and engine then spray the whole car with a pressure washer (mind the bearings) then dry if off with compress air then spray it with WD40 then wipe with a rag.

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Old 09-23-2009, 05:03 AM   #17
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I Remove my radio tray, fuel tank, front assembly, and rear assembly. I usually blow the car off with an air compressor. I leave the engine on the chassis if my clutch is still fresh. Its a pain setting mesh etc. The chassis is easyenough to wipe down by hand.

The chassis and engine are easy to wipe down with SG when everything is off. A little tooth brush with WD on it helps.

I SG and GENTLY hose down my f and r assemblies. Dry in the sun, then WD and repair bearings/hingpins as needed if I feel them binding.



Every so often this includes removing every single bearing and hingpin, relubing diffs, cvds and shocks. I make my own CVD, bearing lube.

Reassemble, wipe down arms with WD and a lot of Axe body spray to keep my suspension loose.
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:06 AM   #18
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I use picks for dirt embedded in screw heads, then brushes to get any caked on dirt, then air compressor, and last spritz on 50/50 alcohol/simple green and wipe down.

If it's really dirty, (spilled fuel during pit stop) I'll break it down by section and go through the same process. It doesn't take much longer and when done the car is really clean.
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:24 AM   #19
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I am still amazed at how many people dare clean their cars with pressured water... even if they spray WD40 afterwise. I still don't get how you don't develop craters of rust all over the place.

here's my method when the car ran in dust but not in mud - first, the amount of work will be really decreased if you don't spread fuel all over the car at refueling time

- blow most of he dust of the car with air
- take tank and motor off (thank god for motor fast mounts, long live KingHeadz!!!)
- spray WD40 generously everywhere but the center diff area (coz of brake pads)
- let it sit 1mn
- blow with compressor
- spray again some wd40 in selected areas this time
- blow with compressor
- car is now clean

- disconnect motor and tank
- remove filter, plug holes
- dust off motor with light brush

- plug tank
- empty quite a bit of denatured alcohol on it with a spare window cleaner spray
- watch it become magically minty white

done - reassemble, go run again till next week


Every month or so, remove front, mid, and back of the car, radio tray, shocks and and clean more dutifully with toothbrush and all


Every 2 gallons or so pull the whole freakin car apart and spend 10hrs putting it back into fresh condition by replacing $50 of worn out parts

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Old 09-23-2009, 05:26 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by hairymuffin View Post
After 16yrs nitro experience I have used a lot of cleaning stuff and the best so far is......................................


O'DONNELL BUGGY CLEANER SPARAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I wish I knew something just the same but cheaper in a bigger bottle???
its bike cleaner that OD just stole. My neighbor builds the bikes for the US Olympic team and he has literally a barrel of that stuff in his garage. He is working on getting me the info on it. Once i get it I will pass it on.

Now, I use Simple green and a water hose. Let the SG soak for a few minutes - spray with water hose, ha everything off. Once that is dry I use the Pink stuff (OD but not OD) this is not as strong as the SG but it has lube which keeps everything from rusting . after i rinse that off, I let dry. Then I take it all apart (RIGHT ON THE KITCHEN TABLE - IF I FEEL LIKE IT) I check and/or replace all bearings. I do not clean bearings, for a buck a peice its not worth my time. Check all plastics, check the hinge pins, depending on time frame, rebuild diffs and shocks. (I only replace before a BIG race or 3 or 4 club races.

It is key that you check EVERY moving part, make sure nothings binding


NO rust with WD40




Finish line makes the pink cleaner in a gallon form $33
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Last edited by token; 09-23-2009 at 05:48 AM.
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Old 09-23-2009, 06:56 AM   #21
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Finish line makes the pink cleaner in a gallon form $33
So that's the magic thing that ODO repackages?

Thanks,
Paul
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:21 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lonestar View Post
I am still amazed at how many people dare clean their cars with pressured water... even if they spray WD40 afterwise. I still don't get how you don't develop craters of rust all over the place.

Give it a try sometimes, you dont. Let the WD40 sit for a few minutes to soak into some of the hard to reach places then just blow it off. It works very well and is very easy.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:29 AM   #23
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I pressure wash my rigs ALL the time. Dry them off immediately after with a compressor. Not a single spot of rust.....
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:46 AM   #24
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I do the simple green, hot water in teh kitchen sink.. Air compressor dry..

10 minutes.. Max.
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:50 AM   #25
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ok, so lots of good input here. but mabey im dumb but wont the water destroy the servos, and all the metal electrical contacts? wd 40 doesnt do a very good job of getting in the same little crevices as pessureized water....
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:53 AM   #26
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1. take out electronics
2. soak all metal objects in acetone (no not the electronics...)
3. use a damp shop rag to clean up all unburnt gas.
4. any polish any detail parts (chrome carbonfiber) with 3m rubbing compound then finish with a protective coat of turtle wax (water resistance)
5. put it together and enjoy!
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Old 09-23-2009, 10:53 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kave View Post
Take off the motor/electronics and hose it off with the garden hose. Then coat the entire car in WD40 and let it sit for alittle while, then spray it off with air. It will be clean and almost effortless.
That's exactly what I do, if I'm in a hurry. Works really well, but you have to watch where you're blowing the air/dirt and if you leave too much wd40 anywhere, it attracts dirt. Brake cleaner works good too. If I've got time on my hands, I'll do a complete tear down and detergent clean and give everything the once-over.
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Old 09-23-2009, 11:59 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Joey Platinum View Post
I take off the radio tray, engine and fuel tank. Then I spray simple green on at a 50/50 mix and let it sit for maybe 2 minutes and use the pressure washer, using very low pressure. I have a short pistol wand ,and i stay away from bearings. It will clean out screw heads and clean the hell out of little nooks and crannies.Then I use compressed air, spray it down with Amsoil Silicone spray and Tag body spray. I like to wear a disguise when I do this while cursing, my neighbors are convinced I am CRAZY. They never ask to borrow anything!!!!
what does the tag body spray achieve other than the smell?
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Old 09-23-2009, 01:24 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by token View Post
its bike cleaner that OD just stole. My neighbor builds the bikes for the US Olympic team and he has literally a barrel of that stuff in his garage. He is working on getting me the info on it. Once i get it I will pass it on.

Now, I use Simple green and a water hose. Let the SG soak for a few minutes - spray with water hose, ha everything off. Once that is dry I use the Pink stuff (OD but not OD) this is not as strong as the SG but it has lube which keeps everything from rusting . after i rinse that off, I let dry. Then I take it all apart (RIGHT ON THE KITCHEN TABLE - IF I FEEL LIKE IT) I check and/or replace all bearings. I do not clean bearings, for a buck a peice its not worth my time. Check all plastics, check the hinge pins, depending on time frame, rebuild diffs and shocks. (I only replace before a BIG race or 3 or 4 club races.

It is key that you check EVERY moving part, make sure nothings binding


NO rust with WD40




Finish line makes the pink cleaner in a gallon form $33
Finishline!!!I am familiar with that,my son races BMX.....Sometime I take nothing off my car and just hit the suspension, that odonnell stuff has some kind of lube it it witch makes it oily. Simple green has water in it and leaves it dry looking. I did the waterhose thing for years not good!! I dont care how good you blow it off with wd40!!! Running ina mud race OK i can see that but to keep it simple just use a good spray on solution of your liking. Ask a top name pro what he does? Most dont tear down there car after every run,I sure dont..Big race yes but keep it simple for everyday use.. A rag and compressor and a toothbrush,cant beat that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-23-2009, 01:38 PM   #30
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Finishline!!!I am familiar with that,my son races BMX.....Sometime I take nothing off my car and just hit the suspension, that odonnell stuff has some kind of lube it it witch makes it oily. Simple green has water in it and leaves it dry looking. I did the waterhose thing for years not good!! I dont care how good you blow it off with wd40!!! Running ina mud race OK i can see that but to keep it simple just use a good spray on solution of your liking. Ask a top name pro what he does? Most dont tear down there car after every run,I sure dont..Big race yes but keep it simple for everyday use.. A rag and compressor and a toothbrush,cant beat that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sit right next to a Factory Pro racer, and you best believe he tears his stuff down to the screws EVERY time he finished racing, even at a big race, the pro guys are rebuilding and checking every part of that car before the main.

I have been using the simple green, the bike wash and WD40 with a water hose and compressor for YEARS and I never had a rusted screw, bad bearing or any problems
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