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Old 10-06-2009, 08:24 PM   #31
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Of course the cars are going to handle different with the same set up. They are different cars. as far as the rear hubs go get the kingz head rear hub. Yes it 65 bucks but when you break a rear hub your already at that price. Just my 2 cents. Other people are going to argue and say they dont break but you will have that one freak accident that breaks somethin you thought never would break
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:12 AM   #32
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What about the servo problems on the 1.0?
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:35 AM   #33
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set your epa, make sure the servo isnt hitting the chassis and youll be fine. the servo will fail faster in a losi 1.0 w/ or w/o a stiffener. Some people swear buy it. I only had one fail in the 5 months i owned a 1.0 but it was an epa issue. Ask any losi factory driver, all will tell you to set the epa and forget the stiffener. if your really worried about the servo you can get a 2.0 radio tray and 2.0 linkage and you wont have to worry.
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Old 10-07-2009, 04:38 PM   #34
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Thanks, epa is set right, just need to add some spacers. But whats the main differance in the radio trays?
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Old 10-07-2009, 05:41 PM   #35
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The 2.0 radio try does not use the rubber o-ring in the rear of the battery holder. It also sits farther away from the center diff which requires you to buy the 2.0 linkage kit also.
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:03 PM   #36
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Thanks
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Old 10-12-2009, 02:47 PM   #37
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OK guys, got another question, I want the King Headz rear hubs with the larger bearing and they just make it for the 2.0, Can I use it on a 1.0 and just change the outer hinge pin, or will I have to change arms too?
I tried to get ahold of JDUB and get a set of his but he wont return the PM.
THANKS........
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:36 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OfnaJoe View Post
OK guys, got another question, I want the King Headz rear hubs with the larger bearing and they just make it for the 2.0, Can I use it on a 1.0 and just change the outer hinge pin, or will I have to change arms too?
I tried to get ahold of JDUB and get a set of his but he wont return the PM.
THANKS........


Jdub run's mugen now...that's why he wont respond.....you can just drill out the arm to the 2.0 pin's...quick and easy and all you need is the hubs and the pins.
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Old 10-13-2009, 03:31 AM   #39
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Thanks, I got a set of hubs from bphil49, when those wear out I am getting the King Headz ones.
Thanks again Integra
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:45 PM   #40
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Default i have a ? also,

hey guys, usfull info! thanx!

got a couple ?'s for ya, im converting my 1.0 race roller to a 1.5 i guess lol

got the 2.0 chassis, getting the rear center shaft, is there anything else i'll need to use this chassis?
im going to keep all the stock 1.0 suspension parts on for now.

also, looking at the parts diagram, it looks like the rear 2.0 body mounts are longer, and reach towards the front of the truck more then the 1.0's, anyone know how much longer they are? is it the same 14mm's that the chassis is?

looking to use my Proline body that i painted for my 1.0, guess i'll make some spacers for the rear mounts to make it work if the 2.0 mounts wont do it.

Thanx in advance!

Isaac
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:20 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by OfnaJoe View Post
I am going to do a 2.0 or BCE chassis and center smart diff, do you guys think it would be a good local club racer or should I bail out now and get a 2.0?
if you are going for this route, you have also to buy the middle rear shaft. do this and you will have a great buggy w the BCE chassis!!!
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Old 10-14-2009, 08:29 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by Nighthawk View Post
hey guys, usfull info! thanx!

got a couple ?'s for ya, im converting my 1.0 race roller to a 1.5 i guess lol

got the 2.0 chassis, getting the rear center shaft, is there anything else i'll need to use this chassis?
im going to keep all the stock 1.0 suspension parts on for now.

also, looking at the parts diagram, it looks like the rear 2.0 body mounts are longer, and reach towards the front of the truck more then the 1.0's, anyone know how much longer they are? is it the same 14mm's that the chassis is?

looking to use my Proline body that i painted for my 1.0, guess i'll make some spacers for the rear mounts to make it work if the 2.0 mounts wont do it.

Thanx in advance!

Isaac


if your talkin truggy then you need the tower's as well...the mounts sit a lot lower on the tower to accommodate the new body and the front's are a little narrower then the 1.0's....unfortunately i dont think you can rig up a 1.0 body on a 2.0 chassis without cutting the rear end up to clear things and elongating the holes you already have made.
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Old 10-14-2009, 10:34 PM   #43
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i just picked up an 8ght 1.0 roller. htis is going to be strictly a racer. what im asking for is some help with any aftermarket part to make this a bad machine. im new to buggy sceen, ive been doin monster trucks but i want to go faster.. lmk thank you
Long live the 1.0
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Old 10-15-2009, 05:00 PM   #44
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if your talkin truggy then you need the tower's as well...the mounts sit a lot lower on the tower to accommodate the new body and the front's are a little narrower then the 1.0's....unfortunately i dont think you can rig up a 1.0 body on a 2.0 chassis without cutting the rear end up to clear things and elongating the holes you already have made.
well i posted that ?, and then went to work on it anyway, and i found that all you need to do, if you have a 1.0 and 1.0 body, is to put the 2.0 chassis on, rear center shaft, and "rear" 2.0 body mounts, the 1.0 towers are fine like this, and only slight triming was needed to the upper rear part of the rear wheel wells on my Proline Harddrive 1.0 body.

Thanx
Isaac
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Old 10-16-2009, 07:22 AM   #45
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Originally Posted by Nighthawk View Post
well i posted that ?, and then went to work on it anyway, and i found that all you need to do, if you have a 1.0 and 1.0 body, is to put the 2.0 chassis on, rear center shaft, and "rear" 2.0 body mounts, the 1.0 towers are fine like this, and only slight triming was needed to the upper rear part of the rear wheel wells on my Proline Harddrive 1.0 body.

Thanx
Isaac
lets see a pic.
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