this should test all you engine experts.
#1
this should test all you engine experts.
Here it is. My ninja runs fine. but it runs cold, like really cold. After 3 tanks, i can reach down and pick my buggy up by the cooling head with no problem. runs anywhere between 138 and 180. Mostly around 155. New temp gun. I have the HSN set at 2 1/8 and my low speed and 3 3/4 out and my mid leaned 2 hours. and from what i understand this is still a too lean setting for most people. I am running 20% oddonell with just the silver shim and not the copper one. I have no idea how to explain this. Or maybe i am in the twilight zone
so can someone explain?? Or have a idea on why? remember now, it runs constant and has no leaks. New bearings and sealed. well the idle is low, and will stall out if i leave it too long. But that is not unusual
so is this a annomoly? a one of a kind engine? It runs great and rips. I mean i can run it and run it and run it. Leaner, richer doesnt matter.
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so can someone explain?? Or have a idea on why? remember now, it runs constant and has no leaks. New bearings and sealed. well the idle is low, and will stall out if i leave it too long. But that is not unusual
so is this a annomoly? a one of a kind engine? It runs great and rips. I mean i can run it and run it and run it. Leaner, richer doesnt matter.
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#5
do you notice any oil coming out of the exhaust?
#6
Tech Master
If it runs good like you said & milage is comparable to others at your track then I would say your temp gun is off or you measure differently than others. Sounds cold to me but I only use temp guns if motor is running really strong all the sudden & to double check my brain from the stand so random pit guys can work with the way I like my motors.
If its one of those lazer pistol grip guages the lazer should not be pointed at the plug or you'll be checking temp at the top of the head not the plug wich is the most common place to check.
If its one of those lazer pistol grip guages the lazer should not be pointed at the plug or you'll be checking temp at the top of the head not the plug wich is the most common place to check.
#7
Tech Master
If it tuns good then just run it.
#8
Tech Addict
If your air filter is restrictive/very dirty/ very oily....it can effect the air to fuel ratio and thereby cause it to run rich in a situation where exact tunings on a different engine with a clean filter would run leaner. The same is true if your exhaust is restrictive.
#9
Would the plug have anything to do with it runing that low?
#10
I hear ya guys. I guess i could lean the low end out. I am worried that i will wear out my sleeve so if it ever does get around 200 it will have no compression.
Just have to get a new P/s set when it wears out.
Just have to get a new P/s set when it wears out.
#11
Running too cold wears out the piston prematurely. When cold the sleeve is too tight, as the engine heats the sleeve loosens its grip, when the engine heats a little more, the piston expands and fits the hot sleeve. The piston and sleeve expand and contract at different rates, this is why final breakin at race temp is so important.
Allthough it is perfectly possible to be running at proper temps and have a cool head. Ex. airplane engines have never burned me. ( and use that stupid temp gauge for target practice allready. k?)
Can you post a pic of this "Mid" needle you speak of. The high end is on the brass fuel inlet post, the low end is on the slide near the linkage pivot ball connection. The mid is on the side of the carb and the idle is a tiny screw thats on the neck crooked.
Pretty sure you weren't supposed to screw with the mid! I don't think that "mid" needle really states what that screw deos very well!
Every mid I've messed got reset back to factory quick.
Allthough it is perfectly possible to be running at proper temps and have a cool head. Ex. airplane engines have never burned me. ( and use that stupid temp gauge for target practice allready. k?)
Can you post a pic of this "Mid" needle you speak of. The high end is on the brass fuel inlet post, the low end is on the slide near the linkage pivot ball connection. The mid is on the side of the carb and the idle is a tiny screw thats on the neck crooked.
Pretty sure you weren't supposed to screw with the mid! I don't think that "mid" needle really states what that screw deos very well!
Every mid I've messed got reset back to factory quick.
Last edited by Zerodefect; 09-16-2009 at 05:47 PM.
#12
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
lean your low end an hour at a time do a couple laps make sure your blowing a puff of smoke coming out of turns bring it in after a couple laps.If idle speed is high with break on, turn down idle screw.do this a couple of times leaning low end one hour at a time until you hit the 200's.
check your low end needle setting it sounds way rich.A good base setting is one full turn from flush.You are running way rich and engine life will be way short!
check your low end needle setting it sounds way rich.A good base setting is one full turn from flush.You are running way rich and engine life will be way short!
#13
If your air filter is restrictive/very dirty/ very oily....it can effect the air to fuel ratio and thereby cause it to run rich in a situation where exact tunings on a different engine with a clean filter would run leaner. The same is true if your exhaust is restrictive.
#14
+2 on the air filter. clogged air filters can do weird things. REAL WEIRD THiNGS!!!!!
I tried the trick where you use a strip of paper towel as a prefilter. That was interesting. Engine ran real goofy. Rich on low, lean on top, needed to crank the idle in a mile, tons of bottom end (even though it was pukeing smoke), no top (even though it leaned out nice) and it ran kinda warm. I wonder if that Rctech poster was just messing with me????
Lesson learned: Do not f with air filters. I use proline lowprofile foams, and use an extra foam prefilter. Filter oiled, prefilter oil, another prefilter stretched loose on top, unoiled.
I tried the trick where you use a strip of paper towel as a prefilter. That was interesting. Engine ran real goofy. Rich on low, lean on top, needed to crank the idle in a mile, tons of bottom end (even though it was pukeing smoke), no top (even though it leaned out nice) and it ran kinda warm. I wonder if that Rctech poster was just messing with me????
Lesson learned: Do not f with air filters. I use proline lowprofile foams, and use an extra foam prefilter. Filter oiled, prefilter oil, another prefilter stretched loose on top, unoiled.
#15
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
My needle settings are as follows, I use these settings in oval and offrad for truggy, oval, runtime doesnt matter, truggy 10 to 11 min 235 with an exergen.
HSN 3 turns in from flush
LSN 2 hours in from flush
Mid is flush at 3 oclock
7mm insert Nitrotane 30%
idle gap about 1mm
Idle's all day, tons of grunt and topend
Most of the JX's i have seen or tuned run very well with those settings, the modded button can change that but very little, mostly just a slighly richer setting.
HSN 3 turns in from flush
LSN 2 hours in from flush
Mid is flush at 3 oclock
7mm insert Nitrotane 30%
idle gap about 1mm
Idle's all day, tons of grunt and topend
Most of the JX's i have seen or tuned run very well with those settings, the modded button can change that but very little, mostly just a slighly richer setting.