Loctite an engines head and backplate?
 

Too late, I already did it before I had someone tell me 'NO!'...

So, why not?

what engine? youll just have a really really really good chance of stripping the bolts

you want those screws to come out when they need to takin out...

Shite. It's the Losi 350. I used blue loctite.

The engine case that the head screws screw into gets hot anyway... and incase you don't know, loctite basically melts with heat... I figure loctiting anythign that bolts into the engine is useless because the loctite will burn away... If you see some smoke coming off your engine on start up... don't be alarmed.. it'll be your loctite burning off...

I got the same info on another thread, thanks. This eases my mind a bit. :sweat:

I've applied some loctite to the flywheel nut and there was a bluish/purple goo all over it after 4 tanks running.

If you have problem with loose screws, you can tighten them a little more, when the engine is warm.

Cheers :)

Yup :nod::nod::nod::nod: it's no use to loctite anything that gets hot :D:D

Wouldnt blue be okay ? red is the stuff that you put on when you dont have any plans of ever takig it off right? Its not like your takening your head and back plate off every weekend any way.

The general consensus is that loctite on any part that gets hot is useless anyways as it will degrade and no longer loc-tite.

It still works good for a while in many HOT aplications like the adjusting nut on my oddball clutch. The red wont turn back to liquid it will just be a little softer/gooyer than blue. If you want perma hold on hot parts use the green that is suppose to be applied after nut insallation, during the install.The green has to hit above 300deg to debond.I would not recomend that stuff unless your sure about what your doing.

For a flywheel collet a brass one with no locktite will work better than a steel collet with locktite.Never had a problem with propperly torqued head backplate bolts though,not even the Nove slotted ones.