RB Killer 9 Shimming Question
 

I have a new Killer 9 and went to add shims to head for proper displacement per manual. I took of button and found 4- .2mm shims for .8mm, but the schematic for the killer 9 shows only 1- .2mm.

Let me now what you think. I am leaning towards 2-.2mm shims. Just like my C6 USA

Look at the bottom/ left of the scematics page.
It tells you 4x.20mm shims for running 25% Nitro.
You could add another shim if your going to be
running 30% Nitro, to be safe. Maybe take one
of the .2 shims out and add a .3, to keep from
going too far. Me, I would leave the shimming
like it is and still run the 30%.

+1

you can add an extra shim(.1-.2) for break-in...but make sure to remove it before trying to race tune it.

Thanks for pointing out the back of the schematic. I looked at my other RB schematic and it had the shimming on the front page. I added a .1 shim to be safe.

Thanks Again

Seeing as no one knows how this Asian based RB
is going hold up yet. You may want to pull the
backplate off and check the lower con rod bushing
for wear and to see how the bearings are holding up
after the first gallon or so of fuel.
Could you please keep us informed on this engine?
I would like to here about its inital pinch (ie. is it a
starter box killer when starting) and how much fuel
you ran before the pinch loosens up. Take a few notes
and give us your thoughts on your Killer 9.

Asian-based? Did I miss something? I thought RB were still made by NR.

Not the killer 9.

I have heard this a couple of tmes but have yet to find any supporting information to back it up. I have a k9 on the way, it will be here monday.

give us a review when you tune it

Just finished the initial break in. I've run about 6 complete tanks through the car so far. It was a nightmare to start the first time. The pinch was killing my starter box. Once I finally got it to turn over, I found that the factory needle settings were way too fat. It flooded the engine almost immediately. Once I got the needles right it fired up and ran smooth. Last run for break in I leaned it a little and ran it around the yard. It was still rich and spitting oil. Temps hit 217 and I got 9 minutes out of a little less than a full tank.
I'm headed to the track in a few and will update again afterwards.

I was told this engine is pretty much the same as a "force" engine...not even made by RB?..

When you get the RB Box with the Killer 9 in it, you will see the sticker on the box saying its made in Taiwan.
This RB Engine is not a Novarossi based engine made in Italy.
It does look very nice though!
I no longer have mine. Let it go to buy a helmet but didnt get the helmet so just got another engine.

All RB mills have required a .1mm shim to run 30%, that being said...I have run stock simming in one of my C6's and I never noticed a difference and I got 8 1/2 gallons out of it with no rod and no bearing upgardes.

I just got a B9 and I did the shim this one.

Given that it's made by a different manufacturer, I wouldn't assume that the same rule applies to these engines unless it's stated in the instructions or by a manufacturer's rep.