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Old 09-16-2009, 07:47 PM   #16
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Given that it's made by a different manufacturer, I wouldn't assume that the same rule applies to these engines unless it's stated in the instructions or by a manufacturer's rep.
The manual for the Killer 9 says to add a .1mm shim for 30%.
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:01 PM   #17
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Fair enough. I was concerned that applying what worked for another engine to this one may cause damage unless it's set-up that way. Good to know. Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-17-2009, 05:39 AM   #18
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Given that it's made by a different manufacturer, I wouldn't assume that the same rule applies to these engines unless it's stated in the instructions or by a manufacturer's rep.
I agree, I would just find out for sure if it is not in the directions just because they seem to ship all their motors ready to run on 25%, thats was all I was saying, but you are correct, I would not assume anything. If he needs to run it before he gets an answer, adding the shim would not hurt anything.
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:04 PM   #19
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Default RB Killer 9

any updates on how the motor is running?
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Old 09-25-2009, 06:14 PM   #20
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any updates on how the motor is running?
+1
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Old 09-25-2009, 07:15 PM   #21
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I have started breaking in my Killer 9 too. It has so much pinch that it was starting to frustrate me because it kept locking up even tho I preheated it with a hairdryer. My fresh gell cell could not hang so i jumped it off my full size car battery. The needles were off for me also, almost a full turn top and bottom to get it to idle the first tank. I also replaced the RB #5 plug for a OD 97T. Once I got it started it idled the whole tank as I helped heating the engine with the hairdryer. After the first tank I ran two more tanks wide open on my street but fully rich with aluminum foil around the head, with no Stalls!! I will be breaking it in more tomorrow and race it on Sunday. I will report back with my results. This is in my Losi 8ight T 2.0 matched with a 2045/192 header and gas cooler. Word to the wise you better have a good starter box, you will need it!!!
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Old 09-25-2009, 07:21 PM   #22
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My buddy just tesed his today with needles set for break in still. He said it has more power than his plus 4 Nova. He is impressed so far, now time will tell.
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Old 09-25-2009, 08:56 PM   #23
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I ran mine again today to start dialing it in. Seems to be pretty easy to tune, fires right up and idles fine. Still a TON of pinch. So much I converted my starter box to lipo to help it. I've yet to put it on the track to see how fast it really is, hopefully next week I'll get to spend a day out there.
So far I'm running it at 220 degrees and it leaves a solid smoke trail from a dead stop to WOT. Seems like I could lean it some more, but I'm not ready to get the temps up any higher yet.
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Old 09-25-2009, 09:37 PM   #24
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any updates on how the motor is running?
I will tell victoryside to look at this. He is very pleased with the Killer 9 so far. I know it was bitchy during break in, but is all good now. His other engine is a c6USA which can pull stumps out. So the bar is set pretty high......
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Old 09-26-2009, 04:39 AM   #25
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1.what pipe combo you guys run ?

2. Pressure line - what's the length like ? Heard the engine needs longer pressure line !
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Old 09-26-2009, 04:01 PM   #26
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Victoryside is running a 2045 pipe with a 6.5 venturi and was getting 11 min till dry today in his RC8 buggy running 250 temps. He's psyched on it.
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Old 09-26-2009, 08:24 PM   #27
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I'm running a 053 pipe right now, seems like too much bottom end. I just picked up a JP-2 and will try that out soon.
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Old 09-27-2009, 11:36 AM   #28
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I'm running a 053 pipe right now, seems like too much bottom end. I just picked up a JP-2 and will try that out soon.
I spoke to the RB distributor about this motor and he said it is between s7 and c6. I was hoping this motor would feel like a S7 with good bottom. Top end has always been good with the S7 motors. After driving a guys 2.0 buggy with a dynamite motor on it, I'm over the "made in Asia" part. most if not all of these "cheap" motor seem to run very well. The good part is I'll buy it direct from the distributor since he's local so if somtething goes south its a quick drive to complain lol..

I would recommend using a heat gun to get some real heat into the motor. I'll probably preheat mine for the first gallon or until the pinch loosens up. otherwise the conrod is going to suffer and need replacement early into gallon 2. If the pinch is as tight as you guys say I would replace the rod if the motor starts blowing plugs. I plan to add a shim to avoid any high compression issues. My other RB motors (ws73 and c6) idle better when I reshimmed them even though they would run without the extra shims and I don't have any ghost flameout issues.

glad to hear everyone up and running. the upside to being a guinea pig is if it works, no one else will have what ur running. I'm hoping for a good 10 min motor so I'll be adding a exhaust cooler as well.
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Old 09-27-2009, 12:17 PM   #29
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Sorry I had not updated recently.

This engine was tight at first. I used a heat gun and wrapped the head to keep temps up. It really loosened up around tank 11. I used the heat cycle break in. I run the 2045 pipe with 192 header. I did get the 198 but so far have not needed it. I am running the #7 RB plug. It came with a #5 even though it says it came with #6. I ran this at a race yesterday and got 11 minutes run time. I am using a 6.5mm venturi 30% nitro 9%oil. My temps have been around 240F. It runs like a top. I will not go as far to say it has the bottom end of my c6 USA, but I put heavy clutch springs in and it helps give it that punch. For the money I am very pleased and would recommend.

The other thing on tuning is you might as well turn the screws in to start. It was very rich, almost unrunable. I will do better at keeping an eye on this thread sorry again for not following up sooner
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:43 PM   #30
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Sorry I had not updated recently.

This engine was tight at first. I used a heat gun and wrapped the head to keep temps up. It really loosened up around tank 11. I used the heat cycle break in. I run the 2045 pipe with 192 header. I did get the 198 but so far have not needed it. I am running the #7 RB plug. It came with a #5 even though it says it came with #6. I ran this at a race yesterday and got 11 minutes run time. I am using a 6.5mm venturi 30% nitro 9%oil. My temps have been around 240F. It runs like a top. I will not go as far to say it has the bottom end of my c6 USA, but I put heavy clutch springs in and it helps give it that punch. For the money I am very pleased and would recommend.

The other thing on tuning is you might as well turn the screws in to start. It was very rich, almost unrunable. I will do better at keeping an eye on this thread sorry again for not following up sooner
that's definitely good to hear. I wasn't expecting c6 USA performance down low, but more than a s7. good run time with acceptable temp. the temps may drop as more fuel is put through it. I plan to run the same combo, not sure of the plug I will run. i may stay with the stock restrictor to see how it does. may need the extra power since i'm running truggy. I take it no fuel leaks or carb sealing issues given the temps and run time.
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